Question about cylinder "slop"
- Thread starter MIKELUVR
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ScottJ
Member
With the cylinder open there can be quite a bit as the only thing holding the cylinder on the crane at that point is the little bump at the lower-right of the frame window as you look at the latch side of the gun.
Fore-aft movement when shooting is called endshake. You check it with an empty gun. Dry fire the gun and hold the trigger back this puts it into full lockup.
Grasp the cylinder and see if you can move it fore-aft. You shouldn't be able to much. You actually measure it by pushing it forward and using a feeler gauge between the end of the barrel and face of the cylinder then pushing back and doing the same. The difference between the two measurements is the amount of total endshake. A value of .003-.006 is considered ideal. Any tighter and the cylinder starts to drag on the barrel any more and you get lead spitting and loss of velocity.
Fore-aft movement when shooting is called endshake. You check it with an empty gun. Dry fire the gun and hold the trigger back this puts it into full lockup.
Grasp the cylinder and see if you can move it fore-aft. You shouldn't be able to much. You actually measure it by pushing it forward and using a feeler gauge between the end of the barrel and face of the cylinder then pushing back and doing the same. The difference between the two measurements is the amount of total endshake. A value of .003-.006 is considered ideal. Any tighter and the cylinder starts to drag on the barrel any more and you get lead spitting and loss of velocity.
son-of-a-gun
Member
I believe that value pertains to the barrell/cylinder gap measured with the cylinder full forward. My 686 measures .005"
End shake, the difference between your two measurements, on my 686 is .001".
Edit:
From the "Inspection Guide For Smith & Wesson Revolvers"
Barrel-to-cylinder gap: The ideal B/C gap is .006". A close gap will cause the cylinder to drag when fouled from shooting residue. A wide gap will loose muzzle velocity and may spit particles. The normal usable range is from .004~.010"
Hold the cylinder to the rear and insert the thickest gap gauge that will fit between the cylinder face and the rear of the barrel (with friction). This will be the B/C gap.
Cylinder endshake: This test will measure the front to back free travel of the cylinder. It is a good indicator of wear from shooting. Anything over .002" is considered excessive.
Hold the cylinder forward and insert the thickest gap gauge that will fit between the cylinder face and the rear of the barrel with minimal friction. Subtract the measurement from the B/C gap. This will be the cylinder endshake.
Last edited:
Have gun-will travel
Member
ScottJ ,
that is one dang good answer and I thank you kindly
.......is there any way to adjust "endshake" ?
Yes you can adjust end shake using end shake bearings .Ron Power,Power Custom cylinder and yoke endshake bearings .K,L and N frame all the same but available in two thicknesses.051mm and .10mm.These are avaiable from Brownell's. If you don't want to go this route you can have a gunsmith stretch the yoke .They also have sideplate shims for revolvers that have space between the side plate and the hammer and trigger.This will help to smooth up and improve trigger pull. Hope this helps.
ScottJ
Member
What will travel said. Endshake bushings are easy to do if you have the skills to remove a sideplate.
I had to do my 28-2 that would drag on the barrel when I got it.
I had to do my 28-2 that would drag on the barrel when I got it.
tgd31968
Member
Ok, so then how about rotation? I was at the LGS the other day, and looking at a used 29. when cocked, I could rotate the cylinder a bit. I picked up a new 29 and did the same check and it also had some play. I know this is fairly normal, but how much is too much? how do you gauge it at a gun shop or gun show without mics and gauges?
Also, I know older Colts need to be checked after dry firing as that is when they are fully locked, but I didn't think the same is true of S&W?
TD
Also, I know older Colts need to be checked after dry firing as that is when they are fully locked, but I didn't think the same is true of S&W?
TD
ScottJ
Member
Read through this, TGD. Unfortunately it isn't always practical in a gunshop or gunshow situation: Revolver Checkout Procedure
