Has anyone tried using a blank round to clear a squib? Instead of crimping the end of the case, can you set a wax bullet into the case to make blanks?

Hammer & Brass rod is the only safe way. Soak the barrel & Bullet in kroil over night.

If you have a copy of Hatcher's Notebook, he deals with this very topic(not just squibs, but any other barrel obstruction such as a stuck cleaning patch).

Blank powder is very fast and intended to be fired in a relatively unobstructed barrel. Putting a blank behind a squib turns the gun into a pipe bomb.

Hatcher did conclude that a normal cartridge with the bullet pulled could be safely fired behind a sqib or other obstruction, although he was primarily experimenting with '03 Springfield rifles. I'm not sure if this would work in a revolver with the cylinder gap.

I agree that a rod and hammer is a far better and safer option.

NOT ONLY HAVE I NEVER TRIED IT, I HAVE NEVER EVEN HEARD OF IT BEING DONE IN OVER 50 YEARS OF SHOOTING, AND READING GUN LITERATURE. I WOULD GUESS THAT THERE IS SOME GOOD REASON FOR THAT. PERHAPS WE WILL LEARN WHAT IT IS, FURTHER ON IN THIS THREAD. IN ANY EVENT, I WOULD TAKE THE TIME PROVEN APPROACH OF TAPPING IT OUT WITH A BRASS ROD, TO AVOID POSSIBLE DAMAGE TO YOUR GUN, OR HARM TO YOURSELF…….

(OBVIOUSLY, SOME INFORMATIVE RESPONSES CAME IN, AS I WAS SLOWLY PECKING OUT THIS RESPONSE WITH ONE FINGER, lol….)

__________________
'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

NO, NO WAY

As stated in an earlier post, the powder used in blanks is extremely fast. It has to be to get the desired report without a bullet. You will run a substantial risk of damaging your gun if you try it. There is always the chance of it dislodging the squib without damage, but why take the risk? Be safe and use the brass rod and mallet to clear the squib.

I also read the Hatcher account.
While he did do development work with this method, it never made it to even last ditch emergency measure.

__________________
it just needs more voltage

I concur.....As a professional instructor of over 4 decades....30 of those as a LE instructor ( and armorer).....I have seen my share of lodged projectiles, particularly from handloads.....have carried a brass range rod and mallet in my range kit since the 70's.....had a young lady pound four lead bullets up the pipe of a Ruger Sp 101 during a citizen NRA pistol class once....the 4th bullet lodged in between the cylinder and barrel...tied up the cylinder....which was fortuitous, since the 5th round had a full powder charge in it.....took a trip to the machine shop to solve that conundrum.

I've only had one squib in my life -- on a FA 454.

I used a piece of 3/8 wooden dowel to push it out.

Didn't have a brass rod and would have had to figure out where to get one.

Dave

If a person has so many squib rounds that he has to think of a faster way to clear them needs to find another hobby before he harms himself and those in his immediate vicinity.

__________________
Minimize the variables

This would go under the really bad idea. A simple brass rod or tape wrapped steel rod is all that is needed. No oil either for shorter handgun bbls.

__________________
NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

Amen !!! ..........

I agree, use a rod.

I disagree, it has been done with black powder. This is a whole different thing.

David

If I recall correctly from Hatcher's notebook;
GI's (I believe in bootcamp) used to clean their '03 rifles with a bootlace and patch
Occasionally an overzealous GI would get one stuck
Col. Hatcher would pull the bullet from a standard round and dump about half the powder.
He would then blow out the patch + bootlace with no harm done to the shooter or firearm.
If you want an exact quote I can pick the book up and get it, it's about six feet from me.

Bad plan; good way to "ring" a barrel-best case...

No. Blanks are quite powerful, contrary to popular belief. A number of people have killed themselves by putting a handgun to their heads and firing a blank. There is enough pressure there to put a hole in a skull and turn the brain to mush.

Best is a brass rod about bore diameter. Or a steel rod with a brass tip about bore diameter.

Brass, and copper, rods can be obtained at hardware stores and big box stores like Home Depot.

Brownells carries range rods. for various calibers...search under "brass range rods" on their site, if you feel the need.

