Hey everyone, novice to reloading and had some curiosity questions if anyone had time to educate. I think I understand on the cast boolits, low velocity and lower pressure work best?

Can someone dive into what the gas rings/checks are for and if it's a dealbreaker with certain calibers if they are not present?

Also, the term "hard cast". Does this mean the same thing to everyone? Does this limit the leading of a barrel?

I apologize for the questions, I'm just attempting to devour and soak up as much information as possible. Thank you in advance!

1. Cast bullets can be used in both handguns and rifles for a broad range of performance, from plinking ammunition to hunting pretty large game animals. The higher velocities and pressures require the best possible fit of the bullet to the lands and grooves, adequate bullet alloys (hardness) to withstand the pressures, and sufficient bullet lubrication.

2. Gas checks are typically a copper alloy cup that seats on the bullet base (requiring a cast bullet intended to accept the gas check). The purposes are to protect the bullet base from flame temperatures of the propellant powder, and to provide a scraping action through the bore to minimize leading transfer.

3. "Hard cast" generally refers to the use of bullet alloys containing metals that are harder than pure lead, such as tin and antimony. The higher the levels of alloying metals the harder the finished bullet will be. Harder bullets are less subject to deformation under pressures of firing and passing through the bore, and exhibit less deformation upon impact. Very hard bullet alloys can become brittle to a point that impact may result in fragmentation.

The above is a real thumb-nail explanation. I regularly use cast bullets in handgun and rifle cartridges ranging from .25-20 Winchester up to .45-90 Winchester and .45 Sharps Express, and at velocities from less than 900FPS to over 2500FPS (depending on cartridge and application). I have taken hundreds of different small game animals and birds as well as deer, antelope, and Rocky Mountain Elk (live weight over 600 lbs.). I generally use bullet metals of about BHN 12 for handgun and BHN 16-22 for rifle cartridges. BHN means Brinell Hardness Number, an industry standard for rating relative hardness of certain metals such as lead alloys. I do not use gas checks for most handgun loads, but I use them for rifle loads (.25, .30, .32, .33, .35, and .45 calibers) at velocities from 1400 to 2500FPS or so.

For an excellent primer on cast bullets in general I would recommend you obtain the Lyman Reloading Handbook, and if possible a copy of the excellent NRA publication "Cast Bullets" by Col. E.H. Harrison (long out of print, but occasionally seen on eBay and other on-line sources). Everything from bullet alloys, gas checks, bullet casting, sizing, lubrication, and specific advice for just about any application, presented for beginners to advanced users.

I've been casting bullets since 1973. It has been a long, long time since I purchased any factory ammo to speak of, and I find that cast bullets meet nearly all of my shooting and hunting needs. Also one of the most fascinating aspects of the shooting sports.

Best regards.

LoboGunLeather gives an excellent nutshell overview.

I GREATLY appreciate that overview!!! This is why I enjoy this forum.

clarification only: What about the "rings" on the sides of the bullet. Is this also part of the gas check?

Again, The explanation was exactly what I was inquiring about. Casting bullets is a "down the road" venture at this point, but due to circumstances outside our control, may be a sooner than later time.....

Thank you!

J

NOTE:

found a copy on Amazon (because of course Amazon has one) could see it next week. Thanks again!

J

OP it'd be a whole lot easier if you'd tell us what you want to do . Like LoboGunLeather I too also shoot cast in both handguns & rifles everything from plinking , hunting , bullseye . It's a broad subject & so much is possible . The more details the better . Caliber , firearm , intended use etc. You mentioned hard cast ...... if you mean 95% of commercially produced bullets you're going about this the wrong way . For best results a cast bullet must fit the gun . I can't stress this enough . Lube is also important as is alloy selection . Majority of commercial casters use an alloy & lube that are not optimum for every use . Hard bullets & lube are easier to ship & work better with automated equipment .

