270 WSM Reloading, Win Brass update

The Norseman

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I'm going to start reloading for the 270 WSM (Winchester Short Magnum).
Bullets I have are 90gr, 100gr, 130gr, 150gr.

Please share your advise, what components you use, and your
experiences.
 

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My win model 70 bolt action did not do well with bullets under 130grs when I started loading my "Stock" .270.
Tried the old 150 sp flat base and the accuracy was lacking.

Later I tried the Sierra 140 spbt and it did great with 4064 and got high fps with 4350 &4831.
I use the 140 Accubond for Elk, loaded with IMR 4831 at 2990 fps.
I also have a "Hot weather load" for Antelope with a 130 boattail with 4831 moving along at just 2700 fps that puts 4 loads at .61" at 100 yards.

Your short Magnum has plenty of power for hunting, so a full load is not really needed but you need to see what weight bullet works and at what speed.



Have fun.
 
In the good old 270, I’ve always gotten better results with bullets of at least 130 gr. than the lighter bullets. I primarily use 4831.

In the short necked 270 WSM case, homogeneous bullets take up a lot of space. You’ll do best with lead core bullets.
 
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If by chance you use 4831 powder..........
Hodgdon has some "Short cut" that is smaller in size and tends to meter better through a powder thrower.

I don't care about metering, I just dump, trickle and dump into a case, no matter how long it takes me.
I use any powder and am just glad that I have it.

For 20 years I just loaded for best "Groups" at 100 yards with the different type of powders and primers that I had........
staying under the maximum loads in my manuals.

As I got older, I learned that a 90% load killed a deer just as quick as a full load "Teeth Chattering" 100% maximum load that had all the recoil that you could get.

A chrony is not mandatory but it can add extra data, for you.

You might also check the rifles bedding and the odds and ends while you are at it.

Good shooting.
 
What's your game? Whitetail, muly, etc, I'd go with the 130 to 150 grain cup and core bullets. I don't use solid copper so I won't comment on those.

If you load lighter weight bullets to their full potential I'd expect some barrel life issues.

I haven't loaded for the short magnums in several years, and I'm working strictly from memory.

The powders I recall using often with the WSM were H4831, and H414/W760.

Seems like I remember Reloader 19 delivering well too.

Varget worked much better than I ever expected in the short magnum rounds.
 
Safe and Sound

Thank you for the Replies, and chime in if you have hints, advice, any advice.


If by chance you use 4831
powder..........
Hodgdon has some "Short cut" that is smaller in size and tends
to meter better through a powder thrower.

I don't care about metering, I just dump, trickle and dump into
a case, no matter how long it takes me. I use any powder and
am just glad that I have it.

For 20 years I just loaded for best "Groups" at 100 yards with
the different type of powders and primers that I had........
staying under the maximum loads in my manuals.

As I got older, I learned that a 90% load killed a deer just as
quick as a full load "Teeth Chattering" 100% maximum load
that had all the recoil that you could get.

A chrony is not mandatory but it can add extra data, for you.

You might also check the rifles bedding and the odds and ends
while you are at it. Good shooting.

Wow! I thought I was the only one that reloaded by NOT mass
production methods. I have no reason for a Progressive Press,
never have, probably never will. I reload in small batches
of 20 - 50 rounds.

Anyway, all very good advice, will check all.

I am looking forward to this new venture.

Reloading Revolver Bullets.
 

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I have 100 round ammo boxes for my target ammo but for my hunting ammo, I seldom shoot more than 20 rounds at a session with the higher fps loads that need the barrel to cool down, which can take a while when the temp's get above 50 degrees, with 4 shot groups.

If the barrel is new..............
you need to fire 4 & clean, fire 4 & clean for five times, to gently break in the barrel and remove any fowling.

Some just let it rip and don't break in a barrel.........
what ever you think will work out for you.

I do recommend a breach tool to start the cleaning rod with in the chamber area and never start the rod at the muzzle end.

Tight groups.
 
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I am a lifelong user of the standard 270 Winchester and never found it lacking. I also have and have used the 270 WSM. It is OK for what it is but if it kills deer sized game any better than the standard I sure cannot tell it. As far as downloading the WSM why do that when a standard does the same more efficiently.
 
My stock Remington 700 CDL in "regular" .270 likes 130 grain Nosler Ballistic Tips on top of 58 grains of H4831 Super Short Cut with a Federal Large Rifle Primers in Winchester Cases. Deer drop like they were struck by the Hammer of Thor. Group sizes when fired from a rest average around one-half inch at 100 yards. Hope this helps.
 
