Priming compound is made with water, and the compound/paste is inserted in the cups and it dries, no solvents. If the primers did get wet, with plain water, a complete drying would bring them back to "as new" condition...
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What to do with the primers.
- Thread starter scooter123
- Start date
Call them what you want. I suppose all bullets with metal on the outside are "coated" in some manner. I have thick and thin coats. Just thicker or different process. A Gun in Nickel is also Plated A Berrys Bullet has a very thin plating of copper. Some Armscor bullets have a bronze coating. Gilding metal.
I am sure someone has cut them in half and has a micron microscope
Per Speer, Gold Dots are a bonded "jacket"
Speer Ammo - Construction
Bkreutz
US Veteran
Call them what you want. I suppose all bullets with metal on the outside are "coated" in some manner. I have thick and thin coats. Just thicker or different process. A Gun in Nickel is also Plated A Berrys Bullet has a very thin plating of copper. Some Armscor bullets have a bronze coating. Gilding metal.
I am sure someone has cut them in half and has a micron microscope
Per Speer, Gold Dots are a bonded "jacket"
Speer Ammo - Construction
Reading that Speer description, when it says the jacket is bonded "one molecule at a time" sure sounds like a fancy way of describing "plating".
Sell them at the next gun show to some little old lady.
Maximumbob54
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I don't know where the oil myth comes from. If the primer is sealed as many of them are these days oil won't do a thing to them. Oil might creep in and contaminate the powder.
gunslinger2000
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When I worked the ordnance R & D oil was the standard for demilling and killing primers. GUNSLINGER
Hmmmmmmm
Speer bullets are Jacketed
Berry bullets are plated
The jacket is thicker and tougher than the plating. It's easy to expose lead in a plated bullet with rough handling. Plated, not so much.
Speer bullets are Jacketed
Berry bullets are plated
The jacket is thicker and tougher than the plating. It's easy to expose lead in a plated bullet with rough handling. Plated, not so much.
Maximumbob54
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Seriously guys, take a Winchester primer and drop it in oil. Load that thing in some empty brass and thumb back the hammer. POP!
A sealed primer is just that. SEALED.
The cheapy Tula's don't appear to be sealed and I'm sure others aren't. I'm just trying to point out that things change.
A sealed primer is just that. SEALED.
The cheapy Tula's don't appear to be sealed and I'm sure others aren't. I'm just trying to point out that things change.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Why all this bandwidth wasted on primers? Shoot them in an empty case if you must, throw them away without shooting if you want, why bother trying to "Kill" them, they are practically harmless unless you correctly strike them when the anvil is supported from the bottom. It's extremely difficult to fire a primers especially outside a case unless you really try.
Just throw them in the scrap brass bucket and recycle them!
Just throw them in the scrap brass bucket and recycle them!
OP
scooter123
Member
Actually, I wasn't asking how to demill the primers, I was asking whether to pull the primers and re-prime the cases. After a good nights sleep I've decided to pull the bullets, save the powder, and leave the primed cases open to dry out.
Maximumbob54
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As a final thought, don't be fearful of punching out a live primer. I've done it plenty of times and have yet to pop one. You would think the primer punch would pop them but I pop them out and even reuse them. I use brass until the case neck splits and when it happens I just resize it to punch out the primer and then toss the case. I was given a sack of brass once that I didn't even notice until half way through it that it was already primed. So I wasn't exactly going easy on them. I've also gone to the effort to buy cheap milsurp corrosive primed ammo and pull everything to punch the nasty primers and replace them and never had one of those pop either.
Much Ado About Nothing.
I had 10 inches of water in my basement from Hurricane Sandy. All my .22 RF was under water as well as some .38 SPL. After washing off the salt water, all of it fired without incident. Loaded ammunition is quite resistant to temperature/moisture and humidity changes.
Once, as test in searching for easier seating of primers, I applied cooking spray to them, again, without incident.
If in doubt, use it up on the range but I don't see any need to disassemble ammo that got wet.
I had 10 inches of water in my basement from Hurricane Sandy. All my .22 RF was under water as well as some .38 SPL. After washing off the salt water, all of it fired without incident. Loaded ammunition is quite resistant to temperature/moisture and humidity changes.
Once, as test in searching for easier seating of primers, I applied cooking spray to them, again, without incident.
