OP
Thanks for the suggestions - I got the Dillon swager, should be delivered by the end of the week.
primer pocket crimp removal
- Thread starter johngalt
- Start date
oberon
Member
I got a 2nd hand RCBS primer pocket swager. Slicker'n snot on a glass doorknob. Smooths out the crimp like magic.
I've got an idea, but I'm going to have to do more...
I've got some possibly military 5.56 cases which I assumed had crimped primer pockets. I chucked about a 1/4" drill bit into my drill press (I bevel the case mouths with a countersinking tool) and used it to take the crimps off. I'm going to have to get a pocket uniformer though, because primers still wouldn't even start going into the pockets. I had crushed a few trying before beveling but they still wouldn't go after the bevel.
I've got some possibly military 5.56 cases which I assumed had crimped primer pockets. I chucked about a 1/4" drill bit into my drill press (I bevel the case mouths with a countersinking tool) and used it to take the crimps off. I'm going to have to get a pocket uniformer though, because primers still wouldn't even start going into the pockets. I had crushed a few trying before beveling but they still wouldn't go after the bevel.
max503
Member
I agree with this 100%. My RCBS swager sits, unused.
You can remove the cutter from the Lyman hand tool and chuck it in a small, rechargeable drill if you are lazy.
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I shoot 45acp and fortunately have a ton once fired military brass that I picked up years ago. All crimped. I found the Dillon is the most user friendly if set up right. Firmly secured and using a spring or rubber band to flip uo crimper arm, it's fast and very consistent which is important to me.
Just my .02's. Jim
Just my .02's. Jim
Huskerguy
Member
My very simple approach to this issue is that I am hesitant to use any tool that removes brass, at any amount. That's just me. The primer pocket is extremely accurate and precise, most of us and our tools are not, especially those that cut. But I have not used all of them so I am making a general statement I cannot prove obviously.
I purchased the Dillon bench top swaging tool many years ago and it has worked flawlessly for me and others I have loaned it to. A friend purchased an enormous amount of .223 brass years ago and during his winters down south he borrowed my tool and swaged more brass than I will ever use. Worked perfectly when later on we loaded this same brass.
Your results may vary. Now there are many tools that can installed on our presses that look to work very well.
I purchased the Dillon bench top swaging tool many years ago and it has worked flawlessly for me and others I have loaned it to. A friend purchased an enormous amount of .223 brass years ago and during his winters down south he borrowed my tool and swaged more brass than I will ever use. Worked perfectly when later on we loaded this same brass.
Your results may vary. Now there are many tools that can installed on our presses that look to work very well.
After some years shooting X course I feel reaming is the way to go and a case mouth deburring tool does a nice job leaving a slight bevel for re-priming. YMMV
DWalt
Member
The amount of brass removed by reaming the primer pocket crimp is insignificantly tiny.
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You must be an attorney.
All I knowd there is what I seen with my own eyes.
Not trying to convince anyone that chamfering is better or worse. If you want to spend the money on a dillion or RCBS tool then you should just do that. You'll be a lot happier because you spent the money on a tool that's marketed for that specific task.
Like I said. I have the RCBS tool and used both methods. I like simple inexpensive solutions. If a new guy is trying to cut costs using military brass they don't need a $150 or even a $115 tool.
YMMV
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You may be the guy who recommended this to me a few years back. Out of this, reaming and swaging, the countersink was the least trouble and most consistent.
Still a giant, sprawling pain in the backside.
RCBS for 45 years.
When my boy started to learn how to load, I slipped in
a 5.56 case, that was deprimed and sized.
As he tried to put a primer in, "hey Dad, this ain't working".
Out came the RCBS, and another useful lesson.
When my boy started to learn how to load, I slipped in
a 5.56 case, that was deprimed and sized.
As he tried to put a primer in, "hey Dad, this ain't working".
Out came the RCBS, and another useful lesson.
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Patrick L
Member
As others have said, many ways to skin this cat, and they all work.
I personally use a Lyman primer pocket reamer to cut the crimp away, THEN I use the Dillon bench mounted swager to burnish things nice and smooth. It's overkill, either method by itself would be enough, that's just me.
I've also manually cut the crimp on a select few individual cases with a fine pen knife. That worked perfectly as well, but I wouldn’t want to do that regularly. A tool will at least be consistent.
I personally use a Lyman primer pocket reamer to cut the crimp away, THEN I use the Dillon bench mounted swager to burnish things nice and smooth. It's overkill, either method by itself would be enough, that's just me.
I've also manually cut the crimp on a select few individual cases with a fine pen knife. That worked perfectly as well, but I wouldn’t want to do that regularly. A tool will at least be consistent.
Huskerguy
Member
That is probably a true statement overall. What it doesn't take into account is:
1. What is a small amount?
2. Was the staking machine set perfectly so as to always move the same amount of brass to secure the primer?
3. Could a weak spot be created in the brass by excessive staking and removing?
4. There is an assumption that the cutting is done perfectly and without any error in set up and execution.
5. Are there room for errors in the cutting process?
That is why, FOR ME, I didn't want to take the chance and just went ahead and moved the stakes instead of removing them. That's the great part of reloading, we have so many great tools and information these days! Could not be a better time to be a reloader.
rockquarry
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You must be an attorney.
All I knowd there is what I seen with my own eyes.
Not trying to convince anyone that chamfering is better or worse. If you want to spend the money on a dillion or RCBS tool then you should just do that. You'll be a lot happier because you spent the money on a tool that's marketed for that specific task.
Like I said. I have the RCBS tool and used both methods. I like simple inexpensive solutions. If a new guy is trying to cut costs using military brass they don't need a $150 or even a $115 tool.
YMMV
I'm not an attorney. Your handloading experience may far overshadow mine, but I was curious about the alleged primer pocket distortion when using an RCBS primer pocket swaging tool. If this can happen and you've actually seen it, I'd like to know as would others who use this tool. I won't pursue the matter further.
Think about it. The only brass (if much) that is removed by reaming is the EXTRA used by the primer crimp
Spurdann
Member
I scrap or sell my crimped brass and reload the commercial brass.
Dennis2149
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I have a lot of .223 range brass that have what I would describe as a crimping ring around the inside edge of the primer pocket. Will a hand tool like a Lyman Hand Reamer actually remove said crimping ring without damaging the pocket???
