Stopsign32v
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I'm going to be reloading for 38 and 357 magnum and I'm curious what the best bullets cost to value are. Won't be shooting match grade stuff, just plinking.
What bullets for 38 and 357 reloading? lead?
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I've switched from all lead bullets to either plated or epoxy coated bullets. They're just a bit more expensive but avoid the lead issues. Of course, I plan to use up my stock of existing lead bullets but I keep the velocities modest in order to avoid barrel leading.
I've switched from all lead bullets to either plated or epoxy coated bullets. They're just a bit more expensive but avoid the lead issues. Of course, I plan to use up my stock of existing lead bullets but I keep the velocities modest in order to avoid barrel leading.
OP
Stopsign32v
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I'm considering strongly casting my own
Stopsign,
I currently cast 4 different bullets for 38/357.
Lyman:
150gr BNWC,
155 gr SWCGC (for 357 loads)
158gr RN
160gr SWC
With these bullets, you will need a lubrisizer with the appropriate dies.
I currently cast 4 different bullets for 38/357.
Lyman:
150gr BNWC,
155 gr SWCGC (for 357 loads)
158gr RN
160gr SWC
With these bullets, you will need a lubrisizer with the appropriate dies.
BuckeyeS&W
Member
I really like Missouri Bullet Co. I shoot a lot of their 158 gr LSWC's both Hi-Tek coated and uncoated . I like .38 Match because they are a bit softer at 12 Brinell and shoot well out of my 66. They offer $14 flat rate usps priority shipping. I can have 3 boxes of 500 shipped to PO in three days for $14.I order directly from MBC.
I would highly recommend......
......coated bullets by Missouri and Bayou. You can push these as fast as you need to.
Even I can afford 8 to 9 cents/bullet.
......coated bullets by Missouri and Bayou. You can push these as fast as you need to.
Even I can afford 8 to 9 cents/bullet.
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Stopsign32v
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Missouri Bullet Co looks very very enticing
Biggfoot44
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The part you didn't ask is 158 gr, either Round Nose (RN) or Semi Wadcutter ( SWC).. The original bullet wt for both ctgs, most likely to shoot to point of aim for fixed sight revolvers. And all around useful weight.
I've always been pleased with cast, occasionally used plated successfully.
I've always been pleased with cast, occasionally used plated successfully.
I used Missouri Bullet Company bullets a lot in the past but I've moved my cast bullet business to Rimrock Bullets. The quality was better than what I was getting from MBC. It may have just been a temporary slump in quality, but I noticed and went elsewhere.
You'll want to match the hardness of the bullet to the pressure of the load (more so than velocity, although the two are obviously connected) and both companies offer different alloys for different purposes.
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158 gr LSWCs are a standard in .38 and will generally shoot to point of aim and produce very good accuracy in most .38s.
If you're practicing speed loads, or if speed matters in the re-load, you'll want to use a round nose or round nose flat point bullet instead, and the shoulders on the LSWC bullets tend to hang on the cylinders and requires a lot more fiddling to get them aligned.
If you want to practice with a bullet that matches a hollow point or lead soft point profile (more or less) a RNFP is a good choice.
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I'm in agreement that plated bullets are a good move when it comes to higher pressure loads. I prefer to buy from X-treme as the quality is excellent and the prices are consistently lower than Berry's - especially when X-treme has a sale, a $5 shipping or a free shipping offer - and they always offer some type of sale).
X-treme bullets are double struck and very uniform and produce very good accuracy by plated bullet standards. I shoot their 158 gr RNFP in both .38 +P and .357 Magnum practice loads.
I also use that bullet in my Model 92 rifles, although it's velocity limited where a jacketed XTP is not.
I get very good 1.25-1.5 MOA 10 shot group accuracy with their 150 gr heavy plated RNFP .308 bullets in my .30-30 1885 High Wall. I can launch them at just under 1800 fps before I start to get fliers. I'm hoping they eventually come out with a heavy plated 158 gr or 170 gr .357 bullet as well as it would be superb in a .357 Magnum Model 92 rifle or carbine.
You'll want to match the hardness of the bullet to the pressure of the load (more so than velocity, although the two are obviously connected) and both companies offer different alloys for different purposes.
----
158 gr LSWCs are a standard in .38 and will generally shoot to point of aim and produce very good accuracy in most .38s.
If you're practicing speed loads, or if speed matters in the re-load, you'll want to use a round nose or round nose flat point bullet instead, and the shoulders on the LSWC bullets tend to hang on the cylinders and requires a lot more fiddling to get them aligned.
If you want to practice with a bullet that matches a hollow point or lead soft point profile (more or less) a RNFP is a good choice.
-----
I'm in agreement that plated bullets are a good move when it comes to higher pressure loads. I prefer to buy from X-treme as the quality is excellent and the prices are consistently lower than Berry's - especially when X-treme has a sale, a $5 shipping or a free shipping offer - and they always offer some type of sale).
X-treme bullets are double struck and very uniform and produce very good accuracy by plated bullet standards. I shoot their 158 gr RNFP in both .38 +P and .357 Magnum practice loads.
I also use that bullet in my Model 92 rifles, although it's velocity limited where a jacketed XTP is not.
I get very good 1.25-1.5 MOA 10 shot group accuracy with their 150 gr heavy plated RNFP .308 bullets in my .30-30 1885 High Wall. I can launch them at just under 1800 fps before I start to get fliers. I'm hoping they eventually come out with a heavy plated 158 gr or 170 gr .357 bullet as well as it would be superb in a .357 Magnum Model 92 rifle or carbine.