These are gas checks.
.223 / 5.56 mm Caliber Gator Gas Checks

The bands on the sides you asked about are the driving bands. They're what actually engage the rifling and make the bullet spin.

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You will notice some of the grooves between the driving bands are deeper and closer to the rear of the bullet. those are "lube grooves". Lube is usually a wax and alox mixture, on smokeless loads it reduces leading, on Black Powder loads it also keeps the fouling soft, all of this helps accuracy over a shooting session and easier cleaning when done.

The shallow groove closest to the nose of the bullet is the "crimp groove", and is used to lock the bullet into the case mouth. Crimps are typically; roll crimp on rimmed cartridges, and taper crimp on rimless. There are thousands of articles about how much crimp to use, just know: DO NOT USE A HEAVY CRIMP on a near maximum load unless the data call for it!

Ivan

I second the purchase of a Lyman Reloading Handbook!! It will get you started in the right direction.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

I shoot my own cast bullets exclusively in all my weapons ranging from 22 hornet to 458 winchester magnum!

When I first saw the OP I knew there was a lot more to the question than met the eye. Then LoboGunLeather laid it all out in a nice summary and I thought we were done. But as the little details start to unfold it becomes a maze of rabbit trails that many of us just take for granted.

Kind of like driving a car. If you think it's a simple task, take a freshly minted Learner's Permit out for a spin. I started chattering at the girl as we were going around a corner and she forgot to turn the wheel back to straight.

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You might want to drift over to castboolits.gunloads. They are the absolute authorities on cast bullet loads. Warning: you will be jumping into the deep end of the pool so it might be a little tough at first.

Ed

great info guys,

Like I mentioned before. I'm all about getting information long before a "jump in" moment occurs. I am procuring resources and watching lots of videos since I actually do not cast....yet. I appreciate ALL the feedback and realize that there is way more too it than what I simply requested. But that's life, every day, there is something new to learn, no matter what our age and status in life.

Happy Wednesday!

J

BTW...they are BULLETS, not boolets.

Sometimes we call them boolits, just for fun.

The Cast Bullet Association sells an excellent instruction manual. I highly recommend you get it. It doesn't have load data, only how-to information. Go there. Do yourself a favor and go to their website and get this book:
Cast Bullets For Beginner and Expert|Cast Bullet Association Store

"Boolits" (not "Boolets") is a term often used by bullet casters to differentiate themselves from those that use bullets that are covered with *gasp* copper.

Hence, castboolits.com...

"Correct" English? no. But it is a well accepted part of reloading vernacular.

I once ran into a couple of guys deep in the mountains in Northern Georgia. We had a nice little visit. They really do call them "boolits" there. But so do us casters.

I was thinking the source location might be East Tennessee but Northern Georgia will do!

Just to add to what Lobo posted, the topic of lead hardness is an important one in deciding what BHN lead bullet to purchase or what lead hardness to cast if you roll your own. Chamber pressures are one of the better ways to help determine what hardness bullet you should purchase or cast. It is not easy to find lead hardness versus velocity charts and I have actually never found a chart that even estimates the hardness numbers recommended at various velocities. From a design standpoint, however, reloading manuals have stated pressures for most loads available using lead bullets. A simple calculation to come up with a good approximation where one should start with regards to BHN is to use chamber pressure.

Optimum BHN = PSI / (1422*.9)

Since I cast almost all calibers now, I have been buying lead from many sources when I find it at the right price, but it is always a guess at how hard or soft the lead is, even if the sellers think they know. I can tell you that a very good and affordable BHN tester is the Lee Hardness Testing Kit and can be purchased for under $100.

One story about the importance of selecting proper lead hardness was my long journey of trying to come up with accurate loading for my 45-90 Uberti Sharps. I had been shooting muzzleloaders for years and started casting round ball ammo for each caliber I owned. As many know, round ball shooting uses pure lead (BHN: 5), and I soon started casting for my 45-90 using the same soft lead for bullets without giving it much thought. I tried every weight, shape bullet mold available with poor accuracy results.

