Finally obtained my CCW. Bobbed hammer or leave it stock? Model 65-3, 3 inch.

[unrepentedsinner]

Carrying a 642 for years but I recently returned to a model 10-5 4" standard barrel just for the joy of it carried OWB in a bianchi open top so as someone said earlier practice , practice more, besides being fun you'll be proficient with your choice

 

[rockquarry]

I know it's popular conventional (flawed) wisdom and bobbed hammers look neat, but... they solve no problem. As a test, try carrying (anyway you like) a revolver with an unmolested hammer for five years, then carry one with a bobbed hammer for five years. Make note of "snags" with each. The answer will surprise you. Also check into how many experienced revolver shooters carry a gun with a bobbed hammer. That might surprise you, too.

 

[crasig]

There's always the M38…

I will not own a DA only revolver for obvious reasons. I do understand the hammer spur snagging clothes argument. The above type with the shrouded hammer is a sensible way to have SA/DA in a concealed revolver. I own a Taurus Clone in .357. For personal C.C. I prefer my Russian Makarov, or smaller Polish P-64 (both tweaked) - Over the Heavier Chunky Revolvers. I would not carry a semi-auto pistol that was not 100% reliable, & am confident with my choices.

 

[Exchipy]

If you've ever had a revolver cylinder bind while shooting double action (extremely rare, but I have), aggressively thumbing back the hammer can effectively force past whatever's binding the cylinder and get you the next shot, emergency quick. Bobbing off the hammer spur denies you that option. But, because I detest the pointy sharp corners of the stock M65 narrow hammer, I swapped mine out for a M66 hammer:



Also, the hammer spur provides the necessary something for a shoulder holster retention strap to hold onto, as with the Galco Miami Classic I use when I must keep the gun's weight away from my occasionally uppity sciatic nerve.

However, though I like having the single action option, I shoot a revolver almost exclusively double action, even out to 50 yards.

 

[WR Moore]

Exchipy provide a good summary. When you go to pull the trigger, it may not move. There are a slew of reasons this will happen: the trigger didn't fully return for some reason (part of your glove is caught between frame & trigger/internal problem), a cratered primer has extruded into the firing pin hole, a swollen case is jammed against the breech face, etc. The sure cure-unless you've got a bullet stuck between cylinder and forcing cone-is to give a hefty yank on the hammer spur. That'll usually solve the problem. If not, what's your plan B?

When we were revolver armed, we shot 681's (a whole lot) with Federal 125 gr Magnum JHPs as the only ammo. Issues happened that our S&W Academy trained instructors never covered (cause revolvers always work). One example: during (no excuses except gun failure) qualification I had the extractor rod refuse to move and the speed loader already in the other hand. Fortunately, we were at the 25 yard barricade, so I whacked the rod against the barricade to clear the cylinder. Afterward, I found one empty with a FLAT primer and a firing pin indent you could barely see. If I hadn't cleared it, I'd have failed qualification. On duty, probably worse.

 

[Lt.Donn]

I prefer bobbed and I carry my 65-5 OWB in a pancake style holster. Would think a bobbed hammer would be even more important for your mode of carry.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

Very nice LS...if I was fortunate enough to acquire one, I'd send it to bill laughridge for install of his Novak style rear sight and mate to a green FO front...but opinions will differ

 

[majick47]

Another approach is to install S&W K frame Bianchi Lightning rubber grips that shield the hammer, similar design to the S&W M-38 and M-49. Unless it's going to be pocket carry which isn't very likely with a 3" steel K frame the chances of the hammer snagging on clothing is minimal.

 

[AEM]

I wanted to try a bobbed hammer on my Model 36 for ease of draw but I was not willing to give up the single action capability. I found a used hammer in good condition, bobbed the hammer and filed grooves along the top of the hammer with a diamond file.
I am able to cock the hammer by using the old technique of pulling the trigger slightly and then hooking my thumb over the top of the hammer. Skeeter Skelton described this technique. You can decock in the normal manner.

This technique is not for everyone, obviously. Keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. I would never attempt this maneuver in an emergency or in a hurry. It allows you to make a precision shot when you have the time. I understand if some members would never consider doing this and hope that this thread won't veer off on that track too far.

I replicated the case coloring with the "WD-40 method." Apply a thin wash of cold blue then heat the hammer with a heat gun and, when it is good and hot, spray WD-40 on the hammer.

 

[Shibadog]

I too suggest leaving the hammer alone. If you want a hammer less pocket wheel gun the J's are fine. For anything other than pocket a regular hammer has always worked just fine for me. Even my pocket wheelgun is a 38 series with the shrouded, but still usable hammer.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

DON"T BUTCHER your gun.......It ain't worth it, and accomplishes little...........

 

[rockquarry]

I too suggest leaving the hammer alone. If you want a hammer less pocket wheel gun the J's are fine. For anything other than pocket a regular hammer has always worked just fine for me. Even my pocket wheelgun is a 38 series with the shrouded, but still usable hammer.

Good advice, but the fast draw guys think an unmolested hammer will slow them down or snag on something. Very unlikely. Or maybe a bobbed hammer is indicative of the inexperienced concealed carry hobbyist? Thoughts on that-

 

[45Smashemflat]

I wanted to try a bobbed hammer on my Model 36 for ease of draw but I was not willing to give up the single action capability. I found a used hammer in good condition, bobbed the hammer and filed grooves along the top of the hammer with a diamond file.
I am able to cock the hammer by using the old technique of pulling the trigger slightly and then hooking my thumb over the top of the hammer. Skeeter Skelton described this technique. You can decock in the normal manner.

This technique is not for everyone, obviously. Keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. I would never attempt this maneuver in an emergency or in a hurry. It allows you to make a precision shot when you have the time. I understand if some members would never consider doing this and hope that this thread won't veer off on that track too far.

I replicated the case coloring with the "WD-40 method." Apply a thin wash of cold blue then heat the hammer with a heat gun and, when it is good and hot, spray WD-40 on the hammer.

I did something similar to my 337. It is primarily a pockets carried J frame, and I did find that the hammer spur would snag occasionally while drawing from a pocket.

For S&W "factory" bobbed hammers, may I assume that they are also DAO, since they would most likely not want the liability of trying to operate them in single action?