Smith 29-5 - safe pressure levels?

Ejsg19 · Jul 9, 2014

Hi Everyone, recently put a thread up in the post 1980's section. I acquired a 29-5, full lug, in great shape and now its time to get scientific.

I've always heard general descriptions of "Ruger only loads" vs "S&W safe loads" on the idea, which I believe, that Ruger's while a bit ugly, are indeed capable of withstanding stronger loads than a Smith. So lets take that for granted here.

My question is, in general, does this mean that a Smith revolver "should" (I say should, because any reloader knows to work up a load on his own, and not take anyone's word for a max load being safe, including a reloading manual, in his own particular gun.) be able to withstand almost any published maximum load in any reputable reloading manual?

I'm not asking this to skip the work up process, I'm asking for general answers, no load data.

This 29-5 will be my baby, and will probably digest mid to mild loads most of the time. But you don't buy a .44 magnum and never press the gas pedal so to speak.

I am just worried about shooting it loose prematurely mainly.

Thanks for your thoughts and time.

fredj338 · Jul 9, 2014

Safe & shooting the gun loose, two totally diff things. While most guns today are designed to operate within the SAAMI specs, shooting constant full power loads will accelerate wear. I managed to shoot an early modle RBH to the point I feel it's unsafe, the forcing cone is damaged to the point of spitting quite a bit. It still locks up tight though. It saw nothing but full power loads, maybe 10K.
Today all my magnums get the occasional full power stuff but I feed them upper midrange loads for general practice. I also shun jacketed bullets in my magnums, IMO, it accelerates wear @ the forcing cone, nothing but cast lead in my guns.

Jellybean · Jul 9, 2014

"Ruger only vs. S&W safe"
The S&Ws can take any load the Rugers can. They just can't take them as long.

The Smith's aren't any "weaker" than a Ruger, but their design is more like a fine piece of machinery and will be damaged by prolonged use of excessively high pressure ammunition.

While many claim it's due to the placement of the cylinder stop cutouts in the Smith's over the chamber, it's not. They both blow out in the exact same locations, the thinnest parts of the cylinder.

I shot a model 13 loose using nothing but +P .38s. It's all a matter of how much pressure over a period a time. Every shot you take with it will do damage, the higher the pressure, the more the damage.

Rule3 · Jul 9, 2014

How many max loads can or will you actually shoot? You will probably wear out before the gun

Load withing limits and you both will live long and prosper.

Just like a car, if you hammer it every time you drive it's gonna wear faster.

Aticus · Jul 9, 2014

Ejsg19, I have never seen in any loading manual the Ruger/S&W reference in the 44 Mag data. I have seen it in 45 Colt data. Your Smith was warranted, when new, to be safe with ANY FACTORY 44 Mag load. They have proven safe with any factory equivalent handload. As has been stated a constant diet of max loads will accelerate the wear on the gun. I personally would worry about too many hot loads 'cause as someone said you'll wear out before the gun.

Maximumbob54 · Jul 9, 2014

Same here. Only seen "Ruger Only" with .45 Colt and never anything other than .44 magnum standard magnum pressure. Not sure where boutique stuff like Corbon, BB, and Garrett get their loads from but they all seem to say the hottest stuff should be avoided in the N frames.

rwsmith · Jul 9, 2014

56,000 psi

Standard max pressure is 56,000 psi. In my old Speer #9 there were special sections for some calibers that were to be used only in Blackhawks and , I think, Contenders. The single action Blackhawk is stronger than a DA revolver, which the N frame is. I you care to, I'd search the manuals. One of my friends has an old Sierra manual that had what I call 'hunting loads', pretty hot. I don't hunt, and my hand got tired of firing full loads really quick. I use "kinda hot" as my maximum loads.

BTW: From that Sierra manual I made a starting load of .38 +P. They were really raucous and I didn't bother to go any higher.

Rule3 · Jul 9, 2014

I think the point is (at least my way of thinking) is that pushing the envelope (regardless of caliber) gains what?? Pressure is exceeded for a few more fps?? Is that small "extra" worth it? Even with hunting. Shot placement will do more than a few FPS more velocity.

Sure load some max loads, you will find those vary a lot depending on the powder company or manual. No need to exceed them.

I use the Buffalo Bore +P 38 special 158 gr LSWC HP as an example (it is the FBI load or whatever) I shot those in a alloy frame snub. Barely got through 5 shots. It was brutal!! For what? If I had to make a follow up shot I doubt it would be on target. I do not mind recoil either, but a diet of those the gun would be toast!

brucev · Jul 9, 2014

Congratulations on finding and buying a 29-5! It will give you and your children many many years of pleasure and enjoyment.

Handloading is a wonderful way to increase the utility of a handgun. Done with judicious attention to the commonly accepted rules of reloading, you will be rewarded with outstanding results on target.

Over the years there have been all sorts of guns that have been damaged or even destroyed by mistakes made by handloaders who were novices and even those who have years of experience.

There is no magic to handloading. And often there is precious little science exercised on the part of those who talk about how hot they load for one or another cartridge. This applies whether one is loading for a rifle or a pistol or a revolver. Regardless of what cartridge one is loading, returns diminish as one approaches maximum loads. At the very highest possible load levels, the returns are very small, no where worth the costs of a damaged or destroyed gun.

Your 29-5 will handle any normal factory load. It will also handle the handloads listed in reputable reloading manuals published by the various companies that produce reloading equipment and components. Beware of those who complain that such loads are lawyered down and that one must go beyond such loads to have real magnum loads. Sooner or later such folks end up picking up the pieces of good guns that were reduced to scrap by their own failure to take seriously the consequences of ignoring basic rules of safety in handloading.

fredj338 · Jul 9, 2014

rwsmith said:
Standard max pressure is 56,000 psi. In my old Speer #9 there were special sections for some calibers that were to be used only in Blackhawks and , I think, Contenders. The single action Blackhawk is stronger than a DA revolver, which the N frame is. I you care to, I'd search the manuals. One of my friends has an old Sierra manual that had what I call 'hunting loads', pretty hot. I don't hunt, and my hand got tired of firing full loads really quick. I use "kinda hot" as my maximum loads.

BTW: From that Sierra manual I made a starting load of .38 +P. They were really raucous and I didn't bother to go any higher.

Might want to dial that back a bit. More like 36,000psi??..
The issue with S&W vs Ruger are the finer parts in a S&W. Look at the pawl, star, cyl locking bolt, the Ruger is just more robust & will shoot longer with full power loads before thy need some smithing. I love my N frames, by if I wanted to abuse a 44mag, I'ld buy a RRH or SRH.

Smith 29-5 - safe pressure levels?

Ejsg19

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fredj338

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Jellybean

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Rule3

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Aticus

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Maximumbob54

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rwsmith

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Rule3

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brucev

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fredj338

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