One of my CCW handguns will be my Model 65-3, 3 inch. Should I switch out the hammer for a Bobbed hammer? Or leave it stock? I'm not planning on cutting down the original hammer. Just finding another one bobbed already, or bobbing it myself, and fitting it. My plan is I.W.B. strong side or possibley I.W.B. appendix carry. Also, any holster recommendations would be appreciated for this. Thanks for any input.
Finally obtained my CCW. Bobbed hammer or leave it stock? Model 65-3, 3 inch.
- Thread starter c good
- Start date
ericherte
Member
One of my favorites. 13-3 hard chromed.
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2006
- Messages
- 8,396
- Reaction score
- 8,470
I've got 2 bobbed J frames. I keep meaning to replace the hammers. I realize this goes against the grain, but the IAD for many revolver malfunctions (yes, they do happen) is to give the hammer spur a hardy yank. No spur, no IAD-except dropping it and going for the backup. The one mod I do like is removing the SA notch on the hammer. It needs to be carefully and correctly done if you can't find a factory DAO hammer.
I hate to say it - but it depends. Try it with the existing hammer and practice your draws from the position you choose and with the clothes you typically wear. Make a decision after that.
I usually carry a 2" barrel 637, with the stock hammer, and have become accustomed to placing my thumb appropriately when I draw. I have no plan to replace my 637, but if I ever did then I'd probably get a 642. My other common CCW is a 3" 686 and I cover the hammer with my thumb the same way. Works fine.
I carry AIWB. The L Frame rides in a JM Custom Kydex holster. I like it.
Best of luck.
I usually carry a 2" barrel 637, with the stock hammer, and have become accustomed to placing my thumb appropriately when I draw. I have no plan to replace my 637, but if I ever did then I'd probably get a 642. My other common CCW is a 3" 686 and I cover the hammer with my thumb the same way. Works fine.
I carry AIWB. The L Frame rides in a JM Custom Kydex holster. I like it.
Best of luck.
Last edited:
I carry a few different revolvers. A 442 (no hammer), a 637 (hammer) and a Taurus 856 with a factory bobbed hammer. I've never had a problem drawing any of them. If you're worried about the hammer snagging on something, learn to draw with your thumb on top of the hammer and then let it slide down naturally as you make your grip on it.
It's your firearm, do what you want/need to; but I would leave it stock.
It's your firearm, do what you want/need to; but I would leave it stock.
I left the hammer intact on my 66-2 3” RB. I’ve only ever carried it cross draw in a cutdown Triple K 671.
From my point of view a 442, 642 or 340PD is the way to go. J frames are meant to be fired DA in a deadly force encounter. Having a snag free design is advantageous. The thumb covering the hammer does work, mostly. But will it work when adrenaline is leaking out your ears. Maybe. Do you really want a maybe in that type of situation. Maybe you're rolling around on the ground fighting just to get a grip on your weapon. Do you really think under those conditions you'll make a clean draw?
imashooter2
Member
There’s always the M38…
Great looking gun, and it is nice to see I'm not the only one who paints the front sight neon green.
As to installing a bobbed hammer, my experience was this. I loved and carried my Mod 65's for years and always wanted to bob the hammer on one but never did. Even though I always practiced firing DA, I heard the "someday you'll need to cock the hammer for an accurate shot" mentality in my head and never went with a bobbed hammer. When I found a 3" Mod 64 with a bobbed hammer I bought it. It became my off-duty concealed carry and I was quite happy with it.
If you are interested in the idea of a bobbed hammer on your Mod 65, I would recommend you follow your plans and get a bobbed hammer and switch them out. I will bet you'll be quite happy with it.
Pizza Bob
Member
I prefer bobbed and I carry my 65-5 OWB in a pancake style holster. Would think a bobbed hammer would be even more important for your mode of carry.
Adios,
Pizza Bob
Adios,
Pizza Bob
My 65-3 is my edc and I had it bobbed 30 years ago. I carry it iwb strong side with a clip Clip Draw.
