3913 Recoil Spring

RichieMac

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Has anyone ran into any issue with recoil spring length? I recently purchased a 3913 replacement recoil spring from MidwayUSA and found it to be 3/4" longer than the one original that I am replacing in the gun. I can get the longer one to seat, but obviously is a lot stiffer to make it fit. Since I bought the gun used and have no way of knowing how many rounds have been fired I wanted to replace. I also have no way of knowing if the original (to me) wasn't replaced with a lighter weight/shorter spring at some point. Does anyone know the correct spring length for the 3913? The one I took out of the gun is 3-7/8" and the one from Midway is 4-5/8". Thanks in advance for any help!!
 

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Has anyone ran into any issue with recoil spring length? I recently purchased a 3913 replacement recoil spring from MidwayUSA and found it to be 3/4" longer than the one original that I am replacing in the gun. I can get the longer one to seat, but obviously is a lot stiffer to make it fit. Since I bought the gun used and have no way of knowing how many rounds have been fired I wanted to replace. I also have no way of knowing if the original (to me) wasn't replaced with a lighter weight/shorter spring at some point. Does anyone know the correct spring length for the 3913? The one I took out of the gun is 3-7/8" and the one from Midway is 4-5/8". Thanks in advance for any help!
You needn’t concern yourself much with 3913 recoil spring length, unless it’s simply too long (bunching up to prevent complete slide travel when fully compressed). More important is its strength. The 3913’s soft aluminum frame is somewhat subject to battering, causing peening where the barrel seats when the action is open. Wolff Gunsprings advises that the 3913 factory standard recoil spring strength is 15 pounds. Because I often carry my 3913 loaded with Gold Dot 124gr +P ammo, I installed a Wolff extra strength 17 pound recoil spring to limit frame battering.

But, the most important considerations are cycling reliability and where the empties land. Assuming 100% cycling reliability with the ammo of choice, if the empties are launched toward the next county, the recoil spring is too weak. But, if the empties topple out of the ejection port and land at the feet, the recoil spring is too strong for anything other than strictly range use. Cases consistently landing about 6 feet out are pretty good indication of correct recoil spring strength.
 
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Has anyone ran into any issue with recoil spring length? I recently purchased a 3913 replacement recoil spring from MidwayUSA and found it to be 3/4" longer than the one original that I am replacing in the gun. I can get the longer one to seat, but obviously is a lot stiffer to make it fit. Since I bought the gun used and have no way of knowing how many rounds have been fired I wanted to replace. I also have no way of knowing if the original (to me) wasn't replaced with a lighter weight/shorter spring at some point. Does anyone know the correct spring length for the 3913? The one I took out of the gun is 3-7/8" and the one from Midway is 4-5/8". Thanks in advance for any help!!
I have never had any problem with recoil or magazine springs from Midway - they are generally SW parts with SW part number in ordering info. I would check the package label description and numbers to make sure you got what you ordered but most likely you are seeing the permanent compression set in the spring due to its time in service. New springs are typically longer than used springs. Count / compare the number of coils to confirm.
 
I have a 6906 and a 6946, bought both as used firearms. I bought S&W springs from Midway and the new springs were longer than the ones in the pistols. With a used pistol, you have no idea how long the springs have been in the pistol nor how many rounds have been fired, so it is best to replace the recoil springs before shooting. Coil springs will take an initial set, then slowly loose pressure and grow shorter with repeated compression and relaxation cycles.
 
This is the reason that any new to me 3rd Gen gets a new recoil spring. 3rd Gen magazines that I plan to carry for self defesnes also get new springs. Cheap insurance in my opinion.



I have a 6906 and a 6946, bought both as used firearms. I bought S&W springs from Midway and the new springs were longer than the ones in the pistols. With a used pistol, you have no idea how long the springs have been in the pistol nor how many rounds have been fired, so it is best to replace the recoil springs before shooting. Coil springs will take an initial set, then slowly loose pressure and grow shorter with repeated compression and relaxation cycles.
 
Aluminum guns are meant to be shot little and carried much.
 
Because I often carry my 3913 loaded with Gold Dot 124gr +P ammo, I installed a Wolff extra strength 17 pound recoil spring to limit frame battering.

Maybe I’m misunderstanding, but wouldn’t the hammer spring be the one with more control over the slide battering the frame, so a heavier hammer spring would be what you need? While the recoil spring plays a part, its main function is to drive the slide back forward and chamber a round, whereas the rearward energy is used to cock the hammer for the next round. They work in tandem for sure, but two pounds on the recoil spring is negligible in terms of recoil dampening vs two pounds on the hammer spring.
 
There are numerous 3rd Gen owners and shooters, including S&W factory trained LE armorers who disagree. Some have fired thousands of rounds out of their alloy framed guns with no issues. Proper maintenance is the key.

Aluminum guns are meant to be shot little and carried much.
 
