cast boolits

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Hey everyone, novice to reloading and had some curiosity questions if anyone had time to educate. I think I understand on the cast boolits, low velocity and lower pressure work best?

Can someone dive into what the gas rings/checks are for and if it's a dealbreaker with certain calibers if they are not present?

Also, the term "hard cast". Does this mean the same thing to everyone? Does this limit the leading of a barrel?

I apologize for the questions, I'm just attempting to devour and soak up as much information as possible. Thank you in advance!
 
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1. Cast bullets can be used in both handguns and rifles for a broad range of performance, from plinking ammunition to hunting pretty large game animals. The higher velocities and pressures require the best possible fit of the bullet to the lands and grooves, adequate bullet alloys (hardness) to withstand the pressures, and sufficient bullet lubrication.

2. Gas checks are typically a copper alloy cup that seats on the bullet base (requiring a cast bullet intended to accept the gas check). The purposes are to protect the bullet base from flame temperatures of the propellant powder, and to provide a scraping action through the bore to minimize leading transfer.

3. "Hard cast" generally refers to the use of bullet alloys containing metals that are harder than pure lead, such as tin and antimony. The higher the levels of alloying metals the harder the finished bullet will be. Harder bullets are less subject to deformation under pressures of firing and passing through the bore, and exhibit less deformation upon impact. Very hard bullet alloys can become brittle to a point that impact may result in fragmentation.

The above is a real thumb-nail explanation. I regularly use cast bullets in handgun and rifle cartridges ranging from .25-20 Winchester up to .45-90 Winchester and .45 Sharps Express, and at velocities from less than 900FPS to over 2500FPS (depending on cartridge and application). I have taken hundreds of different small game animals and birds as well as deer, antelope, and Rocky Mountain Elk (live weight over 600 lbs.). I generally use bullet metals of about BHN 12 for handgun and BHN 16-22 for rifle cartridges. BHN means Brinell Hardness Number, an industry standard for rating relative hardness of certain metals such as lead alloys. I do not use gas checks for most handgun loads, but I use them for rifle loads (.25, .30, .32, .33, .35, and .45 calibers) at velocities from 1400 to 2500FPS or so.

For an excellent primer on cast bullets in general I would recommend you obtain the Lyman Reloading Handbook, and if possible a copy of the excellent NRA publication "Cast Bullets" by Col. E.H. Harrison (long out of print, but occasionally seen on eBay and other on-line sources). Everything from bullet alloys, gas checks, bullet casting, sizing, lubrication, and specific advice for just about any application, presented for beginners to advanced users.

I've been casting bullets since 1973. It has been a long, long time since I purchased any factory ammo to speak of, and I find that cast bullets meet nearly all of my shooting and hunting needs. Also one of the most fascinating aspects of the shooting sports.

Best regards.
 
I GREATLY appreciate that overview!!! This is why I enjoy this forum.

clarification only: What about the "rings" on the sides of the bullet. Is this also part of the gas check?

Again, The explanation was exactly what I was inquiring about. Casting bullets is a "down the road" venture at this point, but due to circumstances outside our control, may be a sooner than later time.....

Thank you!

J
 
OP it'd be a whole lot easier if you'd tell us what you want to do . Like LoboGunLeather I too also shoot cast in both handguns & rifles everything from plinking , hunting , bullseye . It's a broad subject & so much is possible . The more details the better . Caliber , firearm , intended use etc. You mentioned hard cast ...... if you mean 95% of commercially produced bullets you're going about this the wrong way . For best results a cast bullet must fit the gun . I can't stress this enough . Lube is also important as is alloy selection . Majority of commercial casters use an alloy & lube that are not optimum for every use . Hard bullets & lube are easier to ship & work better with automated equipment .
 
The bands on the sides you asked about are the driving bands. They're what actually engage the rifling and make the bullet spin.

You will notice some of the grooves between the driving bands are deeper and closer to the rear of the bullet. those are "lube grooves". Lube is usually a wax and alox mixture, on smokeless loads it reduces leading, on Black Powder loads it also keeps the fouling soft, all of this helps accuracy over a shooting session and easier cleaning when done.

The shallow groove closest to the nose of the bullet is the "crimp groove", and is used to lock the bullet into the case mouth. Crimps are typically; roll crimp on rimmed cartridges, and taper crimp on rimless. There are thousands of articles about how much crimp to use, just know: DO NOT USE A HEAVY CRIMP on a near maximum load unless the data call for it!

