Was reloading some .223 Remington Federal cases using Federal SR primers. Most primers seated with moderate effort (using Lee classis reloader) but every so often a primer would refuse to be seated. Primer pockets were clean. This this happen to anyone else? Would applying a little resizing liquid with a Q tip and allowing to dry help? Would rather the primer pocket a little small than too large, but am wondering if some of the Federal primers were just a little over size.
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Seating Primers
- Thread starter tgwillard
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BruceM
Member
Do NOT apply any type of liquid to the primer pocket to aid in seating a primer.
Bruce
Bruce
shovelwrench
Member
You sure those primer pockets were'nt crimped at one time?
(crimped might not be the right word)
Post a pic of the offending primer pocket if you can. Its a pretty obvious ring around the pocket.
(crimped might not be the right word)
Post a pic of the offending primer pocket if you can. Its a pretty obvious ring around the pocket.
Storm52
Member
+1 to what Bruce said. I would check the pockets on the brass, since it doesn't happen frequently. There may be an issue with the primer itself. If you can separate those and measure diameter compared to the others, it might indicate manufacturer tolerance issue. Is all of your brass same headstamp or mixed? Are the problem seating issues showing up with the same headstamped brass or various? Lots of questions before being able to give definitive answer.
Problem with Federal Primers? Doubt it! I would say the brass is the offender in this situation. Check the stamping, if it is not commercial ie. Remington, Federal, Winchester, etc, then the primer pocket is likely tight for a military application. I now only load Remington brass in 223 because of the crimp issue and the inaccuracy from any other brand of brass in my rifles.
All of the cases were once fired Federal. Can't remember if I had to apply more force to some of the cases when I was depriming them. I also wondered if it could be variations with the primers (all came from the same box). I will measure the remaining primers with my micrometer and look for any variations. I will see if the problem reappears with the remaining primers. I can tell from the sound when the primer is seated and I can stop hammering. Usually three or four whacks and the primer is seated. Noticed that on some that were not seating, the primer was not going in straight. Others were going in straight, but just taking a lot of whacks to get flush seating.
Skip Sackett
US Veteran
You have crimped primer pockets
Yes, I have had similar problems. Mostly because I didn't take the time to properly prepare the primer pockets from military or crimped brass.
The way to tell if your primer pockets are crimped is to see if there is a "ring" around the primer pocket. A slight indent that runs full circle around the pocket itself.
What is the head-stamp of the brass you are using? Even some civilian made ammo has crimped primer in it. Federal and others.
Do you know how to remove the crimp? There are tools made just for that job. They can be expensive or cheap, depending on the type you choose.
Can you take pictures of your brass, the case head at least and post them? I'm sure we could help determine if your brass is so conditioned.
Yes, I have had similar problems. Mostly because I didn't take the time to properly prepare the primer pockets from military or crimped brass.
The way to tell if your primer pockets are crimped is to see if there is a "ring" around the primer pocket. A slight indent that runs full circle around the pocket itself.
What is the head-stamp of the brass you are using? Even some civilian made ammo has crimped primer in it. Federal and others.
Do you know how to remove the crimp? There are tools made just for that job. They can be expensive or cheap, depending on the type you choose.
Can you take pictures of your brass, the case head at least and post them? I'm sure we could help determine if your brass is so conditioned.
shovelwrench
Member
"WHACKING" a primer to get it seated?
OUCH
Most times they slide in like butter...If not, somethins wrong. but damn, don't whack em. Hope you got glasses on
Post some pics of your primer pocket.
Also, what primer feed are you using? The ramprime will often flip a primer (notice the cup will drag on one side) if you try to run it too fast.
OUCH
Most times they slide in like butter...If not, somethins wrong. but damn, don't whack em. Hope you got glasses on
Post some pics of your primer pocket.
Also, what primer feed are you using? The ramprime will often flip a primer (notice the cup will drag on one side) if you try to run it too fast.
Have had the same problem with one batch of new Winchester brass. .243. I always use a primer pocket uniformer on the pocket depth before ever loading it. I noticed it was really "snug", then when seating primers (lee auto-prime) it takes nearly twice the force to seat primers. My feeling is the mfg.'s are so rushed just to get product out, quality control is slipping. Worn equipment could be used in the mfg. resulting in slightly undersized pockets. A .0001" can make a difference.
Do your primer pockets look anything like these in this post? Military crimp??
http://smith-wessonforum.com/showthread.php?t=80956
http://smith-wessonforum.com/showthread.php?t=80956
I stopped using CCI primers years ago because they were significantly more difficult to seat in commercial brass than other primers. It seems to be a fact that there are small variations in primer sizes between brands, and sometimes the best solution is to switch to another brand. I would suggest trying another brand to see if that will eliminate the problem. Using force to seat primers is NOT a good idea, and always, always wear eye protection when loading!
Just like the picture, I have had problems with the PMC brass. I have used a primer pocket reamer on them and they are still very tight. They definately have a crimp, but the primer pocket seems tight too.
n4zov said,
"I stopped using CCI primers years ago because they were significantly more difficult to seat in commercial brass than other primers"............... I agree, they (CCI) can be stubborn at times, but sometimes you have got to use what you got
"I stopped using CCI primers years ago because they were significantly more difficult to seat in commercial brass than other primers"............... I agree, they (CCI) can be stubborn at times, but sometimes you have got to use what you got
I am using the Lee classic reloader, which consists of placing the primer in a pocket placing the shell holder on top of the pocket and hitting it with a plastic mallet. So when I say "whack" I mean that literally. And yes I always wear eye protection. In the process of "whacking" once to often, I experienced my first primer detonation. Actually not too bad.
I will inspect my Federal brass to see if there is a crimp as shown in the picture. I have both the Lee primer pocket cleaner and a RCBS deburring tool.
I will inspect my Federal brass to see if there is a crimp as shown in the picture. I have both the Lee primer pocket cleaner and a RCBS deburring tool.
flash60601
US Veteran
Try using the RCBS "Wilson" chamfer/deburr tool (either that or a 90-degree countersink) to take out the crimp. Or even to smooth out the commercial pockets.
They leave a "funnel" effect that makes repriming MUCH easier and less stressful, and all without removing a great deal of brass.
Flash
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