Model 67 Issue

[Bucsbilly]

So I have always loved Smith & Wesson K framed revolvers but due to some health issues and a divorce I no longer owned one. I decided to rectify this grave mistake and found a Model 67 I really liked.

The good: the Model 67 no dash came with beautiful stag/bone grips, original box, original wax paper, original manual, original warranty card, still has tight lockup. The serial number is 6K58xxx.

The bad: had to buy it. Jokes aside I am not sure what a fair price is for this firearm so I would appreciate the groups take on what a reasonable price for a comparable firearm would be.

The ugly: someone scratched in “P-29” into the gun in two places, and did so poorly.

I don’t know why they did so, what the significance is, but it is painful to look at - pictures attached.

So this is my first posting here and I was hoping for info on :
1) Age of the gun
2) do the stag grips/box/wax paper/manual/warranty card adds value, approximate value of the gun and accessories.
3) Most importantly any thoughts on how to possibly buff or polish this marking out without damaging the gun.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated and thanks for letting me join this forum!

Thanks!

 

[71vette]

Very good choice, and welcome! My 67 no dash is one of my favorite revolvers.

Yes, box and doc does add value, but on that particular gun I’m not sure how much. As far as price, I purchased my 67 in 2023 for $650. No box or documents and with original grips. Depending on what your grips are made of, stag or bone grips go for $100-300. Of course these days good condition original Smith targets go for the same.

Inside the yoke there should be a model number with dash. That’ll show you what engineering revision your revolver is. It has the blued sights so it can’t be too early.

As this is a model 67 thread, I am “required” to post a picture of mine as well…

Here she is with my 64:

 

[71vette]

On the etching, I’m sure that’s an inventory number. 67’s and 64’s were very popular in police and armed guard circles.

The marks on the top of the backstrap will probably come off with some Mothers mag polish and some elbow grease. The side plate looks deeper. Good news is you can take the side plate off to try and polish it out. Remember, go slow. You can always take more metal off. Putting it back is the hard part.

 

[stansdds]

Even though it was given very crude inventory numbers, that does not affect it as a shooter grade Model 67.

 

[Bucsbilly]

Very good choice, and welcome! My 67 no dash is one of my favorite revolvers.

Yes, box and doc does add value, but on that particular gun I’m not sure how much. As far as price, I purchased my 67 in 2023 for $650. No box or documents and with original grips. Depending on what your grips are made of, stag or bone grips go for $100-300. Of course these days good condition original Smith targets go for the same.

Inside the yoke there should be a model number with dash. That’ll show you what engineering revision your revolver is. It has the blued sights so it can’t be too early.

As this is a model 67 thread, I am “required” to post a picture of mine as well…

Here she is with my 64:

That matching set is beautiful! Thanks for all the good information.

I paid $450 last week so I feel like I got an exceptional deal with the grips and original wax paper and manual and such.

The yoke says Model 67, without a dash and the original owner had said it was a no dash version.

Is there a way based on serial number to find out what year my gun was manufactured? The 6K58xxx serial number doesnt mean anything to me.

 

[Bucsbilly]

On the etching, I’m sure that’s an inventory number. 67’s and 64’s were very popular in police and armed guard circles.

The marks on the top of the backstrap will probably come off with some Mothers mag polish and some elbow grease. The side plate looks deeper. Good news is you can take the side plate off to try and polish it out. Remember, go slow. You can always take more metal off. Putting it back is the hard part.

I will definitely try that - and gently. Would recommend Mothers and a microfiber cloth?

The gun is otherwise pristine but the ragged inscription bothers the heck out of me.

 

[Bucsbilly]

Very good choice, and welcome! My 67 no dash is one of my favorite revolvers.

Yes, box and doc does add value, but on that particular gun I’m not sure how much. As far as price, I purchased my 67 in 2023 for $650. No box or documents and with original grips. Depending on what your grips are made of, stag or bone grips go for $100-300. Of course these days good condition original Smith targets go for the same.

Inside the yoke there should be a model number with dash. That’ll show you what engineering revision your revolver is. It has the blued sights so it can’t be too early.

As this is a model 67 thread, I am “required” to post a picture of mine as well…

Here she is with my 64:

The more I look at your two Smiths the more I was wondering about the grips you have on them, they are really good looking pistols

 

[Venom6]

1974 per "Standard Catalog..." 3rd ed. Had one close to yours as my first duty pistol in 1975. It's worth much more than you paid. Glad it's going to a good home.

 

[bananaman]

I have a 67 no dash that shipped in 1973. It had the all stainless sights. I paid around $400 YEARS ago. No box or papers. My wife's favorite to shoot! Bob

 

[bigggbbruce]

On the etching, I’m sure that’s an inventory number. 67’s and 64’s were very popular in police and armed guard circles.

The marks on the top of the backstrap will probably come off with some Mothers mag polish and some elbow grease. The side plate looks deeper. Good news is you can take the side plate off to try and polish it out. Remember, go slow. You can always take more metal off. Putting it back is the hard part.

Those are all very deep. The back strap can be cleaned up, filing and sanding. and blending the finish. Side plate is much more difficult to cut clean and blend to the frame.Will thin the plate and wont match frame.

 

[71vette]

The 67 came with different Magnas. Those are high horn diamonds i got a good deal on. Murphys oil soap and some lemon oil spiffed them up. The Sambar stags on the 64 are from Eagle.

 

[swincolo]

Do a search on Ebay, you might get lucky and find a side plate that fits?

 

[Law-dog]

Dremel is seldom your friend. But with an abrasive I can have that rear grip section cleaned in minutes. The side plate takes time. Tape it off, all but the area to work on. Better yet, take if off the gun and still tape all but the area to work on.

Start with a harsh grit and work down until the scratch disappears, then take off the tape and use a more gentle abrasive going from say 400 to 800 grit. 800 grit is fine for a final polish, however, 1200 grit would be fine to go over the entire pistol. You will end up with a mirror finish, better than new.

Then add Renaissance Wax of something similar. Your already nice gun will look museum quality until you put holster wear on it. Keep the RenWax or oil on the gun and it will last your lifetime as a showpiece, you can even shoot it too.

 

[Nightowl]

I'm not good enough, or patient enough to get through the repair process. I would just leave it as a part of it's history and appreciate it for that!

 

[Baxter6551]

Welcome to the Forum. My 67 was, I believe, a police or corrections gun before being acquired by the armored car company I worked for during my second career. I bought it from them during a purge of old revolvers. It had a stamped inventory number but then another badly electro penned just behind the crane. My gunsmith was able to get it out but we were planning on bead blasting the gun anyways so the polishing / dremel marks didn’t really matter. That’s an option for you if you like a bead blast finish which I happen to. You can also look at the numbers as a part of the revolvers history. Definitely an inventory marking vs. police evidence room marking.

 

[bigggbbruce]

The side plate takes time. Tape it off, all but the area to work on. Better yet, take if off the gun and still tape all but the area to work on.

Side plate would come off. Needs to be done on a flat plate. Rotate the plate every couple of strokes , don't just go back and forth. Go from every direction. Once engraving gone, put the plate back on and use a block with sand paper blend frame to the now thinner plate.
Finish can be made to look nearly factory takes the right prep and strokes.