If in doubt, use it up on the range but I don't see any need to disassemble ammo that got wet.
I am sure there will be hate directed at me for reviving this old thread, but I need to kill some primers and I searched here first. There didn't seem to be a consensus - so I consulted the google. I found this link from a while back and thought I would post it.
Bottom line, at least in this small test, WD40 will kill primers if sprayed onto bare primers and allowed to sit.
The Box O' Truth #39 - Oil Vs. Primers - The Box O' Truth
Hope this is helpful - I will report back after I've tried this ... that is, if I still have a user account!!
Bottom line, at least in this small test, WD40 will kill primers if sprayed onto bare primers and allowed to sit.
The Box O' Truth #39 - Oil Vs. Primers - The Box O' Truth
Hope this is helpful - I will report back after I've tried this ... that is, if I still have a user account!!
I am sure there will be hate directed at me for reviving this old thread, but I need to kill some primers and I searched here first. There didn't seem to be a consensus - so I consulted the google. I found this link from a while back and thought I would post it.
Bottom line, at least in this small test, WD40 will kill primers if sprayed onto bare primers and allowed to sit.
The Box O' Truth #39 - Oil Vs. Primers - The Box O' Truth
Hope this is helpful - I will report back after I've tried this ... that is, if I still have a user account!!
Well even though it is a Zombie Post I am sure Scooter figured out what to do.
Primers are pretty hard to kill.
Did you read the article all the way to the end??
If I read it correctly:
Seems to me that after the oil and WD 40 dried or evaporated they all worked??
The debate continues!
DWalt
Member
Primers are really hard to kill. Soaking them in oil, WD-40, water, or whatever is no guarantee they are dead. There was a long posting some years ago on the IAA website on the topic.
Not to string this thread along any further, but the article had two sections. The first, short section addressed bare primers soaked with WD40 - they were all dead but that section didn't address allowing them to dry out.
The second, longer section described a test with primed/live rounds - and I don't think a single round failed after six weeks of soaking. The whole subject is of interest to me because I want to know for sure whether a striker-fired handgun (Kahr CM9) is as safe as it's purported to be - but, needless to say, I don't want to have a live round or live primer in the chamber!
The second, longer section described a test with primed/live rounds - and I don't think a single round failed after six weeks of soaking. The whole subject is of interest to me because I want to know for sure whether a striker-fired handgun (Kahr CM9) is as safe as it's purported to be - but, needless to say, I don't want to have a live round or live primer in the chamber!
hdwhit
Member
Modern primers made with lead styphnate are pretty resilient because the compound is only minimally solubile in water. You'd probably find all the primers are fine, but I certainly understand your concern about a squib.
Personally, I would just reload the cases with the pulled bullets and the new powder and mark the boxes you put them in so you are alert to a squib when you go to the range.
If you decide the risk is too great and that $15 worth of primers is a small price to pay for peace of mind, then you can:
- Just fire each of the cases in your pistol to deactivate the primers or you can
- Push the primers out on your press. Then, soak the primers in denatured alcohol for some days (lead styphante is soluble in it) and then dispose of them by putting them in an old primer tray and disposing them in the trash one tray at a time (or however your local waste handling service requires).
I just throw live primers in a tall tin can, with some powder I'm disposing of. And then light it off. They really don't do much. I wouldn't be looking into the can, or place it near combustibles. Other than that, they're just loud caps, that might pop a few feet out of the can. Not near as loud as cheap firecrackers.
How many have seen the videos, which I believe were produced for fire departments, in which a small building containing the ammo stock, you might find in a sports store, is lit on fire. Everything is exploding, but the bullets themselves, usually wouldn't even penetrate the plywood walls, and not even do much damage to the sheet rock.
How many have seen the videos, which I believe were produced for fire departments, in which a small building containing the ammo stock, you might find in a sports store, is lit on fire. Everything is exploding, but the bullets themselves, usually wouldn't even penetrate the plywood walls, and not even do much damage to the sheet rock.
elpac3
Member
Shoot them. Worst they will do is not go off.
Back in the day when I worked for a major ammunition manufacturer, all primers were handled wet until they went into the case. Primers will dry out and should be just fine.
Back in the day when I worked for a major ammunition manufacturer, all primers were handled wet until they went into the case. Primers will dry out and should be just fine.
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