I’m sort of new into the revolver world. I have a new no-lock Model 19. Any recommendations on a spring kit I can install myself? I don’t want have to do any real internal work like polishing, etc. I just want to install a kit and otherwise leave it stock.
Spring kit for a newbie
- Thread starter Wfevans4
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If all you want is a drop-in kit, I've had good luck with this one: Wilson Combat Spring Kit
When you're ready to do more, come on over to the Smithing forum and we'll introduce you to a whole new world.....
When you're ready to do more, come on over to the Smithing forum and we'll introduce you to a whole new world.....
oldrookey617
Member
If the trigger pull is smooth, you should not need to change the springs, just take it to the range a few trips, it will smooth out, the trigger pull lbs. will come down a couple lbs.. you can check under the hood to make sure its lubed good, may need a drop of Lucus gun oil on the moving parts, just my 2 cents. Good Luck..
Protocall_Design
Member
My preferred spring kit is also the Wilson Combat.
If you go below the mfgr suggested spring weight, that is a possibility. Some ammo uses hard primers, so a light strike is strong.
At Wolff Gunsprings, they have multiple spring kits for sale. Some offer lighter springs, some offer a lb or three heavier. The good news is, any spring swap isn't permanent. You can always go back or in a different direction.
Wolff makes their own springs, FWIW. They can also make springs for older guns as well. I've bought from them for decades.
If you're new to revolvers, be sure to use proper hollow ground screwdrivers. Brownells sells screwdriver bits specifically designed for S&W revolvers. Don't use standard screwdrivers from the hardware store because they can slip out of the screw heads, causing damage to the screw heads, and scratching your frame.
The screw under the cylinder is what keeps the yoke attached to the frame. Be careful when removing this screw because it has a spring and a detent inside. After you remove this screw, if you open the cylinder, you'll be able to slide the yoke forward off the frame. Then you'll be able to slide the cylinder rearward off the yoke. Try not to drop the cylinder, or you might bend the extractor rod. Keep the screws separated and don't mix them up.
Never pry the slide plate by sticking a screwdriver underneath. That can damage it. Instead, tap the grip area of the frame with something made of plastic or wood (like the handle of a screwdriver) until the side plate pops loose. Note that when the side plate pops loose, it may fall. So don't do this over a concrete floor. Also, don't lose the hammer block safety. Be sure to position the hammer block safety in its proper place when you reinstall the sideplate.
Never pull the trigger with the mainspring under tension while the sideplate is removed. That can damage the studs that the hammer or trigger pivot on, especially on an aluminum J frame. I'm not sure if it would damage a steel k frame, but I wouldn't risk it.
When removing and reinstalling the rebound slide, work with the entire gun in a gallon sized ziploc bag. The rebound slide is under considerable spring tension, and you don't want to lose the spring. Reinstalling the rebound slide can be very difficult if you don't have the correct tool. Brownells sells a tool specifically for removing and reinstalling the rebound slide.
When reinstalling the side plate, if it doesn't slide in evenly on all sides, don't force it by tightening the screws. Instead, remove the side plate as described above and check to see if anything is out of place. It's possible that the hammer block safety may be out of place and need to be repositioned before you try reinstalling the side plate.
I agree with the post above that a lot of range time will naturally smooth out the trigger for you.
Older S&W revolvers had 2 pins at the rear of the cylinder, and 2 corresponding holes in the extractor star, which ensured that the cylinder timing was correct by keeping the extractor star rigidly in place. That's because the hand in the frame interacts with the ratchets at the rear of the extractor star every time you pull the trigger.
Current S&W revolvers no longer have those pins. So if there is no ammo nor snap caps in the chambers, the extractor star can fit loosely in its cutout in the cylinder. So if you dry fire, be sure to use snap caps to keep the extractor star in its place.
The screw under the cylinder is what keeps the yoke attached to the frame. Be careful when removing this screw because it has a spring and a detent inside. After you remove this screw, if you open the cylinder, you'll be able to slide the yoke forward off the frame. Then you'll be able to slide the cylinder rearward off the yoke. Try not to drop the cylinder, or you might bend the extractor rod. Keep the screws separated and don't mix them up.