Fortunately, I ran across an article about problems of using a lead bullet too soft the intended velocity. The author stated that low BHN lead can strip past the rifling as it travels through the barrel. So I started alloying my lead to match the above formula and found that a BHN of 15 would be the recommended hardness. My search for a solution ended with the simple solution of using harder bullet. The rifle is now capable of hitting a steel gong at 300 yards all day without ever missing!! Now to go for 600 yards!!

Of course, this is a subjective approach using estimates and approximations, but it will certainly help with determining where to start. Worked for me.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

I on the other hand, go by alloy characteristics. For Black powder Cartridges I use 30:1 (97% lead: 3% Tin) or 20:1 (95% Lead:5% Tin, 9+/-BHN).

For Modern handgun and sub 1400 fps rifle I use Lyman #2 alloy (90% lead,5% tin, 5% antimony)

For faster velocity I use Wheel Weights (95.5% lead, .5% tin,4% antimony/8.9BHN air cooled 27.1 BHN tempered) or Linotype (86%lead,3%tin,11% antimony/21.8BHN) or Gas Checked bullets of a softer alloy.

For target velocity handguns (around 700 fps) you will want a 7 or so BHN.

For my 45-70 "Must Stop Everything" load I use a 400 grain tempered wheel Weight bullet (27.1BHN) with Gas Check at 2150 fps in a Marlin Guide Gun (will penetrate 1/4"+ steel also block walls!)

The other area of alloy choice is as cast diameter. Different alloys shrink differently as they cool some actually expand!

All this is covered in the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #4 (5 is out now) along with loading data for 70 rifle and 23 handgun cartridges!

Ivan

Excellent! Moving right into the post-grad courses here.

When loading cast bullets ... use data developed for cast lead bullets ...
Do not use data for jacketed bullets (the powder charge) and substitute a cast bullet , even if the bullet weight is the same , the bullet hardness is a big difference .
Best source for learning and data , Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook 4th Edition.
Order one and study the first 18 chapters ...Information that is invaluable . After that comes Rifle Loading Data then Handgun Loading Data and after that more useful information ...
I started casting in 1967 with a Lyman Cast Bullet Manual , Lyman Basic Casting Kit and a 1-cavity Lyman mould and learned everything from " The Lyman Book" ...get one and study it from cover to cover .
Gary

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NRA Member

I started reloading in 1971. As a poor college kid I needed to be frugal if I wanted to shoot much. I started casting boolits in 1975 after I got married and bought a house, just because it looked like fun and I now had a nice basement to work in.

At the time my Dad was a printer, and I had an endless supply of linotype, plus a friend owned a garage, which gave me an endless supply of wheel weights.

Early on I tailored my lead formulas just like detailed above. Eventually, Dad and my friend retired, thus my lead supply dried up. About 1998 I switched to using 100% wheel weights because that was my most economical source of lead.

I cast several different rifle boolits (all gas checked) and a half dozen handgun varieties. I target shoot at an indoor club range, and plink a bit outdoors. I'm not into league shooting any more. I'm sure boolit composition matters, but truthfully my one-size-fits-all formula works for me. With my bifocals I can't see the target any more anyways...

About 10 years ago my state outlawed lead WWs in favor of zinc. At that time I started buying massive quantities wherever I could find them, including EBay. By my calculations my stockpile will last me until I'm 85.

Well, I'll throw in a question here...

Is an 18 BHN coated 200gr bullet too "hard" for 45 Colt (Regular, not HIGH TEST=Ruger ONLY) use?

Cheers!

It depends on two things: Does it shoot accurately in your gun(s)? and Do you need more expansion than a thumb sized hole?

If the answers are first Yes and then No, you are good to go!