Exactly. I'm not suggesting the use of blank powder in the blanks. That would be reckless because of the flashpoint of the blank powder. However, I'm suggesting using the same powder with the same amount of grains or less than what you are presently shooting. Some of you guys get the picture.

For example, let's say you were shooting 357 Magnum, 158 gr XTP bullet, 13.3 gr of 2400 powder from your M27 revolver. For some unknown reason, you got a squib while shooting. (well OK, we all know the reason...) What would happen if you get another round and pop off the bullet and replace it with a .357 wax bullet and fire it through the M27? I don't see how the pressure would cause any damage to you or the M27. However, I don't know if the squib would get cleared being that it's lodged further down the barrel. I'm suggesting employing the use of a wax bullet to hold back the powder and also for lubrication purposes.

I reload my own rounds. What if I kept a waxed bullet round in my bag just for this purpose? I could always melt wax in a mold to get the wax bullets.

Scare tactics leave a lasting impression. I got your point. However...

On a vented barrel like a revolver, I don't know if you would get enough pressure buildup to even burn the smokeless powder efficiently enough to push the obstructing bullet out of the barrel, even if using a wax bullet to help the powder burn. And if it does, it still sounds pretty dangerous to even try. I know that I wouldn't want to test this out on any revolver I own and wouldn't want to be around someone else doing this either. Like others have said, get yourself a range rod.

Yeah, it probably won't blow up your gun. Probably.

But then, how much does a foot of brass rod cost vs. the cost of a barrel?

Assuming a squib to be a round fired leaving the bullet lodged in the bore, the use of any charged case brings the nasty possibilities of either a bulged barrel or a ruptured barrel, possibly with fragmentation effect in the surrounding area.

Removing a stuck bullet is not terribly difficult. A solid brass or aluminum rod (less than bore diameter) and a mallet are all that is needed. Some good penetrating oil eases the process. A padded bench vise to hold the firearm securely helps.

I would leave the firearm in muzzle up position and the bore liberally treated with Kroil or WD-40 overnight. Secure the firearm in a vise with well padded jaws (leather or wood). Insert rod at the muzzle and tap (not pound) the bullet back through the bore. After clearing the bore a thorough cleaning and inspection (paying particular attention for barrel bulging behind the stuck bullet) are called for before further use.

Versus the cost of the emergency room.......

This would be a good one to send into Mythbusters because we're ALL curious about danger!

__________________
Really? U saw it in Wikipedia?

No, just no.

DOUBLE CHARGE OF BULLSEYE?????

...because...the barrel is not supported against high pressures as well as in the cylinder area? Possibly. I would think the pressure would be lower at the stuck squib because of the distance from the throat and the cylinder/barrel gap. Especially if the charge was the same or less. This would need to be proved in a scientific laboratory type condition before I venture to clear a weapon in this fashion.

Just to clear the air, the squib that I suggested was theoretical. I do not have a squib round to clear in any of my weapons. I like yourself would personally utilize a squib rod if one would occur to me.

I wouldn't use Hatcher's method in a handgun. Using a rod and hammer is much better. However, I have used Hatcher's method (pulling the bullet from another round and dumping out about half the powder charge) on several occasions in rifles, and it works fine. And in fact it is preferable to using a rod and hammer, as there is no possibility of damage to the bore.

Confused with your statements and borders on "fork-tongue".
"Using a rod and hammer is much better."
" And in fact it is preferable to using a rod and hammer, as there is no possibility of damage to the bore."

If possible bore damage is a worry, try a hardwood dowel matched as closely as possible to the bore diameter, use a good dose of oil, and tap patiently.

Just to clear the air, the squib that I suggested was theoretical. I do not have a squib round to clear in any of my weapons. I like yourself would personally utilize a squib rod if one would occur to me.[/QUOTE]

thats funny. you got everyone fired up. do it again

Titegroup!

This post has been an interesting read. It sort of reminds me of some of the good ol' boys famous last words around here when they attempt something with a potential hazardous outcome - "Hey ya'll watch this!"

