A bare Victory, a huge storm and a wet safe…

[ChargerBill]

This is a story about my 1945 victory that has been sitting in my safe unfinished (bare) for a while now and has had no issues with spotting or flash rusting (until now).

Around 4 January we had a huge storm and the top 25 foot of a 90 foot pine tree came crashing down through our garage roof… unknown to us. It is a detached garage, and we had thunder all night long, so we assume that any loud noise we heard was thunder, and therefore went unchecked.

Two days after the storm I went into the safe… Or I should say, on my way to the safe I recognized water pouring through the roof and the entire garage had about a half inch puddle of water. Long story short… the insurance company is looking at a hefty bill. Hot rods were damaged, my safes wicked up moisture from the floor, boxes of collectibles were damaged and many tools flash rusted. No other firearms were affected.

My question is this; is it possible that the finish on this gun has simply worn off over time? Because it has been in the raw for a long time, but it does not look bead blasted, and none of the markings have been compromised whatsoever.

My second question is, should I re-parkerize it, would it be wrong to cerakote it matte black, or should I leave it alone? Before the storm I consider leaving it alone, but given the current situation that it is now speckled and will need to be cleaned up, maybe I am better off refinishing the gun. And, how best to remove the speckling without harming the stampings?

Any insight would be helpful.

 

[rct269]

The speckling will vanish in short order with some bronze wool and oil----any kind of oil---as its function is merely as a lubricant.

Note: Steel Wool removes rust as well, and bluing is rust. I realize this gun was never blued to begin with, and this admonition is for the others who may be reading this post. Succinctly stated, don't go anywhere near a blued gun with steel wool!!

Ralph Tremaine

 

[ChargerBill]

So you think I should leave it bare? I’d like to take it out and shoot it, just to see what it can do…

I think I’m having a hard time seeing a bare gun holding up to any use. Also, could it be that the black oxide finish wore off? Or the parkerizing wore off? I’m not too familiar with the condition these guns can be expected to be found in 80 years later.

 

[Targets Guy]

This guy used to be blue. I just keep wiping it down with ballistol and keep in vapor wrap. Action remains great and no rust.

 

[bruce5781]

I have an early 4" K frame target model that has no blue. It does not appear to have ever been buffed or blasted. It is actually a favorite of mine, I have had it for seven years now and have posted it several times. I rather enjoy its appearance and keeping it waxed has not allowed any rust to form.

Regards,
Bruce

Sent from my SM-G781U1 using Tapatalk

 

[ChargerBill]

So looking at these images I am wondering if my Victory was blasted bare. The surface is rougher than the ones in the pics. Were there different degrees of roughness?

 

[rct269]

The surface of your gun is rougher because it was (almost certainly) Parkerized---or whatever S&W called their (very) similar finish.

The thing to remember about these Victories is they were made fast----and at the lowest possible cost. When it comes to function, they're good to go-----but they ain't much to look at-----and they most certainly weren't expected to be pretty-------just to kill people!

Ralph Tremaine

 

[Mike0251]

Can't help with your gun decision but we took care of the first part of your problem 2 months ago! Best thing I've done in a long time, no more storm worries and cleanup. 5 of the first bunch of 13 could have gotten us too. No more. Let it snow and blow! (36 years from seedlings)

 

[glowe]

My first suggestion is to get your safes off the concrete floor. there should be one or more holes in the floor of the safe for a power cord or anchor bolts and that will transfer lots of moisture from the concrete. Treated 2 x 4s or 4 bricks would work, but leave room for ventilation under the safe. If you have power, put in a golden-rod heater.

Your choice on the gun, but keep it oiled.

ADDED: It just dawned on me that your hot rods might not be cars!

 

[mikepriwer]

Here is a 2" Victory that went to Ft Mason CA in 1942. The camera has taken some poetic liberties; the gun is more of a blackish grey, than blue. When it looks dry, I put another coat of oil on it.

The last image is the second page of the factory letter.

Regards, Mike Priwer

 

[Targets Guy]

I have an 80 year old plus pine tree I worry about all of the time.

 

[PeteC]

So looking at these images I am wondering if my Victory was blasted bare. The surface is rougher than the ones in the pics. Were there different degrees of roughness?

If all the roll marks are nice and crisp, I doubt it was bead blasted or something like that. If there is really NO finish left, even in nooks and crannies that normally get no wear, I wonder if someone cleaned it chemically. There are chemicals that remove rust - and any trace of blue, or parkerized finish.

I would not cerakote it. What looks good on a modern firearm, never looks right on an old one... that's just a personal opinion. I might have it parkerized, or have someone put some other modern phosphate finish on it. S&W did not call the process "Parkerizing" anyway, for trademark infringement reasons.

I think Zinc Phosphate coatings look good on military surplus guns and other mil-surp objects... again, personal opinion only.

 

[Igiveup]

I have a mismatched Victory, probably an arsenal rework, that is a great shooter. I had it Cerakoted with a "granite" color. It actually lo,ops like an original gray parkerized finish. A color you might consider if you choose Cerakote.

 

[steelslaver]

I have an 80 year old plus pine tree I worry about all of the time.

Any decent chainsaw that could remove that stress from your life

 

[ChargerBill]

OK, so I decided to take some brass wool and oil to it, and yes, the speckles of surface rust came right off. Also, whem I took the ancient Pachmayr grips off (missing the stock grips) I discovered a major alteration…and I am pretty bummed.

Whomever owned in the past decided that they preferred a round butt gun, and yes… damnit, they took off the last 3 digits of the serial number. This is a 559 XXX Victory, and it is marked with a “P” and does NOT say “Property of” anywhere, So, it is a firearm issued for domestic protection of some military armory, port, etc..

Mechanically… damn! I took the sideplate off and was flabbergasted. It actually looks brand new internally, and the trigger is smooth as silk.

I may look into actually Parkerizing it or phosphate blacking it chemically…. which always ends up looking dark grey, which is appropriate.

Some more weirdness: the case hardened hammer and trigger are case hardened on the portions which reside INSIDE the frame, but appear stripped on the areas exposed, yet no metal is missing, only the cased finish. Also, inside the butt and inside / under the crane you can see old Parkerizing. All markings on the gun are crisp and deep.

As far as the frame goes, I have a gunsmith who said he will re-weld the butt back to stock using metal as close as he can get to the original frame metal. So the plan is the do that, possibly chemically case color the hammer and trigger, and re-Parkerize it. It’s SCREAMING to be shot.

Question: are 1917 grips close enough to look right, or are they shaped differently? Does anyone know where I can find original Victory grips?

 

[ChargerBill]

ADDED: It just dawned on me that your hot rods might not be cars!

I have reoiled it after removing the rust, but my plan is the re-Parkerize it.

And unfortunately, they are cars. A ‘57 Chevy panel delivery, a ‘55 Studebaker surf wagon and a ‘35 Dodge pickup.