Ivan

There is an excellent new internet book out there now: "From Ingot to Target, a cast bullet guide for handgunners". Free and in PDF format. Fairly long, but also very extensive. I noticed it on Castboolits and downloaded it. Copyrighted, but you can download it for your own use.
From Ingot to Target: A Cast Bullet Guide For Handgunners, Table of Contents - Fryxell/Applegate

It is a "A joint effort by Glen E. Fryxell and Robert L. Applegate". A foreword by John Taffin. I have not been casting very long, and it has been a source of very good information for me.

Hey OP,

Although you may not be casting right now; the information you are learning about boolits is required for optimal handloading.

Trying to size a boolit correctly to a single gun is only done after slugging the barrel and pin gauging the cylinders for their diameter. Or you can always just shoot it and look for problems and successes.

Handloading is an incredibly great hobby all by itself. I spend 5 to 1 of my time at the loading bench versus the firing line. Covid 19 quarantines and winter cold makes handloading my best stress reliever out there.

I have two options you should pursue:

I strongly suggest finding a mentor/tutor to get you started. You can save months of frustration and errors. I guarantee you their are folks in your area who would do so with pleasure.

Second is picking one caliber to start. Learn the stuff you're on now for one caliber before moving on. You really don't need the complexity and expense until you get a little more seasoned.

How do you plan on recording your data?

Enjoy and stay safe,
Prescut

I cannot thank you all enough regarding the welcoming advice. Yes I am not casting at the moment but I am a big proponent of research before making big commitments.

I’m acquiring the suggested resources for reading and will definitely look for a local person to assist also.

Merry Christmas all y’all,

J

That's basically between Lyman #2 and straight Linotype.

I dunno the answer but I can say that in my experience Linotype is too hard, while #2 is OK. If it were me I would want them to be softer than 18.

OTOH, I have no experience with coated boolits, so once again I dunno.

So, here is MY question of the day....
Do coated bullets obturate like regular lubed bullets?

Haven't loaded any up, yet...

I appreciate the response: was more concerned about leading at, say 850-900 fps using that hard of a bullet. The "Cowboy Action" boolits are typically considerably softer, and that's not exactly my bag: more target & SD (possibly?) than a hunting scenerio...

Am I going too high velocity wise?

Cheers!

You can also get some bullets, load them, and see how they work. Don't overthink it.

I've loaded many thousands of commercially cast bullets in .38 Special, .41 Magnum, and .45 ACP all at mid-range velocities and for the most part there were very few problems.

The whole idea of "optimum" alloy is ridiculous. What you calculate is the maximum hardness that will still allow the bullet to "swell up" under pressure and help seal the bore. Thus, the "optimum" alloy is really the hardest alloy that will have any chance of sealing the bore.
Better to stick with softer alloys and make sure the bullet diameter is large enough to seal the bore. I have had a lot more leading with hard (18-22 BHN) bullets than with my "soft" 11-14 BHN bullets. After 1500-1700 fps, I start using gas checks, but the same alloy.

You may have noticed that you are not saving any money reloading. You will save even less when you are a bullet caster. The problems are easy to understand. For simplicity let us assume a $100 monthly budget for ammo and the time is January 2020:

#1] You start shooting more because the cost of ammo drops significantly when you reload. That first box of reloaded ammo cost about $300 after buying powder, primers, dies, press, scale, dial caliper, and a case trimmer thingey from Lee.

#2] Because you are shooting more cheap ammo, you start hanging out at gun shows where bulk powder is $100 for 5# instead of $25 for 1#. A thousand primers are $28 instead of $3.50 for 100. 500 cast bullets are only $48 instead of $17 for 100 jacketed.

#3] Now you want to start casting your own lead bullets. Moulds, sizer / luber, melting pot, lead, more lead, more lube, and savings are apparent but you sure are buying a lot of expensive stuff. Much more than that original $100 monthly ammo budget. Where do you keep all this wonderful stuff? It isn't in the kitchen cupboard -- you didn't check with the wife first did you?

#4] More shooting means more productive equipment; progressive press, 6 cavity moulds, better case prep equipment. Now you want another gun, another caliber, a different barrel length.