Clovishound
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I really liked 158 grain cast LSWCs in my older model 10. Accuracy was excellent, and leading was minimal. My newer Model 10 has a leading on the frame issue that plated/coated solves. I've not been as happy with the accuracy in .38 with plated, but that is likely a result of not exploring all the right powder types and loads thoroughly. The 158 grain HP from Xtreme are excellent in my .357 Henry rifle. I run them over a mid load of Universal and they are very accurate. They make pretty ammo as well.
I am currently trying to find the right coated bullet for me. All of the coated 158 grain SWCs and RNFPs have been fine in .38. I've had some issues with several in .357. Either minor feed issues with the SWCs in the Henry, or leading with one brand when pushed beyond 1000 fps. I was hoping for a coated RNFP that I could use the same bullet for .38 and for .357 in the rifle. Haven't found the right one yet. I may just give up and use coated SWCs for the Model 10, and plated HPs in the Henry.
I am currently trying to find the right coated bullet for me. All of the coated 158 grain SWCs and RNFPs have been fine in .38. I've had some issues with several in .357. Either minor feed issues with the SWCs in the Henry, or leading with one brand when pushed beyond 1000 fps. I was hoping for a coated RNFP that I could use the same bullet for .38 and for .357 in the rifle. Haven't found the right one yet. I may just give up and use coated SWCs for the Model 10, and plated HPs in the Henry.
I like Oregon Trail for magnum velocities. I load the 44 magnum at 1,300 fps with no leading issues. I also use Meister Bullets at standard velocities and am happy with them. I haven't tried the others mentioned above.
Not sure what the best is in terms of cost/value (and of course value means different things to different people), but for my reloads all I've used is Speer #4624 for both 38 special and .357 magnum and they work well for my uses (target/plink). Box of 500 ~$45 (9 cents per bullet) plus shipping.
Rpg
Member
I use either hard cast 158 gr swc or hard cast 148 gr wc: all cast by me.
I have gone on and off the lead bandwagon over fifty years. Brinell hardness, alloy makeup, velocity, and different powders never made a significant enough difference. I tired of pulling a Lewis Lead Remover through my handguns after every match.
Switched to plated bullets and never looked back.
Switched to plated bullets and never looked back.
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I second the use of Oregon Trail (Laser Cast) hard-cast lead bullets. They're very hard at 22 Bn, and require at least 12 Kpsi to upset and seal properly. However they don't lead, even when used in a carbine (1800 fps or so), nor do they expand. For reference, jacket metal is about 26 Bn.
I use SWC for the best ballistics and clean paper punching, and RNFP for cleanest feed in a lever gun, quick-loader or moon clip.
I'm not a hunter, but they're supposed to be good for large game, and will punch through gristle and bone (and shoot through a white tail end to end).
For jacketed bullets, I prefer to use Hornady XTP hollow points. They're consistent, and punch clean holes. I would use them for self-defense, but it's better to buy commercial loads for legal and safety reasons.
My next batch of .45 ACP will use Oregon Trail LRN bullets. They should feed well - you can't dent them with your thumbnail.
I use SWC for the best ballistics and clean paper punching, and RNFP for cleanest feed in a lever gun, quick-loader or moon clip.
I'm not a hunter, but they're supposed to be good for large game, and will punch through gristle and bone (and shoot through a white tail end to end).
For jacketed bullets, I prefer to use Hornady XTP hollow points. They're consistent, and punch clean holes. I would use them for self-defense, but it's better to buy commercial loads for legal and safety reasons.
My next batch of .45 ACP will use Oregon Trail LRN bullets. They should feed well - you can't dent them with your thumbnail.
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For optimum performance, alloying components must be closely controlled. Anything you add to lead will lower its melting point. The scum which forms on the melt is rich in oxides of the alloying elements, and must be carefully fluxed and mixed to retain the proper proportions. Too much antimony (e.g., wheel weights) make the alloy brittle. Too much tin will lower the melting point enough to leave strips of lead in your rifling like Christmas tinsel if you push the bullets a little too fast. Too soft (< 8 Bn) will do the same at speeds greater than about 600 fps.
I'm a chemist by training, and know what I don't know, such as the the proper tools for an accurate assay. I'll pay a little more and let the folks at Oregon Trails handle the details. Let them deal with the fumes which will eventually cloud your mind enough to vote for Hillary.
I'm a chemist by training, and know what I don't know, such as the the proper tools for an accurate assay. I'll pay a little more and let the folks at Oregon Trails handle the details. Let them deal with the fumes which will eventually cloud your mind enough to vote for Hillary.
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NJM15
Member
Lead and Extreme
I have a box of 500 lead 158 swc that a friend of mine
gave me the box is so beat up there is no id left. The old guy figured it was time to put his guns away for the last time. they work good in my 6" model 27 with a P+ load of HS 6 a little Smokey but that's ok. Second for my .357 is the extreme 125 FP they have a conolure that makes a nice crimp, load them with 10.6 gr HS 6 . Anything else strictly extreme bullets, have been using them for 4 years now, not one complaint
I have a box of 500 lead 158 swc that a friend of mine
gave me the box is so beat up there is no id left. The old guy figured it was time to put his guns away for the last time. they work good in my 6" model 27 with a P+ load of HS 6 a little Smokey but that's ok. Second for my .357 is the extreme 125 FP they have a conolure that makes a nice crimp, load them with 10.6 gr HS 6 . Anything else strictly extreme bullets, have been using them for 4 years now, not one complaint
38SPL HV
Member
I like 158 gr hard cast for my 38 Spl +P and 357 Magnum (mid range and magnum). I like regular lead (Speer, Everglades Reloading or Hornady) 158 gr in my std velocity 38 Spl's.
