Reloading the .40 S&W

epj

epj

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I am about to add the .40 S&W to my reloading inventory. I don't see a lot of posts on this forum on the .40, and at the local range the amount of .40 brass on the ground in relation to all other calibers leads me to one of two conclusions: (a). not many folks reload .40, or (b). .40 is so popular that the reloaders pick up all they want and there is still a ton of it left.:D

Anyway, I am planning to use 175 gr. cast bullets. I'll probably use either Clays or Universal for powder. For lighter loads Clays will no doubt get the nod. It works great in .45 and I have a ton of it on hand.

I have ordered the Lee deluxe die set with the factory crimp die, and also a Lee six cavity mold for the bullets. As soon as Dillon gets to work this morning, I'll order a caliber conversion for my 550. I looked at my Lyman manual to see if there were any comments out of the ordinary concerning the .40 and didn't se any. Is there anything I need to look out for regarding the .40 that differs from .45 ACP or 9mm?
 
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For "range trash brass" that I pick up after a match, .40 S&W brass has the most problems with swolen heads and "Glocked" cases. You can use a push-through resizer, or just put the rejects in the scrap brass bucket, but inspect the cases carefully.

Depending on the individual pistol, I find light loads in .40 S&W can cause cycling problems with stock recoil springs.

For USPSA major power, I have chosen to use FMJ 180gr with Titegroup for max reliability and accuracy. The plated or lead work well for me for minor power .40 (usually requires lighter recoil spring).
 
It depends on what gun you are shooting, for Glocks stick to the minimum load or starting grains. You don't want to blow up that plastic gun. I use 155gr with Unique and it seems to work good in any gun I have including the Glock. I have never had a cycling issue with any of my reloads.
 
There is a huge amount of 40 range brass available, you find a lot of LE using 40 that don't reload. I use 170-175gr LSWC with Universal, 4.8grs will make major in my guns. I've never had good results with faster powders like Clays or Red Dot in the 40, always went with Universal or Unique. The 40 is a high pressure cartridge, twice the pressure of 45s' so loading doesn't work the same with most powders.
 
175 FP 3.0 TITEGROUP 675
175 FP 3.2 TITEGROUP 755 1.135
175 FP 3.4 TITEGROUP 775 1.135
175 FP 3.6 TITEGROUP 800 1.135
175 FP 3.8 TITEGROUP 838 1.135
175 FP 4.0 TITEGROUP 886 1.135
175 FP 4.2 TITEGROUP 955 1.135
175 FP 4.5 TITEGROUP 965 1.135

These are some of the loads I use in my full size M&P they all cycle.

I always try to pick up only my brass.
 
I am loading .40 S&W for IDPA.

180 Gr Bullet cast from a Magma mold and WW
2.9 Grains of Clays
WSP primer
Range Brass.

PF 135 ( 750 FPSX 180 Gr Bullet = 135
out of My glock 35 with an after market Storm Lake barrel. I m using stock springs

I run all my range pick up brass throught a EWG "U" die before I dump them in my 650.

Besides removing any bulges I can inspect each case to insure there are no 9MM brass, Rocks Etc hiding in the cases that would hang up the Dillon 650.
 
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Two things that are NOT going to go together in any of my handguns again are Clays and the 40S&W!

One KB is enough and I'm not the only one to experience one with that combination. Unsupported chambers NEED a slower powder. One that gives less pressure. For me and my Glock 22 that means SR4756. Longshot has some better data in that regard but I haven't experimented with it much yet.

Universal may work, it is in the right burn rate area for me, just never did anything with it.
 
Good morning
I have several brands 40 S&W. I use a 180 gr Truncated nose (LEE pure WW) in all of them. I use primarily Acc#5 and will do so until I run out. I have used Unique and it worked just fine.
I like the 180 simply because that is what I will use for everything. I personally think I am better off using for practice, hunting, competition... that same load alsways. Confidence is a HUGE factor in all moments of handgunning.
 
I have used Glocked 40 S&W brass for light reloads in my S&W 646, STI Trojan, CZ-40B and PO16-40. I use either WST or American Select with 155 to 180 gr. plated or jacketed bullets for about 725 to 750 fps - my semi autos required lighter recoil springs to function reliably. At one time I did use cast elad bullets in those same guns at the same velocities. I reload the 40S&W brass 4 times before tossing it into the scrap heap. I use a normal Lee carbide die set and Dillon 550 for my 40 S&W reloading.
 
I use HP-38 and 170gr lead SWCs for reloading .40, I load a pretty middle of the road load with it and get good results cycles the slide on my M&P .40 fine but I have yet to find anything that wouldn't cycle it. My uncle uses the exact same load in his Sig and also has no trouble out of it.
 
As obliquely mentioned, buy and use a trim/resize die on all .40 s&w range brass. I wouldn't waste time actually trimming the .40 but the resize is an absolute necessity IMHO. ....... Big Cholla
 
I don't have a .40 S&W, but my buddy shoots an M&P in the caliber. The only thing he reloads is 165gr jacketed bullets (currently Montana Gold) over a starting load of Hodgdon Universal (from the Speer #14 manual). In his words, "If it's perfect, why mess around?"
 
Don't use Clays

I have been handloading the .40 S&W since shortly after it was originated. Clays is way TOO FAST a powder for the .40. Many years ago Todd Jarrett gave me some of his competition ammo to try out. It was loaded with Clays powder and bulged the new Winchester cases even though the load didn't make major power factor. Just think what may happen with used brass. Try TiteGroup instead.
 
Keep in mind, the .40 runs at much higher pressures than .45 ACP. As others have mentioned, powder as fast as Clays is not the best. When I shot a .40 as my Limited Class USPSA gun, I experimented with several powders, loading both 220 gr. cast bullets and 180 gr. FMJs. AA #5 worked well, and even Unique wasn't bad, but I like Viht N-340 best of the three.
 
I guess I'll probably start with Universal. I have never been able to warm up to tightgroup and cast bullets. Seems like it burns too hot.
Despite the difficulties of others, I will probably try some Clays also. Bear in mind I'm going to be loading relatively low pressure plinking ammo and only looking for enough velocity to reliably cycle the action. No power factors to meet.
 
Hodgdon Titegroup

All my 40 S&W brass is range pickup. No problems because I use a Lee Carbide crimp die in my Dillon 450 (updated). Read an article a year ago that Clays was too fast and Titegroup did everything just right. Hodgdon web site gives excellent data.

Happy shooting.
 
Epj, you might be okay with Clays if you stay with really wimpy loads. I have friends who load Viht N-310 in their .40s, behind 155gr. bullets, for use in IDPA matches where they know they won't get chronoed. (Yes, I sometimes run with a shady crowd.) N-310 is a few notches faster than Clays. I've shot some of them, and it's about like shooting a .22 WMR.

Be careful, though. One of the reasons so many .40s have kaboomed over the years has been reloads that had insufficient neck tension or crimp, allowing the bullet to get pushed back in the case deeply enough to dramatically increase pressures. Case capacity in .40 S&W is not a lot, anyway, and it doesn't take a whole lot of reduction to spike pressures.
 
I've been loading 40 S&W since it first came out in 1990. Man, brass was hard to find the first few years! 10 mm was everywhere. How times have changed.

I experimented with a lot of powders but settled on WSF long ago. I haven't had any problems with that powder and some of my brass is still in use from that time frame. However, I don't shoot Glocks, only HK and S&W. WSF gives a good loading density advantage, but a solid neck crimp is still needed to prevent bullet setback.
 
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