Model 1926 Hand Ejector

wiredgeorge

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Pistol belongs to a friend of my wife who wants to sell. He knows NOTHING about firearms and that is where I came into the picture... I am a firearms enthusiast but know nothing about vintage S&W revolvers; my weapons are modern and some vintage Russian stuff. Anyway, I wanted to ID and find the value for a S&W revolver and googled valuations and was directed to another site and they directed me here because of the depth of expertise (according to the folks on the other site).

My camera is horrible at taking close pictures so the images I will post are bad. The finish is chrome I think and is pretty good. The camera makes it look streaked because of the glare but there are few flaws and those are noted in my write up:

Based on ident from elsewhere, I believe I have a 3rd Model (Prewar)
aka Model 1926 Hand Ejector, Prewar or Wolf & Klar Model.
It was likely sold to Houston PD by the Wolf & Klar company.
Here is MY description I sent to the board and I will attach
a couple of poor pictures. Unfortunately, my camera is
miserable for close-in shots.:

-------------------
It is 6 shot and appears to be chrome plated. The finish of
the chrome has very few imperfections with little or no
wear. There are some discolorations on the front of the
barrel and 3 small nicks at the barrel end; each about 1mm
area and these are what make me think the pistol is chromed
but I am no expert. There is a bit of holster wear from
trigger to hammer.

The pistol has what appear to be plastic grips which may
have been intended to look like stag horn and have
checkering under your last 3 fingers. There is only one
screw holding the grips on from the sides and it is loose.
The grips appear to be warped as they appear to be what came
on the gun but bow out some at the top and bottom.

There is only one screw holding the grips in place and it is
very loose. There is another screw on the front of the frame
in front of the grips and three other screws on the frame;
two above the trigger and one in front of the hammer.

The barrel is 5" from cylinder to end. On the left side of
the revolver and on the barrel are the words "SMITH &
WESSON" and the company logo is stamped under the cylinder
release. On the right side under the cylinder and to the
front is MADE IN U.S.A. and on the barrel is a design mark
then the words, "44 S.&W. SPECIAL CTG and another design
mark. On top: SMITH & WESSON SPRINGFIELD MASS. U.S.A
PATENTED FEB 6, 06, SEPT. 14, 09, DEC 29 14

Behind and on the hammer in VERY small letters is stamped:
Reg U.S. Pat. Of - can't read anymore as the letter
disappear into the frame.

The backstrap and all the frame around the grip is smooth.
There is one flat head screw in the front of the grip
through the metal. On the bottom is the serial 43886 and on
the back is H.P.D. 309.

The revolver has been in the family of the current owner for
a couple generations and the owner is over 60 years old I
would judge. I believe he knows the history and H.P.D.
stands for Houston Police Department.

A trigger lock was installed at some time in the past and it
is installed. The owner has the key but will have to look
for it. The weapon has been fired with some evidence of
carbon on the front of the cylinder and barrel end. The
cylinder appear tight and the trigger and hammer appear
almost new.
--------

Do you agree with the ident of this revolver and what is it worth?
If I wanted to sell it, what would be the best way to do that to
reach the target audience for this type weapon? Thanks-
George Lesho Mico TX
 

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From a historical perspective its a neat gun. The model is very desirable. The problem is with the refinish to chrome or nickel. The hammer looks chromed/nickeled and leads one to assume the whole gun was refinished in the past. This kills collector interest and puts it into a shooter category. Many would like to have it as a shooter, but the value will be greatly diminished from an original specimen.

I'm guessing its a $500- $800 gun. This forum has a classified section and reaches the nations top Smith collectors. Gunbroker is another resource, although I have personally had some bad experiences there.


Charlie
 
I would just add to what Charlie said that shooter value will depend on mech. condition.
 
I would just add to what Charlie said that shooter value will depend on mech. condition.

Not sure how to assess the mechanical condition of a revolver other than shoot it... the revolver seems fairly clean (bore) with the rifling in good shape and the cylinder seems tight. Do I just go out and shoot it?
 
You identified the model correctly, and others have commented on the gun's issues. I would just add that the serial number points to mid-1930s manufacture and shipping. You would have to letter the gun to get an actual shipment date, because S&W did not ship in strict serial number order.

Yes, it is refinished in nickel, but it looks like not a bad job on the frame. Cheap refinishes often show over-rounded corners on the frame or a gully at the sideplate/frame boundary. I don't see those features here, or at least not to an exaggerated degree. The hammer and trigger should not have been nickeled, but the nickel could be reversed off of those parts and they could be re-case hardened to freshen the case coloring that S&W wanted on that gun.

The stocks are plastic (Franzite, I imagine) from a decade or two later than the gun itself. Original checkered walnut service stocks with silver medallions are available if someone wanted to get back to original appearance.

The gun may have been blued in its original incarnation, and the nickel is a change by a later owner. A letter would address that question.

All in all, I'd think this is about a $500 gun to somebody who would want to put a little more into it to improve the situation with hammer, trigger, and stocks. Somebody who didn't care about the finish issues, and who already had some wooden N-frame stocks to put on it, might go a little bit higher to get a classic .44 shooter. But I think the upper end is about $600-650.
 
You can't judge mechanical condition with that trigger lock in place. First, find the key and remove it. Then, since you said you're not that familiar with older S&Ws, I'd take it to a big time collector or known gun smith and get their opinion on its shooting condition. I'm willing to bet either of those kinds of people will confirm what has already been posted, the gun has been nickeled or chromed later in it's life and, given the plating of the hammer and trigger, the job was not very well done.

