Reloading with Berry's Plated

Good Morning guys. I'm only on my second cup of coffee so the wheels are not turning fast enough yet. I have some questions on using Berry's Plated bullets for .38 and .357mag, I'll be using their 125gr and 158gr HP in both calibers with Federal primers and Hogdon Titegroup for the .38 and Alliant 2400 in the .357. I don't have much for reloading data but a new book (Lee 2nd edition) is on the way but I'm sitting here wanting to do some reloading and have only used Hornady XTP's before and need some powder charge info. So my Question is: Do I use the data for a cast bullet or a jacketed bullet or is it specific to plated bullets? Iknow there is data for plated bullets but none of the manufacturers websites offer that info. I am only making target loads but would like to make some at full strength cause I have never used 2400 before and would like to see the differences in magnum powder vs. the .357 I made with Titegroup which just makes a 12" muzzle blast and doesn't kick very hard. I'll be firing them out of my Ruger SP101 and my S&W 642, thanks in advance for any help.
Craig

The Berry website says not to exceed 1200fps. I suggest you read what they have to say about loading their products.

I've used 1000s of Berry's bullets in everything from .38 - .50 and they are good quality bullets. They are not meant to be fired at magnum velocities as the jacket will likely seperate from the lead core. I load mine in the middle ground between a lead and jacketed bullet of the same profile and have never had a problem.

Bill

My experience with plated bullets is to use the starting to mid-level loads for the same-weight jacketed bullets. Don't try to "magnum-ize" them, or you'll strip that thin plating right off.

RidgwayCO said:

My experience with plated bullets is to use the starting to mid-level loads for the same-weight jacketed bullets. Don't try to "magnum-ize" them, or you'll strip that thin plating right off.

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Agreed on the velocities for plated or "copperized" (copper-dusted) bullets. I used LEAD bullet data when l loaded Berry's and other plated bullets.

I now use poly-coated bullets. I find them more cost-effective and quite clean.

Does anyone have a .357 load with 2400 and 158gr Berry's HP for 1100fps? Or should I just stick with using the Titegroup?
Thanks again to everyone

*Klutch* said:

Does anyone have a .357 load with 2400 and 158gr Berry's HP for 1100fps? Or should I just stick with using the Titegroup?
Thanks again to everyone

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I shot 10K of berries 125gn. and 158gn with Titegroup, target loads at 3.9 grains of powder on the 125gn. bullet which is a little lighter than factory loads. I just figured there was no need to max load to shoot paper at 60 foot ranges or less. It just wastes powder in my book.

I load so many Berry's bullets that I have a wholesale account with them.

There are a couple of caveats to their use. First, be sure to bell the case mouth enough that you don't shave the plating off. This is important. Second, don't over crimp. If you cut through the plating, the bullets will likely tumble.

A couple of powder companies have loads listed for plated bullets, specifically Accurate Arms and Ramshot/Western Powders. Accurate Arms lists loads for Rainier Bullets, but can be used for Berry's as well. Ramshots lists loads with the Berry's Bullets in several calibers.

I've run Berry's pistol bullets up to 1,300 fps without tumbling, but that's the absolute limit. They should be kept at 1,250 fps or below for best performance. I've tried them at 1,450 fps in the 357 Sig, and almost ruined my chronograph when a wildly tumbling bullet hit one of the sky screen support rods.

You can use loading data for mid-range jacketed bullets of the same weight and profile without problem in most cases with Berry's Bullets. I develop some of my own load data with them, but it's my personal policy to not post loading data on any forums, due to the possibility of mis-typing, transposing, etc. Besides, I wouldn't take data from an anonymous person myself and wouldn't expect anyone else to use mine.

Hope this helps.

Fred

To avoid the crimp cutting into the jacket I seat them about 1/64" below the start of the ogive. I then roll the crimp over the ogive. I use a light roll crimp. I've had no issues doing this however I'd carefully work my loads up as the deeper depth reduces case volume quite a bit.

All the Best,
D. White

I have only loaded 38 Special and 357 magnum cases and Berry's 125 & 158 gr. plated bullets with Trail Boss powder. I have used the data on the Hodgdon website for lead bullets.

