I happened onto a half a box of Norma .38 Spl +P 110 Gr Hollow points that absolutely kick butt. The box says "110 Grain, 6.2 gram".
I found in the Speer #10 manual that combination of bullet weight and load using Unique powder at 6.2 grains.
As a newbie to guns and reloading, I know nothing about Norma except what I can find in bits and blathers on the web.
Does Unique mimic the Norma hand gun powder?
Where can I find bullets that look like the soft tip, small cavity jacketed Norma?
Thanks in advance for your consideration.
~ Alan
The notation of Grams on Eropean ammunition is supposed to denote the bullet weight. Is the box marked as 110 gr. anywhere, or did someone tell you that was the bullet weight? 6.2 grams = ca. 96 grains, and as I recall, Norma loaded a bullet of that weight at one time in .38 and .357. You may be trying to duplicate something that doesn't exist through a misunderstanding or being misinformed.
Another consideration is that US ammunition is loaded to SAAMI pressure standards, and European uses CIP standards. The Piezo (PSIG) pressure standards for .357 Magnum are 35,000 PSI SAAMI, and 45,000 PSI, CIP, a considerable difference! This is why Norma ammunition performs to an obviously higher standard than US loaded ammunition. This is given as an example only as I have not been able to locate any CIP pressure standards for .38 SPL +P. I suspect there is some disparity there too. It would appear that all the +P marking indicates is the ammunition exceeds standard pressure loading, but not by a specific amount. Just like +P+ simply means it exceeds +p standards and use at your own risk.
There is only one way to "duplicate" any factory load. The first consideration is you must know at least the correct bullet weight! In this case, the Norma Tri-Clad bullets are not an issue. I am not sure they even used the Tri-Clad in .38 Spl.
1) Step one is to chronograph the factory ammunition so you know what velocity it develops. You cannot depend on published data, particularly with revolvers.
2) Select a similar bullet. If the ammunition really was 96 grains you are finished already, there just isn't anything available!
3) Select an appropriate powder. In this Case N-110, 2400 would probably be good choices.
4) Starting with data in a good loading manual begin at the "starting load" or a little higher. Load at least 5 rounds each in several steps up to the maximum load.
5) Chronograph your loads in the
same revolver, not just another one in the same caliber. When you get to the same average velocity as the original ammunition you are as close as you will ever get.
Please note that no manufacturer will tell you what powder they loaded. It will certainly be a non-canister type not available to the re-loader. It can vary from lot to lot, and may even be from a different manufacturer. Trying to guess what powder is in factory ammunition is extremely dangerous, particularly with Ball types as they are all very similar in appearance.
If you do not have, and cannot obtain a sample of the ammunition you want to "duplicate" you are finished since you have no way to determine the performance of the original ammunition! Same if you don't have a chronograph.
My money is on you shot up all the ammunition in the box, so this question is just about as moot as it can be, and this was all a waste of time to explain! Am I right?
If this was a help to anyone it was worth it, though.