Kind of a shame to see that happen to a fine old 44 Hand Ejector but we've all seen it time and time again. There seems to be some genetic glitch that makes most people who acquire an old gun immediately want to re-finish it. The worst examples are usually done in nickel.

My $.02 worth,
Dave
 
DCWilson wrote, "Original checkered walnut service stocks with silver medallions are available if someone wanted to get back to original appearance."

Where would these service stocks be available?

Also you wrote, "
The gun may have been blued in its original incarnation, and the nickel is a change by a later owner. A letter would address that question."

As I already stated, I am not a vintage weapons type enthusiast and don't know what you mean by a "letter". How would this letter address what appears to be refinishing?

Thanks for your patience with all these questions.
 
The correct stocks are available - they are available from collectors and would be quite pricey ... maybe a $150 and up. They are not commerically available.

You can write to the S&W Collectors Assoc and get a letter that would describe how the gun left the factory. It's $50 and takes 4- 8 wks. If the letter says it was originally nickel, then you would take closer looks at better pics to determine if the current finish is original. If it states the gun left the factory blued, you would know for sure its refinished.

I don't think David is suggesting putting $200 plus into it, merely describing what it would take if someone wanted to get it closer to a correct configuration.


Charlie
 
George,
You might send a PM to Bob Bettis (bettis1) on this forum
and see if you two might cross paths somewhere. He's up in the DFW area and you're around San Antonio. (300 or so miles is practically next door, if I remember Texas correctly.;))
Anyway, he knows his way around S&W's of this era and could probably give you a pretty good opinion of just what you have...
 
George, what is the water level at on Medina Lake? My aunt lived on the medina river at Pipe Creek.
 
There isn't much real information for Medina Lake but it seems to be down about 40'. I live on some acreage about two miles from the lake.
 
Nice old refinished 1926. As a shooter I'd say...and pay....$500 to $600. There not common, but not rare either. A collector would probably restore the hammer and trigger to case color hardened and might replace the stocks with correct period wood. Personally, I'd leave it alone and shoot it. Thanks for posting it and good luck.

Cheers;
Lefty
 
Lefty, I sent a note to my friend telling him his options for selling the revolver were either invest some money into restoring (I did get a quote for this) and selling it in its original condition or to sell as-is as a shooter. The revolver looks MUCH better than the pictures show. If he decides to sell it as a shooter, this site probably offers the best target audience so I will try and get better pics. I went to Best Buy to buy a new camera yesterday and it turns out I wasn't taking pics correctly; have to hold the snap button down till the camera focuses. Also turned off the flash to reduce glare reflection... I tried this today and had a bit better luck but the camera is still not good. Will post on this thread the answer my friend sends to me. thanks wg

PS: Grips will need to be replaced; they are loose and warped plastic. What type frame is this gun? I see grips for sale for N frame and K frame... I would swap before shooting...




Nice old refinished 1926. As a shooter I'd say...and pay....$500 to $600. There not common, but not rare either. A collector would probably restore the hammer and trigger to case color hardened and might replace the stocks with correct period wood. Personally, I'd leave it alone and shoot it. Thanks for posting it and good luck.

Cheers;
Lefty
 

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PS: Grips will need to be replaced; they are loose and warped plastic. What type frame is this gun? I see grips for sale for N frame and K frame... I would swap before shooting...

The gun is a pre war N frame aka large frame. Grips won't be cheap, but can be found. They will have a diamond around the screw and be the service type, not magnas.
 
Lefty, I sent a note to my friend telling him his options for selling the revolver were either invest some money into restoring (I did get a quote for this) and selling it in its original condition or to sell as-is as a shooter. The revolver looks MUCH better than the pictures show. If he decides to sell it as a shooter, this site probably offers the best target audience so I will try and get better pics. I went to Best Buy to buy a new camera yesterday and it turns out I wasn't taking pics correctly; have to hold the snap button down till the camera focuses. Also turned off the flash to reduce glare reflection... I tried this today and had a bit better luck but the camera is still not good. Will post on this thread the answer my friend sends to me. thanks wg

PS: Grips will need to be replaced; they are loose and warped plastic. What type frame is this gun? I see grips for sale for N frame and K frame... I would swap before shooting...

The N frame service grips which are correct for this revolver will look like this.
swtlfords.JPG
 
I bought a better camera and took a few more pics... they came out better. Also, got the key, removed the lock and took it to the Bandera Gun Club where I am a member and had one of the gun smiths look at it and he said the revolver was fine to shoot. I bought a box of .44 Specials and shot 30 rounds. The gun worked flawlessly and the 200 grain load fired from the solid shooter made for a pleasant feel. I didn't much care for the sights but the revolver fired nicely. I am a bit more accurate with my personal .45 with ghost sights and found the shallow notch harder to sight for my tired old eyes.

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I decided to buy this revolver from George, it is my "going home present". I was looking for a .44 special, now can someone point me into the direction for the stocks for this period. I realize it is modified but dang it, I just did not care. I have a model 696 so now I have another excuse to get some more 44 ammo!! (The issue with the new model 632 barrels being canted made me hestitate until I can eyeball one)
 
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I got to meet WiredGeorge in the Bass Pro parking lot in San Antonio, and got the 1926 from him. The end of the barrel has a couple of nicks and chips in the nickel finish, but it looks outstanding otherwise. He even threw in a box of ammo, plus I got a box as well while I was waiting for him!! I will get some pictures when I get it home.
I am now looking for the correct grips for it.
 

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