N-frame but what is it? What's it worth?

The Rabbi

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This is obviously an early N-frame in nickel. Timing is perfect. Bore is perfect. Action is smooth. Lock up is excellent. It is chambered in .44spc. It appears to have been drilled for a lanyard loop and filled in. Lanyard loop appears to have been factory. All numbers matching. S/N 1680X
Any information would be appreciated.
 

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Sir, that's a .44 Hand Ejector, Second Model. The stocks are aftermarket, but the nickel looks like it could be factory. If it is, that would probably affect the price.

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.
 
hi
the finish is not orginal the pins are polished flat and the edges are rounded.
my guess is it was a blued gun that was nickeled.
it a shooter grade gun with out a closer look I would say some where between 500 and 650.
jim
 
hi
the finish is not orginal the pins are polished flat and the edges are rounded.
my guess is it was a blued gun that was nickeled.
it a shooter grade gun with out a closer look I would say some where between 500 and 650.
jim

No, sir. The lettering is clear and sharp. No evidence of refinish. This is a factory nickel gun.
 
My assessment is the same as Jim's: it looks like a refinished shooter. At first glance, I thought it was a chrome job. However, I will take your word that it looks better in person than in the photos. Regardless of how good it looks or the fact that the hammer, trigger, and ejector star are not plated, I would caution against assuming that it wears it's original finish. Of course, getting a letter would go a long way toward verifying either position.

As a shooter, it is a $500-$600 gun. Original finish? Add a couple hundred dollars, so $700-$800. I would not go higher. If the seller balks at getting a letter, I would try to "split the difference" at around $700. Nothing wrong with paying more if you want it badly. I am just not in the market for a 2nd Model that would require time, effort, and money for finding decent stocks. Speaking of: original stocks...which it does not have...make all the difference in terms of value. Add maybe 50%. So a nice, not exceptional, original condition 2nd Model is a $1,000-$1,200 gun tops.

The simple fact is that the 2nd Models are not nearly as hard to find or desirable as the 3rd Models. A similar 3rd Model could bring twice as much or more.
 
It seems that you may not want to hear that it is refinished, but here's another vote for refinish.

In your pic of the rear face of the cylinder, the rebound slide pin has been polished and looks almost totaly flat.

It should be well rounded, not like the one in the pic.

Like this one-

1092417_sw1917_1l
 
i dont care whether it is or not.
Bu I do know a refinish job when I see it. And the letters and numbers are way too sharp and clear all over the gun for that.
 
Just trying to answer your question.
Does the lettering and numbers on this gun looked refinished?

100_0404.jpg

100_0405.jpg
 
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Hard to tell from your pics.
When a gun is refinished the lettering looks faded, shallow, and with the cartouche sometimes pulled to one direction and distorted slightly.
That isn't the case with this gun, even the small lettering on top of the barrel giving patent dates.
 
Does it look nice and clear like this one?

The only way to give a fair value for your gun, is to know if it is refinished or not. That's all we are trying to do.
100_0839-1.jpg
 
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Definitely a refinish.
It is possible to lightly polish a gun without leaving the usual horrible signs of a refinish.

It has a swivel hole, and originally shipped with one, because almost all early 44-2nd's were built on leftover 1917 frames. Look inside the yoke cut, and you will most likely see a Springfield eagle head Inspector's mark.
 
there are certain people here on the forum that I would trust anything they say, Jim is one of them, the pictures you have posted are poor for trying to give an opinion. I have had some very nice guns that are refinished and the telltale signs I went right by before buying them. It has been a rough learning curve but one we all must go through. On the grip frame next to the grip pin there appears to be a small letter "B" if so that indicates that the gun was a blued gun when it left the factory.

Dan
 
I would like to add that the barrel may not be original. For a gun in the 16000 serial number range, the head of the ejector rod should be mushroom shaped. The barrel type were later on the Second Models, I believe.
 
I may be in error here but I also believe that over buffing is not as necessary when going from blue to nickel as it is when going from pitted anything to blue or nickel.

There are also shops out there that will recut all of the lettering and logos for a price.

No one here is trying to put down your gun, but you did ask for opinions.:D
 
Gee, Jim. I'd been told that with all your expertise, you could spot
a refinish. Judging by this new expert, your reputation is somewhat
tarnished. And the rebound-spring-retaining stud being flat - well,
I'm sure he'll offer some explanation for that. Maybe it was a new
design for the stud.

Mike Priwer
 
Are you are trying to sell yourself on the gun? If you like it that's all that matters.But I would listen to all points of view,and post a few more detailed photos.
 
Are there numbers stamped on the left side of the frame under the grip. It looks like 133 or something like a date.
 
I think it is a refinish also. If I were a potential buyer I'd definitely presume that this one is. $500 - $600 would be my guess at a value also.
 
Gee, Jim. I'd been told that with all your expertise, you could spot
a refinish. Judging by this new expert, your reputation is somewhat
tarnished. And the rebound-spring-retaining stud being flat - well,
I'm sure he'll offer some explanation for that. Maybe it was a new
design for the stud.

Mike Priwer

Do you have something constructive to offer here?

I have something the rest of you don't have: the actual gun. I also have a Smith factory-trained gunsmith who has looked at it and is pretty sure it is not a refinish.
 
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