I'm considering buying a first model top break "lemon squeezer", overall it is in very good condition but the nickel has black/rust spots showing through in places, is there a way to safely remove these spots without damaging the surrounding plating or patina? Once they are removed, how can I stabilize the nickel plating to prevent more damage? Is there a way to renickel just those damaged spots?
Fixing nickel plate corrosion
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Hello new guy, how much are they asking for the gun you are viewing?
Any pics? You can stabilize bad areas but plating just bad areas is impossible. What caliber?
Any pics? You can stabilize bad areas but plating just bad areas is impossible. What caliber?
Some of us will take the grips off put the gun in a solution of half Acetone half Automatic transmission fluid for a few days remove and use bronze wool to remove the rust. We then use Mothers Mag or Flitz to polish the bare metal blending it with thr remaining nickel it will much improve the appearance. Others prefer to skip this and leave as is. As to value pictures really are a must, but these typically are not rare enough to warrant more than a few hundred dollars.
Nickel plating with visible corrosion is a nightmare underneath the plating. Nickel plating with a few light pits and wear can be re-nickeled. I ran into a major problem trying to re-nickel plate a 1st Model M&P in 32-20. The refinisher "thought" he could do it, first you have to remove the old nickel through electrolysis, clean up the surface of any corrosion, then re plate. Problem arises when they strip the old nickel and reveal the "nightmare" underneath, even with some surface pits that don't seem to be a problem there can be serious corrosion under the plating. I wouldn't again attempt to refinish a nickel plated firearm unless it was only visible wear I was refinishing, no pits....in hindsight I should have left it alone, it wasn't all that bad.
I don't have it yet so no pics, but it is mostly on the barrel crown, on the grip safety where it meets the frame, some of the high spots on the cylinder, mostly toward the front, and a few spots elsewhere, overall the finish is probably 95%+ intact.
It is in .32 Smith and Wesson (short).
Seller is asking $350.
I personally would not go $350, maybe $250 but I would really have to look it over.
New guy, leave it be. At $350, no deal at all.
I second this method. You may be pleasantly surprised at the results. Here are some before & after pics of one I bought that sounds like a much worse case of what the OP describes...
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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! I wouldn't buy it. You can find one in excellent condition for what they are asking. These small caliber top breaks aren't very valuable because they made so many of them.
As others have stated, the price is high for this gun if not pristine. For guns priced in these lower brackets, refinishing can cost more than the gun and destroys any collector value. If buying as a shooter, refinishing won't make it shoot any better.
I would offer the seller $250 and if not interested, walk away. There are others out there you just have to look.
I would offer the seller $250 and if not interested, walk away. There are others out there you just have to look.
Exactly what I did, I'm awaiting a response.
WestKentucky
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About 6 or 8 months ago I bought a beauty of a nickeled 32
Safety hammerless on Gunbroker for $125. By the time I got the gun it was only $175 after transfer and shipping. Whoever is trying to sell you a gun in worse condition for twice as much is either a profiteer, or they don't actually understand what they have. The guns don't bring that kind of money if they have any issue at all.
Safety hammerless on Gunbroker for $125. By the time I got the gun it was only $175 after transfer and shipping. Whoever is trying to sell you a gun in worse condition for twice as much is either a profiteer, or they don't actually understand what they have. The guns don't bring that kind of money if they have any issue at all.