YOU HAVE FALLEN DOWN THE SLIPPERY SLOPE ! How did I ever go shooting with a single gun, pack of targets, staple gun, and target frame?

I probably have a $100,000 dollar inventory of shooting, reloading, and casting stuff I just had to have and a wife that likes to shoot. Ignoring any retirement accounts, employer savings plans or stock investments, my savings from reloading and casting bullets has never exceeded about $500 judging by the savings account balances for the past 45 years. Very few people admit to something like this.

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S&WHF 366

@OP,

You are getting a wealth of great, accurate advice here. Allow me to add my two cents.

I started casting around 2001, right after my first divorce, and I purchased virtually all of the requisite bells and whistles. Ninety-nine percent of the bullets that I cast came from wheel weights and were quench cast (dropped from the mold into a bucket of water), which kinda "flash hardened" the bullets.

Honestly, if I were going to start casting today, I wouldn't do it the way most of us started with a lubri-sizer. The last I looked, a Lyman lubri-sizer goes for at least two hundred dollars. For each bullet style (and in many cases, caliber) you need a unique top punch (about $20). Additionally, for each caliber that you cast, you need a separate and unique sizing die (about $30). Presume that you are casting only 1 bullet (say a 38 148 gr wadcutter), your initial lubri-sizer expense is at least $250. That is a hefty investment in today's economy.

For a new caster, I would suggest that they cast with the intent of powder coating their bullets. You would need a dedicated toaster oven (never to be used for food) that you could purchase new for about $25. A bag of quality powder will run about $20 and coat between 1500-2000 bullets, if not more. You can get (during normal times) a Lee bullet sizer kit for about $25. Your initial start up cost is now about $70 versus $250+.

NOTE: if you cast with the intention of powder coating, you CAN'T quench cast your bullets!

DOUBLE NOTE: if you are casting bullets for use in a Glock, you need to powder coat, since the type of rifling used in Glocks IS NOT lead bullet friendly.

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Judge control not gun control!

Pan lubing is also a viable option. Simple, inexpensive, reasonably fast. There's a guy on eBay selling a newer version of the "Kake Kutter". He calls it "Bob's Bullet Lube Kit".

Now that I went looking for it there's another guy selling a different one.

Good morning all, I sure am thankful for a great thread here!

I do not want to "go down a rabbit hole" too far as each of y'alls time is valuable and important, BUT......

powder coating obviously has it's advantages, as listed above....but can someone dive into what/where is this process REQUIRED for proper bullet operation?

powder coat everything?

or only powder coat bullets that will be supersonic?

just curious on this subject...(until my books arrive :P)

J

Yes! Same general area if you think about it. I was not that far from Chattanooga.

But back to the OP. Go out and get some lead store-bought bullets for a revolver and load those just for the experience. Start from there.

Powder coat everything. If it moves, powder coat it. If it doesn't move, powder coat it. I recently coated 2100+ 9mm in an afternoon. My effort was about 5 minutes per batch so I had about 45 minutes of actual work involved. I'll run them through the $20 Lee sizer as I use them.

That rabbit hole starts over on the "Cast Boolit" forum.

ETA: Here's Elvis Ammo demonstrating the simplicity of powder coating:

ETA again: Actually, this is closer to my madcap method:


You can complicate it, sometimes for good reason (precision rifle projectiles) but for pistol bullets...

I recommend powder from Smoke4320 over on the Cast Boolit forum. I've found it very forgiving of my imprecise method.

Yes, in fact I have been looking for an excuse to post the family photo below. About 6,000 bullets I've made in the last month or so.

Attached Images

bullet-line-up.jpg (107.4 KB, 24 views)

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One of the nice things about 45 caliber bullets, their diameter starts where smaller bullets expand to! In the days of Round Nose pure lead bullets. it wasn't considered a serious handgun, if the caliber didn't start with a 4!