Another vote for bobbed for a fixed sight CCW...
Last edited:
I have been carrying concealed for decades. My policy for life support has been, find a Stock Handgun with a reliable reputation. Put hundreds of rounds through it to establish reliability and proficiency and practice with it on a fairly regular basis.
If you feel comfortable betting your life on your gunsmithing OK.
Ive carried with both types of hammers. Personal choice on any given day.
If you feel comfortable betting your life on your gunsmithing OK.
Ive carried with both types of hammers. Personal choice on any given day.
Last edited:
My 3" 65 is bobbed since 1986, carried mostly in a Milt Sparks Summer Special.
My 3" 66 is stock/un-bobbed
My 3" 66 is stock/un-bobbed
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2023
- Messages
- 3,632
- Reaction score
- 5,450
- City & State/Province
- American Legion Post 1
My cop experience says leave it stock.
You plan on IWB but eventually you will find with revolvers the OWB is a better choice. Also I go with a thumb snap for retention.
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2024
- Messages
- 689
- Reaction score
- 760
Personally, I would not switch out the hammer for a bobbed one. I have had the exact same gun that I’ve had for 34 years, and never had an issue with the original hammer. Try El Paso Saddlery for holsters. Their holsters hug the gun and offer slight resistance being pulled out.
Forsmithers
Member
WR Moore,
Can you explain the hardy hank on the hammer spur? I thought the immediate action drill on a revolver was to press the trigger again if it doesn’t fire. Either way, the hammer going back is rotating the cylinder. And pressing the trigger will hopefully fire the next cartridge in the rotation while only thumbing the hammer will cock the hammer and require an extra extra step in pressing the trigger to drop the cocked hammer.
unrepentedsinner
Member
rockquarry
Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2005
- Messages
- 11,048
- Reaction score
- 14,167
I know it's popular conventional (flawed) wisdom and bobbed hammers look neat, but... they solve no problem. As a test, try carrying (anyway you like) a revolver with an unmolested hammer for five years, then carry one with a bobbed hammer for five years. Make note of "snags" with each. The answer will surprise you. Also check into how many experienced revolver shooters carry a gun with a bobbed hammer. That might surprise you, too.
crasig
Member
I will not own a DA only revolver for obvious reasons. I do understand the hammer spur snagging clothes argument. The above type with the shrouded hammer is a sensible way to have SA/DA in a concealed revolver. I own a Taurus Clone in .357. For personal C.C. I prefer my Russian Makarov, or smaller Polish P-64 (both tweaked) - Over the Heavier Chunky Revolvers. I would not carry a semi-auto pistol that was not 100% reliable, & am confident with my choices.There's always the M38…
Attachments
Exchipy
Member
If you've ever had a revolver cylinder bind while shooting double action (extremely rare, but I have), aggressively thumbing back the hammer can effectively force past whatever's binding the cylinder and get you the next shot, emergency quick. Bobbing off the hammer spur denies you that option. But, because I detest the pointy sharp corners of the stock M65 narrow hammer, I swapped mine out for a M66 hammer:
Also, the hammer spur provides the necessary something for a shoulder holster retention strap to hold onto, as with the Galco Miami Classic I use when I must keep the gun's weight away from my occasionally uppity sciatic nerve.
However, though I like having the single action option, I shoot a revolver almost exclusively double action, even out to 50 yards.
Also, the hammer spur provides the necessary something for a shoulder holster retention strap to hold onto, as with the Galco Miami Classic I use when I must keep the gun's weight away from my occasionally uppity sciatic nerve.
However, though I like having the single action option, I shoot a revolver almost exclusively double action, even out to 50 yards.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2006
- Messages
- 8,396
- Reaction score
- 8,470
Exchipy provide a good summary. When you go to pull the trigger, it may not move. There are a slew of reasons this will happen: the trigger didn't fully return for some reason (part of your glove is caught between frame & trigger/internal problem), a cratered primer has extruded into the firing pin hole, a swollen case is jammed against the breech face, etc. The sure cure-unless you've got a bullet stuck between cylinder and forcing cone-is to give a hefty yank on the hammer spur. That'll usually solve the problem. If not, what's your plan B?