Maybe I’m misunderstanding, but wouldn’t the hammer spring be the one with more control over the slide battering the frame, so a heavier hammer spring would be what you need? While the recoil spring plays a part, its main function is to drive the slide back forward and chamber a round, whereas the rearward energy is used to cock the hammer for the next round. They work in tandem for sure, but two pounds on the recoil spring is negligible in terms of recoil dampening vs two pounds on the hammer spring.
Some of what you say is absolutely correct. But, I believe you may be drawing incorrect conclusions.

Increased hammer spring strength tends to work against the slide most at the very beginning of slide movement, and can retard unlocking (if that is desired for other reasons). But, once the hammer has been cocked by the slide, the hammer spring can play no further significant role in slowing slide velocity. The trouble is, increased hammer spring strength will almost certainly increase the first shot double action trigger pull weight unnecessarily.

On the other hand, increased recoil spring strength continues to act against slide velocity for the entire length of the slide’s travel, gradually slowing the slide until it finally contacts its stop at the end of its travel.

So, because the barrel seats down against the frame fairly early in the the process, the force with which it does that can be moderated by increasing the strength of the hammer spring, the strength of the recoil spring, or a little of both. But, in order to keep the double action trigger pull weight down to a user-friendly level, the recoil spring would seem to be the better choice for controlling slide velocity by increasing its strength. Plus, the recoil spring is slightly more conveniently exchanged than is the hammer spring.

Two side benefits of using an increased strength recoil spring are:
1. You need not wander quite as far to recover ejected cases (if you reload).
2. More of the recoil impulse to the shooting hand is spread out over a longer time, making it feel a bit less sharp.
 
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There are numerous 3rd Gen owners and shooters, including S&W factory trained LE armorers who disagree. Some have fired thousands of rounds out of their alloy framed guns with no issues. Proper maintenance is the key.
I don't wish to discredit anyone's personal experience. I have 2 Para Hawg nines purchased for BUG gun competition. The primary gun experienced the elongation of the slide stop hole after approximately 5000 rounds. If you pound on aluminum (even 7075) with a hardened piece of steel long enough, the aluminum will yield. The only modification to the gun for competition was tuning of the sear spring to reduce the trigger pull.
 
Early Colt Commander's were that way, but S&W's aluminum receivers will, with proper maintenance, survive many tens of thousands of rounds of full power ammo.
With all due respect, how many handguns have you observed with MANY 10s of 1000s of rounds?
 
I bow to your expertise in a model of firearm you don't seem to own or have any experience with. I'll just go ahead and ignore the experience of people who shot and repaired them for a living.

I don't wish to discredit anyone's personal experience. I have 2 Para Hawg nines purchased for BUG gun competition. The primary gun experienced the elongation of the slide stop hole after approximately 5000 rounds. If you pound on aluminum (even 7075) with a hardened piece of steel long enough, the aluminum will yield. The only modification to the gun for competition was tuning of the sear spring to reduce the trigger pull.
 
I bow to your expertise in a model of firearm you don't seem to own or have any experience with. I'll just go ahead and ignore the experience of people who shot and repaired them for a living.
It's a free country.
 
With all due respect, how many handguns have you observed with MANY 10s of 1000s of rounds?
"With all due respect", that is how you start a conversation when you have no respect for the other person's opinions, views, knowledge, or experience, so thank you. Obviously, my 37 years of experience with owning and shooting S&W aluminum receiver 9mm pistols means nothing.
 
It seems to me that you might be the one being dismissive of other's opinions and knowledge. I think my question of "how many handguns have you encountered with many 10s of 1000s of rounds?" is relevant to the conversation. Your response is that I don't respect your 37 years of experience. You seem to be taking offense to any opinion other than your own. If it's considered relevant, I have 35 years of experience in shooting, reloading, gunsmithing and competition. I've been involved in parts design and fabrication for TK Custom, Apex Tactical, CZ Custom, MBX Extreme, Langdon Tactical and my own HearthCo Moonclips.
 
It seems to me that you might be the one being dismissive of other's opinions and knowledge. I think my question of "how many handguns have you encountered with many 10s of 1000s of rounds?" is relevant to the conversation. Your response is that I don't respect your 37 years of experience. You seem to be taking offense to any opinion other than your own. If it's considered relevant, I have 35 years of experience in shooting, reloading, gunsmithing and competition. I've been involved in parts design and fabrication for TK Custom, Apex Tactical, CZ Custom, MBX Extreme, Langdon Tactical and my own HearthCo Moonclips.
That's nice, but how many aluminum receiver S&W pistols have you owned and shot? I've had a total of four, so far, and never a wear problem with them. No, I've not shot 60,000 rounds through any of them, unlike at least one other forum member, I simply do not have that kind of money nor time and I likely never will, but in my experience, the S&W's were designed around an aluminum receiver and hold up very well.
 
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