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.32 S&W
- Thread starter iwanna
- Start date
Green Frog
Member
There shouldn't be any need to rechamber this revolver. If S&W made it, it is almost surely a 32 S&W Long already, and this is the most abundant cartridge that is available for this class of revolver. You cannot rebore the cylinder to 38 S&W because that caliber only allows 5 chambers and your cylinder already has 6! As has been suggested, if you want the gun to shoot, get it to a gunsmith who knows something about S&W revolvers (like David Chicoine, for instance) and it should be up and running in no time. It is meant to be shot and enjoyed!
JMHO - YMMV
Froggie
I think you probably meant rechambered to 32 S&W Long if it isn't already. But if that's necessary, factory 32 S&W Long cylinders are very available on Gunbroker or Chicoine and would be much cheaper than rechambering.
I was a little confused about the caliber and availability. I really don't want to change if there's no need. I'll contact David Chicoine soon. Thanks again for all the help! It's a cool little revolver. I prefer the small frames. My three inch bull 36-1 is a total favorite for some reason although I own far more valuable firearms.
A question about the action: are the hammer and trigger still frozen? When you talk about lock-up, do you mean the cylinder spins freely? If so, does the cylinder still spin if you hold the gun upside down?
I just can't imagine that a nicely refinished revolver like that one would have so many internal problems. It's almost as though it was reassembled incorrectly or incompletely after being refinished.
I just can't imagine that a nicely refinished revolver like that one would have so many internal problems. It's almost as though it was reassembled incorrectly or incompletely after being refinished.
Right. She's frozen up good. When I got it, I was able to get the cylinder to open. That's how I noticed the mis-match serial numbers. Now since the 'smith had at it, the cylinder won't even open. (Okay, I don't want to be too hard on the 'smith, even though he's disappointed me about every other time.)
Hammer won't go back. Trigger stuck. Cylinder never would close all the way it seemed. I guess I bought it as a refinished parts gun. I'll get it fixed pretty soon if it's at all reasonable. I really like the little thing. My one and only 5-screw.
Hammer won't go back. Trigger stuck. Cylinder never would close all the way it seemed. I guess I bought it as a refinished parts gun. I'll get it fixed pretty soon if it's at all reasonable. I really like the little thing. My one and only 5-screw.
Don't give up yet. That gun looks too nice to be a parts gun. I can't believe someone re-blued that if it was toast! You need to have an avid S&W fan who is familiar with I Frames (or older J and K frames for that matter, they are all so similar), open it up and look at it to determine what is the problem. They may not be able to fix it, but at least you would know why. If you have no one locally, I would volunteer to do it at no charge, just the shipping.
My suspicion is it was someone's "parts gun" and they didn't know what they were doing when assembling it. Possibly have incorrect parts in it.
I am not a gunsmith, but I am familiar inside an I Frame. I think I could at least find out what the problem is. PM me if you are interested.
My suspicion is it was someone's "parts gun" and they didn't know what they were doing when assembling it. Possibly have incorrect parts in it.
I am not a gunsmith, but I am familiar inside an I Frame. I think I could at least find out what the problem is. PM me if you are interested.
It looks like the thumb release is stuck in the forward position. That would freeze the trigger and hammer. Can you push the thumb release towards the back of the gun? Does that free up the action?
If the cylinder does not completely close, it is possibly being blocked by a bad hand sticking through the face of the recoil shield. If you can get the cylinder open again, look at the vertical slot on the left side of the recoil shield as you face the gun. Can you see anything protruding through the slot?
If the cylinder does not completely close, it is possibly being blocked by a bad hand sticking through the face of the recoil shield. If you can get the cylinder open again, look at the vertical slot on the left side of the recoil shield as you face the gun. Can you see anything protruding through the slot?
I think pushing the thumb release backward did release the cylinder before it went to the 'smith. Now that doesn't work. He included a very small part it a baggie that might be one of the ones needed or the bad one he took out.
Hey! Hey! I finally got it back from the second (competent) gunsmith and she's fixed and ready to go! It cost me 115.00. The guy made a new ejector rod for it and straightened the crane and removed a burr from one of the cylinders.
Now here's my question: The guys behind the counter at Capra's really seemed to take an interest in this one which was kind of cool. When I picked it up, they remembered it and told me that they had just gotten in a shipment of .32 S&W long. I asked if this would work for me (I've been so confused on the ammo issue on this piece) The guy was honest and told me he was 99% sure. He took the time to chamber a round which seems to fit the cylinder length just fine. I bought a box on trust, but now I want to verify before I shoot.
Can anyone tell me with fair certainty that this ammo will work or not?
Now here's my question: The guys behind the counter at Capra's really seemed to take an interest in this one which was kind of cool. When I picked it up, they remembered it and told me that they had just gotten in a shipment of .32 S&W long. I asked if this would work for me (I've been so confused on the ammo issue on this piece) The guy was honest and told me he was 99% sure. He took the time to chamber a round which seems to fit the cylinder length just fine. I bought a box on trust, but now I want to verify before I shoot.
Can anyone tell me with fair certainty that this ammo will work or not?
That cylinder is definitely a S&W cylinder. The barrel is definitely a S&W barrel, and the picture shows ".32 Long Ctg" stamped on the barrel. There is no question, S&W only made one .32 Long. Shoot that .32 S&W Long ammo you have. Your 2nd gunsmith sounds like a more knowledgeable & competent individual.
Bravo! A $165 32 Hand Ejector and it's all checked out and ready to go. You got a bargain in the final analysis. I have no doubt it's chambered for and the proper ammo is the S&W .32 Long (and 32 Colt New Police which you won't find)!
Green Frog
Member
Range Report!! This thread is begging for a range report after we vicariously followed your trials and tribulations. I'm guessing it will turn into another favorite like your Model 36... shooting the little 32 caliber has that effect on folks! I have finally gotten everything together to load for this caliber with a little 95 grain semi-wadcutter (old Lyman mould) and am in Hog Heaven!! 
I hope all is well now with yours. 
Froggie
I hope all is well now with yours. Froggie
I plan to bring it with me up to the cabin next month and try it out. But, I might treat myself to the local indoor range in the meantime.
I will post a report.
Now I have all 5 frame sizes. The .32; my beloved 36-1; a Model 48; a model 686; and a model 629.
I will post a report.
Now I have all 5 frame sizes. The .32; my beloved 36-1; a Model 48; a model 686; and a model 629.
Oh how I love to be an enabler....but you still need an M frame :')! (tongue in cheek)
That range report may be delayed yet again. I have a burr on the barrel face. I forgot about that these long months and I can only guess that the 'smith somehow missed it. It's plain to see even looking down from the muzzle. Looks fixable to me, but I'd better have it checked out.
I noticed it when I took the revolver apart for the grips-off "G96 treatment".
I noticed it when I took the revolver apart for the grips-off "G96 treatment".
It's just not that scientific to remove a burr on a non-match gun. Chances are it won't even show up in your accuracy. It's certainly not unsafe. Take a piece of 400 or 600 crokus cloth or wet or dry sandpaper
wrapped around the pointy end of a pencil and remove it first. Then go shoot it.
wrapped around the pointy end of a pencil and remove it first. Then go shoot it.
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