When we were revolver armed, we shot 681's (a whole lot) with Federal 125 gr Magnum JHPs as the only ammo. Issues happened that our S&W Academy trained instructors never covered (cause revolvers always work). One example: during (no excuses except gun failure) qualification I had the extractor rod refuse to move and the speed loader already in the other hand. Fortunately, we were at the 25 yard barricade, so I whacked the rod against the barricade to clear the cylinder. Afterward, I found one empty with a FLAT primer and a firing pin indent you could barely see. If I hadn't cleared it, I'd have failed qualification. On duty, probably worse.
When we were revolver armed, we shot 681's (a whole lot) with Federal 125 gr Magnum JHPs as the only ammo. Issues happened that our S&W Academy trained instructors never covered (cause revolvers always work). One example: during (no excuses except gun failure) qualification I had the extractor rod refuse to move and the speed loader already in the other hand. Fortunately, we were at the 25 yard barricade, so I whacked the rod against the barricade to clear the cylinder. Afterward, I found one empty with a FLAT primer and a firing pin indent you could barely see. If I hadn't cleared it, I'd have failed qualification. On duty, probably worse.
Last edited:
Lt.Donn
Member
- Joined
- May 21, 2025
- Messages
- 402
- Reaction score
- 653
Very nice LS...if I was fortunate enough to acquire one, I'd send it to bill laughridge for install of his Novak style rear sight and mate to a green FO front...but opinions will differI prefer bobbed and I carry my 65-5 OWB in a pancake style holster. Would think a bobbed hammer would be even more important for your mode of carry.
Adios,
Pizza Bob
Another approach is to install S&W K frame Bianchi Lightning rubber grips that shield the hammer, similar design to the S&W M-38 and M-49. Unless it's going to be pocket carry which isn't very likely with a 3" steel K frame the chances of the hammer snagging on clothing is minimal.
I wanted to try a bobbed hammer on my Model 36 for ease of draw but I was not willing to give up the single action capability. I found a used hammer in good condition, bobbed the hammer and filed grooves along the top of the hammer with a diamond file.
I am able to cock the hammer by using the old technique of pulling the trigger slightly and then hooking my thumb over the top of the hammer. Skeeter Skelton described this technique. You can decock in the normal manner.
This technique is not for everyone, obviously. Keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. I would never attempt this maneuver in an emergency or in a hurry. It allows you to make a precision shot when you have the time. I understand if some members would never consider doing this and hope that this thread won't veer off on that track too far.
I replicated the case coloring with the "WD-40 method." Apply a thin wash of cold blue then heat the hammer with a heat gun and, when it is good and hot, spray WD-40 on the hammer.
I am able to cock the hammer by using the old technique of pulling the trigger slightly and then hooking my thumb over the top of the hammer. Skeeter Skelton described this technique. You can decock in the normal manner.
This technique is not for everyone, obviously. Keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. I would never attempt this maneuver in an emergency or in a hurry. It allows you to make a precision shot when you have the time. I understand if some members would never consider doing this and hope that this thread won't veer off on that track too far.
I replicated the case coloring with the "WD-40 method." Apply a thin wash of cold blue then heat the hammer with a heat gun and, when it is good and hot, spray WD-40 on the hammer.
Attachments
I too suggest leaving the hammer alone. If you want a hammer less pocket wheel gun the J’s are fine. For anything other than pocket a regular hammer has always worked just fine for me. Even my pocket wheelgun is a 38 series with the shrouded, but still usable hammer.
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2001
- Messages
- 11,848
- Reaction score
- 19,712
- City & State/Province
- In The Woods Of S.C.
DON"T BUTCHER your gun.......It ain't worth it, and accomplishes little...........