Coated bullets are very good about not leading below 1600 to 1800 fps. but at less than 900fps, you won't have leading from any of the alloys on plane/flat base bullets. (There is still the whole issue about throat size and groove diameter relationship, but that is far less common than complained about!)

A fad that started in the late 80's/early 90's is Bevel Base Bullets. They are cast bullets that have very tiny boat tails. Their ONLY benefit is you don't bell the case mouth during reloading. Years ago Lyman proved they are less accurate under their normal test conditions, and tend to lead up barrels! (I think Lyman was hoping they were better than flat base bullets, so they could sell all new molds to everyone!) These are usually seen with a "Truncated Cone" (meaning flat tip and taper, but no shoulder like a SWC). They were intended to be a "Fits All" bullet for autos and revolvers, but are not! You still see these for many commercial casters, Why? They are easier to make, and they already have the mold(s) and many people like not belling the brass!

Ivan

Powder coating is not required for proper bullet operation. I see it as an alternative to sizing and lubricating the bullet with a wax-based compound. Powder coating eliminates the lubricant, which burns when the cartridge is fired and produces smoke.

You can powder coat virtually any bullet, but I have seen recommendations to not push a powder coated bullet over 1300 fps.

You don't have to limit your use of powder coated bullets to supersonic loads. Powder coating basically encapsulates the lead bullet, so it reduces the emission of lead.

Personally, I will be powder coating any bullets that will be fired in a Glock, along with any bullet cast from a Lee mold that I can't locate a top punch for. At this point in time, that means that I will be powder coating: 9mm 125gr RN, 40 cal 175gr TC, and 45 cal 230gr TC. Everything else that I cast will be processed through my lubri-sizer.

A point to keep in mind, you haven't cast a single bullet yet, so you don't really know if casting is something that you will want to pursue! From that perspective, why invest close to $400 or $500 in casting equipment, that you may dump at a loss should you decide that casting isn't for you? As you may have noticed, prices on popular auction sites have mushroomed if the item has anything to do with guns, shooting, or reloading.

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Judge control not gun control!

I used to cast my own bullets, then lube and size them. There is a lot of satisfaction in being able to shoot your own bullets and reloads. Using two molds, a Lyman 4 cavity 429421 and a .38 mold 150 grain semi wadcutter (I forget the mold number). Using both molds, I could cast about 1000 bullets in a day of casting, then size/lube them on demand. I had a Lyman bottom pour 20 pound furnace.

Back then, there were very few commercial casting businesses, so buying bullets was seldom an option.

Now there are several good operations providing quality bullets at reasonable prices, as well as USPS reasonable priced shipping. I find that it is easier to get more bullets by writing a check than by casting my own, and can shoot more.
While I enjoyed casting, it sure is easier just to buy what you need!

Just another view

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

You & I are on exactly the same page. A few years ago our Kalifornistan critters made it pretty clear that we reloaders were on their radar and some pretty hefty "per bullet" "Public safety taxes" were being discussed.

That's when I started collecting scrap lead.

Be aware... it's almost as deep a rabbit hole as guns and reloading themselves.

Lyman 4-cavity molds are about $100 and are heavy. Lee 6-cavity molds are about $35 and weigh 1/3 as much. Using my Lee 6 mould, I can cast about 1,000 bullets in 90 minutes or a full 3# metal coffee can with my 20# RCBS pot. Using a Lyman 4-cavity mould, takes about 2.5 hours to cast 1K bullets, need a tool to open sprue plate. I start timing with a full hot pot, hot mould, and another 15# of clean ingots. Getting ready to cast can take 45 minutes.

Using my Lee moulds, it is easy to cast 4K of bullets in a day of proper weather conditions, 50° and sunny. Casting is not something you do willingly in July or August.