There are a lot of quality "Bonded" bullets out there for dangerous game but for just a deer.I use the cheap (then) sierra 130 & 140 gr SPBT bullet in my .270.

First it is accurate and second, I have never shot a deer or had one go more than 30 yards after being hit with a lung or heart shot.
My last buck was was lightly brushing its horns with another smaller buck, as the heard worked up the hill to lay down after coming from small stream.
He was the lower Buck on the hill and at the shot, he just raised up his for end and flipped backwards, onto its back , lights out. The other buck just looked at him, as to say, "Wow, did I just do that" ??

Here is a picture of the 130 gr Sierra that did the job.
It is not pretty and not what the company wants them to look like but they do the job.
 
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What twist rate? Generally, I would avoid anything under 130gr for this round due to the velocity. I generally shoot for 2850-3150 for an accuracy load.

For brass, I see you have WIN brass. I would get out the RCBS casemaster and look at neck thickness variation. In my 300 WSM, I had to cut them to 0.013” in order to get the thin spots within +/-0.0005”. PITA.

Hornady might be better.

As a side note, this is not required to shoot 1 moa.

Powder....H4831sc and re26 come to mind.

Primers....I use federal 215 gmm, but others will work.

Look at long Berger bullets too. Very good bullets.

Lee dies are interesting....if runout is under 0.003”, hunting loads should be fine...heck, maybe 0.005”.
 
I have targets and a Hornady concentricity gauge that tells me time and again that Lee dies work, they work quite well.

If you're loading for one turnbolt rifle and your die set doesn't include a collett neck sizing die, I highly recommend getting one.

It not only extends case life and eliminates the need of case lube, it also gives you brass fire formed to your specific chamber.
 
Bad Brass

I got a 270WSM MTM 50rd blue hinged plastic ammo box. I opened
the Winchester Bag of 270WSM to store them my new MTM box.

I had read rumors that Winchester 270WSM brass had "Out of
Round" primer flash holes.

Wow! while inspecting mine over, sure enough about 30 have
oblong flash holes. Two had "V" dented shoulders.

Length of the Cartridges miked between 2.090 to 2.099, (2.100
is text book length).

I anguished over this for awhile. I'm going to prepare 25 cartridges,
and reload 3 to try. Rifle is not set up with Scope yet anyways.

I want this Winchester Brass, because of reading that it holds
up better than high priced brands.

I will be actually writing Winchester a letter to tell them my
Excitement to shoot my new Rifle and the Disappointment in
the new Win 270WSM brass cartridges.

Thank you for reading my post.

If you look close at the bottom ones those are some of the
oblong flash holes.
 

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I wouldn't get my dander up over it. I routinely run a flash hole uniformer through every piece of rifle brass I acquire, new or used. The dents will probably come out on the first firing. Did the cases come in a plastic bag? Thus the dents. It happens. As for the length, they all fall between SAMMI max and trim-to lengths. I assume you'll resize and trim before use anyhow.
 
Cleaniness is the next....

Thank you for reading my post and the advise.

Understand. Tumble/Walnut cleaning them up now.
I will size them. I will trim to min. 2.090. I do have an
Interior Debur Tool for the Flash Holes, I will try that too.
 

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While You are at it get a flash hole uniformer also. I think they are made by lyman. As long as You are uniforming the primer pocket might as well do the flash hole. I also like to outside turn the necks. What range are You using up there?
 
Ready, Get set.....

Well after three days of Cleaning Sizing Chamfering Measuring
Trimming Deburring Inspecting, I'm ready to Reload my first
three 270WSM's.
 

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All that "Upkeep" done on a rifle case is fine and dandy but........

don't get carried away with the reaming and removing all that brass and shavings from all your cases..........
since once removed it is not coming back.

I take out just the "High spots" if I can and don't remove any material unless it is mandatory and might try to improve an off center primer flash hole if it does not make it over size.

I don't big deal it, now that my eyes, nerves and muscle tone is the pits and most 12 year olds can out shoot me.

Have fun.
 
Keepers?

Good advise. I was careful and didn't get carried away. Cleaning
and Sizing went really easy.

As far as Deburring the interior Flash Holes I did as you said, took
off the "High Spots". In the Primer Pocket some Holes needed a
light slight attention. All went well.

Trimming is +/- .002 of 2.093 length. Neck thickness was surprisingly
consistent on all, no "Crescent Moons".

So far their turning out to be keepers, but still disappointed in
Winchester's Quality Control.

I just took my time in between chores.
 

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