Never pry the slide plate by sticking a screwdriver underneath. That can damage it. Instead, tap the grip area of the frame with something made of plastic or wood (like the handle of a screwdriver) until the side plate pops loose. Note that when the side plate pops loose, it may fall. So don't do this over a concrete floor. Also, don't lose the hammer block safety. Be sure to position the hammer block safety in its proper place when you reinstall the sideplate.
Never pull the trigger with the mainspring under tension while the sideplate is removed. That can damage the studs that the hammer or trigger pivot on, especially on an aluminum J frame. I'm not sure if it would damage a steel k frame, but I wouldn't risk it.
When removing and reinstalling the rebound slide, work with the entire gun in a gallon sized ziploc bag. The rebound slide is under considerable spring tension, and you don't want to lose the spring. Reinstalling the rebound slide can be very difficult if you don't have the correct tool. Brownells sells a tool specifically for removing and reinstalling the rebound slide.
When reinstalling the side plate, if it doesn't slide in evenly on all sides, don't force it by tightening the screws. Instead, remove the side plate as described above and check to see if anything is out of place. It's possible that the hammer block safety may be out of place and need to be repositioned before you try reinstalling the side plate.
I agree with the post above that a lot of range time will naturally smooth out the trigger for you.
Older S&W revolvers had 2 pins at the rear of the cylinder, and 2 corresponding holes in the extractor star, which ensured that the cylinder timing was correct by keeping the extractor star rigidly in place. That's because the hand in the frame interacts with the ratchets at the rear of the extractor star every time you pull the trigger.
Current S&W revolvers no longer have those pins. So if there is no ammo nor snap caps in the chambers, the extractor star can fit loosely in its cutout in the cylinder. So if you dry fire, be sure to use snap caps to keep the extractor star in its place.
That is a distinct possibility, especially when shooting double action as the hammer is not drawn backwards as far in double action as it is in single action.
I've had good luck with Wolff spring kits, and I also viewed Jerry Miculek's videos for a trigger job and installation. I understand that Jerry has very good drop-in revolver spring kits, so that may be another option for you.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
Yes. When I was a cop, I knew a few people that made their revolvers into paperweights.
If it is just a Range Toy for plinking fun on the range go for it. For Self Protection or Home Defense I would not do it.
Like was pointed out earlier just shooting the new revolvers will smooth out. My 2018 production S&W 686 Plus had a great trigger right out of the box.
The reduced power main spring can lead to light strikes in some but not all gun's with the frame mounted firing pin. You'll have to try it to find out. I prefer the 14lb rebound spring but that is a personal choice. The lighter rebound spring won't affect primer strikes. Some people feel too light a rebound spring doesn't reset the trigger fast enough.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
Unless you're willing to play around with strain screw lengths or only use soft primers, leave the mainspring alone.
I installed the Wolff 'standard power' Powerib mainspring in my 686, and it had problems with light DA strikes on hard foreign primers, Magnum primers, and Winchester Winclean lead-free primers. It still sometimes happened with an extended Apex firing pin.
I eventually hillbilly gunsmithed (Dremel and whetstone grinding) an extended strain screw to the length that got me an 8.5 lb DA pull.
If you just want a slightly lighter trigger pull, I like 15 lb trigger rebound springs. 18 lb is typically stock in K/L/N frames. I find lighter than 15 lbs to result in reset that's a bit mushy for my liking.
Upon getting a new revolver, I like to pull the side plate for cleaning to get rid of any leftover metal grit/dust from manufacturing, re-oil (or oil, some revolvers come pretty dry), dry fire like a maniac for a week, then clean/oil again to get the break-in residue out.
I installed the Wolff 'standard power' Powerib mainspring in my 686, and it had problems with light DA strikes on hard foreign primers, Magnum primers, and Winchester Winclean lead-free primers. It still sometimes happened with an extended Apex firing pin.
I eventually hillbilly gunsmithed (Dremel and whetstone grinding) an extended strain screw to the length that got me an 8.5 lb DA pull.
If you just want a slightly lighter trigger pull, I like 15 lb trigger rebound springs. 18 lb is typically stock in K/L/N frames. I find lighter than 15 lbs to result in reset that's a bit mushy for my liking.