I'm sure BUBBA did, and his last words were "hold my beer and watch this". + 1 on the brass rod and mallet.

simple ... most bolt actions tend to be fairly overbuilt to begin with which makes this workable.
Autos have their weaknesses that can render the arm inoperable and handguns do not have the inherent strength of any decent rifle.

This is not something I ever want to have to do to any gun unless my situation includes a description of being long on enemy, short on provisions and a 50+ mile hike to sanity.

Save this, theres no logical reason to try it.

__________________
it just needs more voltage

I'm a bit nervous about putting a steel rod down the bore. Depending on the length inserted and flex, you can still bugger the muzzle. I've seen steel cleaning rods, but I've always been hesitant to use them.

I don't like putting anything down the bore that is as hard as the barrel steel.

__________________
Common sense isn't so common.

AS AN NRA CERTIFIED INSTRUCTOR MYSELF, FOR OVER 30 YEARS, I MUST QUESTION THE LEVEL OF SUPERVISION (OR LACK THEREOF) THAT WOULD ALLOW A YOUNG STUDENT TO PUMP 4 CONSECUTIVE SQUIB ROUNDS UP THE BARREL OF A REVOLVER, WITHOUT INTERVENTION………

__________________
'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

it's fairly easy ........
seen this stunt happen under rapid fire in a 10/22
was right around number 6 or 7 the shooter figured something was off.
the bore became a little interesting after that one, bulged at each impact point as they stacked up .... being straight lead I cleared them with mercury.
when possible, mercury trumps all methods as long as it can contact the lead.

__________________
it just needs more voltage

Cold rolled steel rods, as sold in most hardware stores, are much softer than bbl steel.

__________________
Front sight and squeeze

Only one for me too.First outing with a centerfire gun(strictly a rimfire guy up until that point),a brand new PC 27-7.
I was ear protection,using wadcutters,and had only fired less than a dozen rounds.
I came very close to continuing to shoot after the squib,thinking it just a very mild round,but something told me to pause.Glad I did.The bullet was midpoint in the barrel.Of course, a squib being a totally new experience for me,I did not have a rod.A wood dowel took care of it very easily...once I got home.Ammo was new,not reloads.

I had my first one about forty years in.Didnt feel or sound different at all ,but it tied up a new to me 586.Pulled the sideplate and everything looked fine so I took it to a smith They were very polite and didnt laugh lol.The next time it happened,I had a dowel with me

Well that is the point isn't it? The gun may not KB, but a bbl bulge or ring is possible, neither are good. Why some people want to reinvent the phricking wheel amazes me.

__________________
NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

Exactly..
Except mine only took 10 minutes with Kroil.

Love that stuff

Fortunately for me, my first(and only) one was quite obvious.

I was shooting a little I frame in 32 long, which is a pop gun under the best of circumstances. I had a round that sounded more like a BB gun, and fortunately stopped shooting. I looked down to see a Hornady XTP poking out the end of the barrel

Looks like S. Korea, somewhere.

Ask Jason Lee how clearing a squib with a blank worked out for him.

I believe you meant Brandon Lee
Brandon Lee - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

As a naval gunnery officer I had "short charges" available to clear projectiles lodged in the barrel of my 5-inch naval guns. Never had to use one.

Even before going into the service I had read Hatcher's findings on the subject and thought about them relative to using a short charge, hoping a short charge would work as intended should the need arise. A rod to knock a 72-pound HE round back into the breech was not an option, but with explosives slowly cooking in a hot barrel we would have done whatever was necessary. Hatcher's principles and methods of bore clearance probably would apply to both big and small bores, hence the short charges we carried.

Personally I have always used a wooden dowel or brass rod with my personal weapons. Works fine.

There is a current thread on this in the gunsmithing forum.

There is only one word that applies here BOOM. Even if said squib was to clear and some how every thing held there is a high likelihood that your going to see nice ring in the bore. Take a junk 22 and try it if you don't believe hatcher. He saved all of us our eyes and fingers at the cost of a tremendous pile of blown up rifles. squib rod and a bench block is always the best idea. When I was much younger and I watched a buddy ring a nice ruger after I said " that's a bad idea" my take on hatchers finding was that it could be done in a Springfield but was a poor idea. Safe as to safer than haveing a rifle with a ringed bore is safer than no rifle in combat.