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S&WHF 366

OP, just an aside, back when I started casting in the early 2000s, I could reload a 50 round box of 148gr BNWC or 150gr SWC in 38 Special for about $0.70. A box of 200gr SWC 45 ACP for about a nickel more. At that time, a box of factory 38 Special could be purchased for $5-6, and 45 ACP between $8-10, but usually some variety of FMJ. Prior to COVID inflated prices, my cast reloads would run about $2-2.50 a box. Currently, I am NOT looking at costs versus savings, I can shoot when others CAN'T! My current cost (using stockpiled primers) is running about $3 for cast loads, and $10 for stockpiled FMJ. Shifting to recently purchased plated bullets, the cost will jump to about $8 a box for 9mm ... not a great price, but better than the $35+ that is commanded when you can find factory ammo!

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Judge control not gun control!

If serious & want best results learn how to setup each type of firearm you wish to shoot cast in . Revolvers check cylinder throats you want uniform size larger than bore . Quick & dirty slug bore & if that slug will freely pass thru cylinder throats you're OK , if not cylinder throats will need honing/reaming . For rifle you want to shoot the fattest bullet your gun will chamber . Any bore restrictions " choke " should be lapped out of any barrel regardless of firearm type . Chamber or pound cast are wise especially if chambered for oddball / obsolete cartridges , but not for the inexperienced . Good gunsmith or experienced rifle loonie are your best allies here .

I started reloading my old once-fired rifle brass with a Lee Loader ($9.95), and boxes of 100 bullets, 100 primers and a pound of powder. A year later I bought a second loader for a .38 Special handgun.

I started casting bullets with a Lee .358 WC mold ($9.95), a cast pot ($4.95), some free lead and a bernzomatic 1# propane bottle and torch.

Later I upgraded to a real press and other niceties, but that old Lee mold is still putting out good wadcutters after 45 years.

Surely, I have spent a lot more in later years, and I don't claim to be making a fortune from my "investment", but there IS a cost savings. Regardless, its just a heck of a lot of fun.

Funny thing, that's the 2nd time I heard that in the last month.

I have a Glock 19X that is about 2 years old. It's round count is about 2000. The ONLY boolits that ever went down the tube were Lee 124 Tumble lube, cast with 100% WWs and lubed with liquid alox.

I was never a Glock fan, but I have changed my mind. I am amazed at how accurate this gun is. Just today I field stripped it and inspected the barrel. I see no leading whatsoever.

Could you please explain your statement?

I didn't post what you're responding to, but the key seems to be cleaning the Glock regularly when using lead.

How many lead bullets do you run down the tube between cleaning? The stories of problems I've read are users who never clean their guns.

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GypsumJim, I think that AlHunt has it pegged. First and foremost, Glock is the ONLY manufacturer that I am aware of that SPECIFICALLY warns against the use of lead bullets. From what I have read and listened to, it seems that lead can build up fast in the polygonal rifling used by Glock, and may not be easily removed. Plus, with the fact that many people latch on to the claim (or practice) of cleaning their Glock on the fifth Friday after the third blue moon in an even numbered year, that increased pressure due to lead build up increases the risk of catastrophic failure. Very rarely do you encounter a Glock review that doesn't recite the lead bullet warning.

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Judge control not gun control!

Thanks for the follow-up. I did review my Owner's Manual. plus went on the Glock web site and couldn't find any reference to lead. The only thing I did find was that handloaded ammo will void the warranty. But that's legalspeak for all gun companies.

Truth be told, and I admit my laziness, but I clean my guns once a year....whether they need it or not.

My Glock was cleaned as new out of the box, and then again after the first range session. That's my normal. The next cleaning was a year later, and the 4th time was just today, after 2 years. I saw some fowling in the internals, but the barrel didn't look like it needed cleaning, and nothing came out. Naturally, I used a brass brush, Hoppes, etc.,etc.

I guess it just reaffirms that my homemade boolits are surely dam good....LOL.

I'm in a hiatus right now....that is in cleaning mode and not shooting. Its the few weeks before Christmas and after deer hunting. Right after new years I'll start back up with Winter indoor shooting at the club.

I guess I'll use my bore light a little more often now before my next cleaning regimen. Thanks for the info.