38/357 Brass Question

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Blue357

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I am new to reloading for revolver cartridges (have been loading auto cartridges for years), and have noticed that most of the 38 special and 357 Mag. brass that I have saved has what looks similar to crimp groove markings 1/4 down from the case mouth of the brass. Can someone please help me understand what purpose this serves? I have included a picture of Federal 357 Mag brass in question for reference. Any information is appreciated.

Thanks,
Blue
 

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It's called a cannelure crimp. Supposedly it helps prevent the bullet from being pushed back into the case. The story I heard was it started with tub-fed lever rifles and for some manufacturers the practice carried on.

I still get some from time to time.
 
After the new cartridge with the cannelure is fired the case is fire formed smooth inside so reloading the case it's irrelivent.
 
No problem reloading those, with one caveat; some (older) 38 Special cases had a double cannelure lower on the brass case. These were match wadcutter brass & had a longer untapered straight case wall (inside) than the standard cases.

This allows the deep seated wadcutter (DEWC) bullet to not hit the thicker wall of the case toward the case head. These thin-walled cases should not be used for high pressure loads.

.
 
Thank you for the quick responses, and the additional information about the 38 special cases with the two cannelure crimps on the brass (I have a lot of that too). I'm going to proceed with case prep and load these.

Happy shooting!
 
I haven't seen any newly manufactured cases with cannelures, doubt if that is still done. I doubt that it prevents bullets from being seated too deeply as it is so shallow. I think they were used more as identification than anything.
 
They still make cases with a "C"..............

2uzui46.jpg
 
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Nevada Ed said:
They still make cases with a "C"..............

2uzui46.jpg
Click to expand...

It is still made as I also have a box of nickel plated Remington HTP (LSWC-HP) that has the double cannelure. I bought the box a few months ago in new packaging so not old stock.
 
They may be ok for heavy loads....

...but I can't help but feel that the cannelure weakens them for repeated reloading. I've seen cases separate on the cannelure. I'm not sure though, if it's the cannelure or just cheap 'one shot' brass.
 
RW, I have some 38 Special cases that have the cannelure on them dating back to the 70's with only God knows how many loadings on them. I've not seen any correlation to the cannelure on the case and cracking on 38 Special at least. I load them along with the non-cannelured cases, no problems.
 
BLUEDOT37 said:
some (older) 38 Special cases had a double cannelure lower on the brass case.
These were match wadcutter brass & had a longer untapered straight case wall (inside) than the standard cases. .
Click to expand...

Just did a quick check comparing the 38 Spcl wadcutter double cannelure brass walls to a 38 Spcl (+P)'s brass walls.

Using a .350" plug gage (the biggest that would pass by the inside ridges caused by the double cannelures), it would extend ~.725" into the wadcutter double cannelure case but only ~.460" into the (+P) case, a difference of ~.260". Both had been deprimed/sized with the same sizer.

That shows the wadcutter's straighter walls & the (+P)s thicker more tapered lower walls.

The wadcutter's walls only start getting thick just below it's lower cannelure while the (+P)'s starts getting thicker higher, where the upper cannelure would be on it, if it had one.

Don't see how anyone can argue that thinner case walls are just as strong as thicker ones. Save the wadcutter brass for standard pressure 38 Spcl. loads.

.
 
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Like others, I have double cannelure brass that has been reloaded a gazillion times and the only splits I ever get are at the mouth of the case. I've never seen one do anything at the cannelure ring. All mid-range DEWC target loadings, of course. Been shooting bullseye and reloading for over 50 years.

Stu
 
BLUEDOT37 said:
Just did a quick check comparing the 38 Spcl wadcutter double cannelure brass walls to a 38 Spcl (+P)'s brass walls.

Using a .350" plug gage (the biggest that would pass by the inside ridges caused by the double cannelures), it would extend ~.725" into the wadcutter double cannelure case but only ~.460" into the (+P) case, a difference of ~.260". Both had been deprimed/sized with the same sizer.

That shows the wadcutter's straighter walls & the (+P)s thicker more tapered lower walls.

The wadcutter's walls only start getting thick just below it's lower cannelure while the (+P)'s starts getting thicker higher, where the upper cannelure would be on it, if it had one.

Don't see how anyone can argue that thinner case walls are just as stronger as thicker ones. Save the wadcutter brass for standard pressure 38 Spcl. loads.

.
Click to expand...

So the 357 Mag brass in the above links is then weak??

How many BRANDS of brass did you analyze?

There is no difference in non +P and +P brass, Only the headstamp.

Buy some new brass, say Starline, does it say for 38 special only and do not load +P??
 
RWSMITH;

So what about the Winchester 357 magnum Brass case that did not
have a cannalure on it...............that split all the way around it
on one of my shootings.
I kept it for my PC shelf as a reminder that "Stuff happens".

Should I not load full 357 Mag. loads in non-"C" cases any more ?
Are they weak cases too!! ??
 
Rule3 said:
So the 357 Mag brass in the above links is then weak??

How many BRANDS of brass did you analyze?

There is no difference in non +P and +P brass, Only the headstamp.

Buy some new brass, say Starline, does it say for 38 special only and do not load +P??
Click to expand...

Maybe you should re-read my posts? Completely.

You're not talking about what I am, best I can tell.

If you still don't understand, don't let it bother you. I won't. ;)

.
 
BLUEDOT37 said:
Maybe you should re-read my posts? Completely.

You're not talking about what I am, best I can tell.

If you still don't understand, don't let it bother you. I won't. ;)

.
Click to expand...

You are saying that 38 Wadcutter" brass is different than regular 38 brass because it has a crimp line or a cannelure in the brass.

After the brass is resized it makes no difference, it is not different brass only a cannelure has been formed on it,

Same as with 357 mag.

Once the brass is fired and expands/contracts and then reformed (resized) it again makes no difference.
 
Rule3 said:
You are saying that 38 Wadcutter" brass is different than regular 38 brass because it has a crimp line or a cannelure in the brass.

After the brass is resized it makes no difference, it is not different brass only a cannelure has been formed on it,

Same as with 357 mag.

Once the brass is fired and expands/contracts and then reformed (resized) it again makes no difference.
Click to expand...

Edit:

Be sure to only load mouse fart, wad cutters in this brass.;)

Federal Premium Personal Defense Ammo 38 Special +P 129 - MPN: P38HS1

Remington UMC Ammo 38 Special 158 Grain Lead Round Nose
 
muddocktor said:
RW, I have some 38 Special cases that have the cannelure on them dating back to the 70's with only God knows how many loadings on them. I've not seen any correlation to the cannelure on the case and cracking on 38 Special at least. I load them along with the non-cannelured cases, no problems.
Click to expand...

I bought some HBWC and am going to run standard pressure loads in the 500 38 special cases I have with 2.6-3.0 grains of Bullseye for 750-800 fps (and wow has the price on Bullseye doubled! Crazy!) I really enjoy shooting 38 special loads to work on my revolver reloads and just general fun in my 696P 4". For high end loads of h110 I think I'll stick to fresh Starline brass and run moderate magnums in the Federal cases that have the cannelure. Lots of great information from all, and I most appreciate the response and information. Thank you
 
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