*Klutch* said:

Good Morning guys. I'm only on my second cup of coffee so the wheels are not turning fast enough yet. I have some questions on using Berry's Plated bullets for .38 and .357mag, I'll be using their 125gr and 158gr HP in both calibers with Federal primers and Hogdon Titegroup for the .38 and Alliant 2400 in the .357. I don't have much for reloading data but a new book (Lee 2nd edition) is on the way but I'm sitting here wanting to do some reloading and have only used Hornady XTP's before and need some powder charge info. So my Question is: Do I use the data for a cast bullet or a jacketed bullet or is it specific to plated bullets? Iknow there is data for plated bullets but none of the manufacturers websites offer that info. I am only making target loads but would like to make some at full strength cause I have never used 2400 before and would like to see the differences in magnum powder vs. the .357 I made with Titegroup which just makes a 12" muzzle blast and doesn't kick very hard. I'll be firing them out of my Ruger SP101 and my S&W 642, thanks in advance for any help.
Craig

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I've always been mostly a lead bullet reloader and shooter but recently started using Berry's bullets when my local pistol range / gun shop started carrying them. I've been loading the 158 grain in .357 using Alliant powder. Berry's web site (FAQs) says: "we have found best results using low- to mid-range jacketed data in the load manual". Alliant's web site recommends 14.8 grains of 2400 for a jacketed bullet but also stipulates: "REDUCE RIFLE AND HANDGUN CHARGE WEIGHTS BY 10% TO ESTABLISH A STARTING LOAD". Do the math and I get 13.3 grains. My Lee auto-disc dispenser will throw 13.0 with one disc and 13.6 with the next. I've tried them both and settled on the 13.0 grains. I didn't have any problems with the higher number, just didn't see any advantage to it for my uses. 13.0 lets me know its not a .38 special load, and is accurate and fun to shoot.
Dennis

Berry`s bullets

Anybody have comments on Berry`s plated wadcutters. Accuracy, leading, consistancy.

Sure...

ovrbrdonammo said:

Anybody have comments on Berry`s plated wadcutters. Accuracy, leading, consistancy.[/QUOTE/

Shoot 'em in my Model of 1955 in 45acp and love 'em... Plenty accurate, no leading at target velocities and as consistent as they make 'em. Have shot a lot of the 125gr RNFP in 38S&W Special using W231, 700-X, 800-X & Auto Complete and they all shoot just fine.

Cheers!

P.S. Spring for jacketed bullets for your hotter 357mag loads: you can usually find them ON $ALE and I believe you'll be happier with the results. Just an IMHO.

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*Klutch* said:

Good Morning guys. I'm only on my second cup of coffee so the wheels are not turning fast enough yet. I have some questions on using Berry's Plated bullets for .38 and .357mag, I'll be using their 125gr and 158gr HP in both calibers with Federal primers and Hogdon Titegroup for the .38 and Alliant 2400 in the .357. I don't have much for reloading data but a new book (Lee 2nd edition) is on the way but I'm sitting here wanting to do some reloading and have only used Hornady XTP's before and need some powder charge info. So my Question is: Do I use the data for a cast bullet or a jacketed bullet or is it specific to plated bullets? Iknow there is data for plated bullets but none of the manufacturers websites offer that info. I am only making target loads but would like to make some at full strength cause I have never used 2400 before and would like to see the differences in magnum powder vs. the .357 I made with Titegroup which just makes a 12" muzzle blast and doesn't kick very hard. I'll be firing them out of my Ruger SP101 and my S&W 642, thanks in advance for any help.
Craig

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You would want to be using a taper crimp die or stick to the XTP's or other with a crimp groove, especially with stouter loads.

An old thread brought back to life. ... Good. The info will be informative to many newbies and some of us oldies. .... I have used Berry's cast bullets for nearly as long as they have been in business. I often drive to St. George just to purchase direct from them.

The advice to hold the velocity down to mid-load levels is valid and will result in maximum accuracy for the subject handgun. I am just now starting to reload with their .41 caliber bullets for the .41 S&W magnum. I haven't run into a single problem and the initial accuracy from 3 different barrel length .41 mags has been right up there and exactly what I expected. ................

I now use poly-coated bullets. I find them more cost-effective and quite clean.

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Sorry for the slight thread drift, but is there a particular brand of poly-coated bullets?

The Berry Bullets are nice and the 200gr SWC shoot very well in 45 revolvers but I like to reload for paper target shooting at about $5.00/50 45acp/Auto Rim

I buy hard cast 200gr SWC @ $30/500

ovrbrdonammo said:

Anybody have comments on Berry`s plated wadcutters. Accuracy, leading, consistancy.

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I stuck some in my barrel, so make sure your load is for jacketed or at least well up on the load range for lead. Seat flush.

I shoot Berry's in .45ACP, and I treat them as plated bullets. They are fine.