Mikeinkaty
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Which is preferred? And why?
Mike
Mike
Roll crimp or taper crimp for 357 rifle?
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Always roll crimped for my .357 rifles as long as the bullets have crimping grooves which I try to always use for .38/.3576 loadings. I cannot say if a taper crimp has any advantages other than if the bullet has no groove.
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Mikeinkaty
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I heard one guy on YouTube say to taper crimp lead bullets for a rifle. He never said why. I could understand if they were grooveless FMJ. I've shot around 100 coated lead rounds thru my 357 rifle using the Lee FCD. No problems and good accuracy. No problems either with HDY SJ with a crimp groove.
Mike
Mike
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Good point - a FCD might not hold the bullet as tight as a roll crimp for tube feeds.
There should not be a problem with either assuming you can find the correct size crimp die and adjust it correctly.
I always use a roll crimp. A properly adjusted roll crimp will prevent bullet set back and prevent the bullet from jumping crimp in a revolver. A properly adjusted roll crimp should feed into a rifle without a problem.
If using a bullet without any crimp groove a taper crimp might be a better option but a properly adjusted roll crimp can yield the same result.
If someone is having problems with rounds feeding in a rifle they might try and blame the crimp die but that doesn't mean they know what they're talking about.
I always use a roll crimp. A properly adjusted roll crimp will prevent bullet set back and prevent the bullet from jumping crimp in a revolver. A properly adjusted roll crimp should feed into a rifle without a problem.
If using a bullet without any crimp groove a taper crimp might be a better option but a properly adjusted roll crimp can yield the same result.
If someone is having problems with rounds feeding in a rifle they might try and blame the crimp die but that doesn't mean they know what they're talking about.
For my lever guns and pump rifles in both 357 Magnum and 45 Long Colt, I ALWAYS Collet Crimp the projectiles.
Collet crimping or Stab crimping as it is sometimes called works on projectiles with or without a cannelure.
LEE Precision makes a FCD specifically for rifles that imparts the Collet style crimp
357 Magnum Custom Collet Style Crimp Die - Lee Precision
Collet crimping or Stab crimping as it is sometimes called works on projectiles with or without a cannelure.
LEE Precision makes a FCD specifically for rifles that imparts the Collet style crimp
357 Magnum Custom Collet Style Crimp Die - Lee Precision
The LEE Precision FCD for revolver cartridges is a Roll Crimp die.
In my opinion the bullet type dictates crimp type. If shooting one of the plated bullets with no crimping grove then you'll be needing to use a taper crimp. If the bullet has a grove for crimping then of course the preferred crimp would be a roll crimp.
dannyabear
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Taper crimp for auto loaders, roll crimp for revolver cartridges..
scooter123
Member
The standard Lee Factory Crimp Die for 357 Magnum is a Roll Crimp Die. Note, you can get this die in a Taper Crimp but it's Special Order and you'll have to wait for one to be made for your order.
Personally I try and build my 38 special and 357 Magnum ammunition so they are applicable to either my handguns or rifles. Since both my 357 Magnum rifles index the case off the rim I see no need or benefit to using a taper crimp.
muddocktor
Member
Mike, if you plan to run them in your Henry, I would advise to roll crimp them so you don't have bullet setback.
BTW, I ran to the range today with my new Christmas present that Santa brought me; a ProChrono Digital chronograph. I will be posting some data up later on when I get a chance. I shot the 180 grain MBC Strikers and the 140 grain Zingers through my 20" Rossi, using H110, Accurate #9 and IMR 4227 on the Strikers and the first 2 on the Zingers. With the Strikers, I got the best velocity with the A #9 loads and with the Zingers, I made some devastating loads with H110 that averaged over 1900 fps.
BTW, I ran to the range today with my new Christmas present that Santa brought me; a ProChrono Digital chronograph. I will be posting some data up later on when I get a chance. I shot the 180 grain MBC Strikers and the 140 grain Zingers through my 20" Rossi, using H110, Accurate #9 and IMR 4227 on the Strikers and the first 2 on the Zingers. With the Strikers, I got the best velocity with the A #9 loads and with the Zingers, I made some devastating loads with H110 that averaged over 1900 fps.
gwpercle
Member
When loading for a lever action rifle use a bullet with a cannelure or crimp groove and give it a nice roll crimp. The magazine exerts pressure on the bullet and when fired recoil exerts additional force. If the bullet is driven back into the case and fired bad things happen.
You do not want the bullet to move.
Gary
You do not want the bullet to move.
Gary
smoothshooter
Member
I taper crimp all straight wall pistol loads because variations in case length are less critical, and the brass lasts much longer.
I also load cast bullets only, which have deeper crimp grooves that a taper crimp can grab onto.
I also load cast bullets only, which have deeper crimp grooves that a taper crimp can grab onto.
Case length variations have little effect if you seat and crimp in separate operations. That's standard with a progressive press, and a worth while option in any operation.
The sharp lip left by a taper, or even punched crimp may hang up in a Marlin levergun. A semi-wadcutter bullet can also cause problems. For smoothest feed, I use RNFP bullets with a rolled crimp.
Feeding in a Marlin can be greatly improved with a little tuning. In theory, the Marlin has a controlled feed, in which the rim of the cartridge slips smoothly under the extractor as it is lifted into position.
The extractor, which is stamped, has a sharp edge where the cartridge enters. It helps to round this slightly with a stone. The extractor can also be tight, and feeding can be improved by bending it slightly away from the bolt face.
That done, the cartridge enters the chamber nearly straight, with little tendency to hang up on the sharp edge of the receiver.
I would be concerned about bullet movement from setback or recoil with a taper crimp, in a revolver or carbine with a tubular magazine.
The sharp lip left by a taper, or even punched crimp may hang up in a Marlin levergun. A semi-wadcutter bullet can also cause problems. For smoothest feed, I use RNFP bullets with a rolled crimp.
Feeding in a Marlin can be greatly improved with a little tuning. In theory, the Marlin has a controlled feed, in which the rim of the cartridge slips smoothly under the extractor as it is lifted into position.
The extractor, which is stamped, has a sharp edge where the cartridge enters. It helps to round this slightly with a stone. The extractor can also be tight, and feeding can be improved by bending it slightly away from the bolt face.
That done, the cartridge enters the chamber nearly straight, with little tendency to hang up on the sharp edge of the receiver.
I would be concerned about bullet movement from setback or recoil with a taper crimp, in a revolver or carbine with a tubular magazine.
Pisgah
Member
Absolutely! Anything other than a roll crimp is a mistake.
4barrel
Member
I did this years ago With my Marlin carbine. The roll crimp had the best group. You can get a rifle load up close to 2000fps with magnum powder and keep an eye on the primers. I dont shoot these in my 19s. I mark the primers with a red Sharpie.
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gregintenn
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Roll crimp in a crimp groove/cannelure. Taper crimp on a smooth bullet.
I use only bullets with crimping grooves for revolver rounds.
I use only bullets with crimping grooves for revolver rounds.
Clovishound
Member
I use the Lee FCD roll crimp for the 357 magnums going through my Henry. It has always worked well for me. I only buy bullets with a canelure.