Upon getting a new revolver, I like to pull the side plate for cleaning to get rid of any leftover metal grit/dust from manufacturing, re-oil (or oil, some revolvers come pretty dry), dry fire like a maniac for a week, then clean/oil again to get the break-in residue out.
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I am not telling you that down the road you should not tweak your revolver if it still needs it, but do yourself and your gun a favor and shoot 1,000 rounds through it and loosen, smooth it and wear it in properly by actual use first. Then make a decision if springs and strain screw need to be changed. You might still want to do it, but maybe to a lesser value or extent. 1,000 rounds might seem like a lot, but in reality it's maybe 10 range sessions. Before changing anything, a wearing in and breaking in period is good to go through as parts, springs and the interaction between them wears in slightly different for each gun. ind of like breaking in a new pair of boots - each person's feet are different. That is also why when an old gun gets a new part it feels a little funny. It need to wear in to the already worn parts in the rest of the gun.
If and when you do change springs and or shorten the strain screw - ALWAYS retain the originals in a small bag in the original box and have them clearly marked as to what they are and which gun they are for. Play with an extra strain screw, not the original. Who knows, one day you might want to sell the gun and restore it to original factory spec's.
If and when you do change springs and or shorten the strain screw - ALWAYS retain the originals in a small bag in the original box and have them clearly marked as to what they are and which gun they are for. Play with an extra strain screw, not the original. Who knows, one day you might want to sell the gun and restore it to original factory spec's.
I agree with Chief38. Put 500 to 1000 rounds through it and most will smooth up very nicely. Possibly a 14 lb rebound spring, but leave the mainspring alone. Be very leery of the "ribbed" replacement springs. Most people using them have had to "play around a lot" with the strain screw. That is something for a very experienced gunsmith.
Lou_the_welder
Member
The mainspring might be the easiest spring to install , affecting mostly DA shooting. The rebound slide spring might be difficult for a newbie.
I would not replace springs on a self defense gun period. Just no way. The springs will make the gun fail. I've even seen stock springs fail past 1k rounds. And the usual culprit there are those ribbed performance center mainsprings.
I will echo what chief and Richard said above. At 1k rounds or so, the springs get weaker and have a better trigger feel .
I would not replace springs on a self defense gun period. Just no way. The springs will make the gun fail. I've even seen stock springs fail past 1k rounds. And the usual culprit there are those ribbed performance center mainsprings.
I will echo what chief and Richard said above. At 1k rounds or so, the springs get weaker and have a better trigger feel .
Pizza Bob
Member
I've used Wolff springs on several of my revolvers used for competition. They make kits that include a mainspring and several different weights of rebound springs.
Their mainsprings incorporate, what they call, a "Power Rib". It is an embossed rib down the length of the main spring. Smith has used these on some of the PC revolvers. What some people don't realize is that the strain screw bears on the mainspring right where the power rib is, thus effectively shortening the strain screw, which can lead to light strikes. If you use a Power Rib spring, whether standard or reduced power, you need to use an extended strain screw - which Wolff also, conveniently, sells.
If this is being done to lighten the trigger pull (and let me reiterate some of the former posters - only for range use / if for SD, let well enough alone), you can enhance your trigger job if you reload. You want to use Federal Primers, as they have the softest cup. You also want to deep-seat the primers below flush - this pre-loads the anvil and it, therefore, takes less impact to cause ignition.
Good luck with your new endeavor.
Adios,
Pizza Bob
Their mainsprings incorporate, what they call, a "Power Rib". It is an embossed rib down the length of the main spring. Smith has used these on some of the PC revolvers. What some people don't realize is that the strain screw bears on the mainspring right where the power rib is, thus effectively shortening the strain screw, which can lead to light strikes. If you use a Power Rib spring, whether standard or reduced power, you need to use an extended strain screw - which Wolff also, conveniently, sells.
If this is being done to lighten the trigger pull (and let me reiterate some of the former posters - only for range use / if for SD, let well enough alone), you can enhance your trigger job if you reload. You want to use Federal Primers, as they have the softest cup. You also want to deep-seat the primers below flush - this pre-loads the anvil and it, therefore, takes less impact to cause ignition.
Good luck with your new endeavor.
Adios,
Pizza Bob
Protocall_Design
Member
No. It's the cycling and flexing that does that, not a static position. If you bend it to a new shape, that will alter it.