Ivan
 
When I first saw the OP I knew there was a lot more to the question than met the eye. Then LoboGunLeather laid it all out in a nice summary and I thought we were done. But as the little details start to unfold it becomes a maze of rabbit trails that many of us just take for granted.

Kind of like driving a car. If you think it's a simple task, take a freshly minted Learner's Permit out for a spin. I started chattering at the girl as we were going around a corner and she forgot to turn the wheel back to straight.
 
great info guys,

Like I mentioned before. I'm all about getting information long before a "jump in" moment occurs. I am procuring resources and watching lots of videos since I actually do not cast....yet. I appreciate ALL the feedback and realize that there is way more too it than what I simply requested. But that's life, every day, there is something new to learn, no matter what our age and status in life.

Happy Wednesday!

J
 
Sometimes we call them boolits, just for fun.;)

The Cast Bullet Association sells an excellent instruction manual. I highly recommend you get it. It doesn't have load data, only how-to information. Go there. Do yourself a favor and go to their website and get this book:
Cast Bullets For Beginner and Expert|Cast Bullet Association Store
 
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"Boolits" (not "Boolets") is a term often used by bullet casters to differentiate themselves from those that use bullets that are covered with *gasp* copper.

Hence, castboolits.com...

"Correct" English? no. But it is a well accepted part of reloading vernacular.

I once ran into a couple of guys deep in the mountains in Northern Georgia. We had a nice little visit. They really do call them "boolits" there. But so do us casters.
 
I once ran into a couple of guys deep in the mountains in Northern Georgia. We had a nice little visit. They really do call them "boolits" there. But so do us casters.

I was thinking the source location might be East Tennessee but Northern Georgia will do!
 
Just to add to what Lobo posted, the topic of lead hardness is an important one in deciding what BHN lead bullet to purchase or what lead hardness to cast if you roll your own. Chamber pressures are one of the better ways to help determine what hardness bullet you should purchase or cast. It is not easy to find lead hardness versus velocity charts and I have actually never found a chart that even estimates the hardness numbers recommended at various velocities. From a design standpoint, however, reloading manuals have stated pressures for most loads available using lead bullets. A simple calculation to come up with a good approximation where one should start with regards to BHN is to use chamber pressure.

Optimum BHN = PSI / (1422*.9)

Since I cast almost all calibers now, I have been buying lead from many sources when I find it at the right price, but it is always a guess at how hard or soft the lead is, even if the sellers think they know. I can tell you that a very good and affordable BHN tester is the Lee Hardness Testing Kit and can be purchased for under $100.

One story about the importance of selecting proper lead hardness was my long journey of trying to come up with accurate loading for my 45-90 Uberti Sharps. I had been shooting muzzleloaders for years and started casting round ball ammo for each caliber I owned. As many know, round ball shooting uses pure lead (BHN: 5), and I soon started casting for my 45-90 using the same soft lead for bullets without giving it much thought. I tried every weight, shape bullet mold available with poor accuracy results.

Fortunately, I ran across an article about problems of using a lead bullet too soft the intended velocity. The author stated that low BHN lead can strip past the rifling as it travels through the barrel. So I started alloying my lead to match the above formula and found that a BHN of 15 would be the recommended hardness. My search for a solution ended with the simple solution of using harder bullet. The rifle is now capable of hitting a steel gong at 300 yards all day without ever missing!! Now to go for 600 yards!!

Of course, this is a subjective approach using estimates and approximations, but it will certainly help with determining where to start. Worked for me.
 
I on the other hand, go by alloy characteristics. For Black powder Cartridges I use 30:1 (97% lead: 3% Tin) or 20:1 (95% Lead:5% Tin, 9+/-BHN).

For Modern handgun and sub 1400 fps rifle I use Lyman #2 alloy (90% lead,5% tin, 5% antimony)

For faster velocity I use Wheel Weights (95.5% lead, .5% tin,4% antimony/8.9BHN air cooled 27.1 BHN tempered) or Linotype (86%lead,3%tin,11% antimony/21.8BHN) or Gas Checked bullets of a softer alloy.

For target velocity handguns (around 700 fps) you will want a 7 or so BHN.

For my 45-70 "Must Stop Everything" load I use a 400 grain tempered wheel Weight bullet (27.1BHN) with Gas Check at 2150 fps in a Marlin Guide Gun (will penetrate 1/4"+ steel also block walls!)

The other area of alloy choice is as cast diameter. Different alloys shrink differently as they cool some actually expand!

All this is covered in the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #4 (5 is out now) along with loading data for 70 rifle and 23 handgun cartridges!

Ivan
 
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