serafinglez
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2012
- Messages
- 7
- Reaction score
- 0
32 LONG CTG HELP ID.
- Thread starter serafinglez
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Welcome to the forum. You took the serial number from the butt of the gun, right? Not from the frame surface exposed when the cylinder swings open? Those hidden numbers are just soft fitting numbers that mean nothing once the gun leaves the factory.
If the number you mentioned is on the butt of the gun , that is a .32 Hand Ejector Second Model from about 1907/1908. The S&W medallions suggest that those are original Mother of Pearl stocks. Nice.
I can't tell from the photo, which is a little overexposed, but the gun may have been refinished. If the hammer and trigger are nickel plated like the rest of the revolver, it has definitely been refinished. But if they are just overilluminated and burned out in the photo, and if the original color is sort of gray or even lightly mottled with some color case hardening hues, then the gun possibly has its original finish.
Nice specimen. Between 1900 and 1930, S&W sold a lot of small .32 revolvers. At the time it was one of the most popular calibers for guns chosen for personal or household use.
If the number you mentioned is on the butt of the gun , that is a .32 Hand Ejector Second Model from about 1907/1908. The S&W medallions suggest that those are original Mother of Pearl stocks. Nice.
I can't tell from the photo, which is a little overexposed, but the gun may have been refinished. If the hammer and trigger are nickel plated like the rest of the revolver, it has definitely been refinished. But if they are just overilluminated and burned out in the photo, and if the original color is sort of gray or even lightly mottled with some color case hardening hues, then the gun possibly has its original finish.
Nice specimen. Between 1900 and 1930, S&W sold a lot of small .32 revolvers. At the time it was one of the most popular calibers for guns chosen for personal or household use.
OP
serafinglez
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2012
- Messages
- 7
- Reaction score
- 0
Thank you,yes i took the serial number from the butt of the gun,also the hammer and trigger are not nickel plated they have gray color,I think it is in perfect condition, considering how old it is.
OP
serafinglez
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2012
- Messages
- 7
- Reaction score
- 0
Take a couple pictures of the other side, with emphasis on the side plate, so that we
can see how it fits into the frame, around its edges. Also, if you can, carefully remove
the grips, and take a picture of both sides of the grip frame, so that we can see
what is stamped there. Swing open the cylinder, and try to get a clear
picture of what is stamped on the flat area on the underside of the barrel, including
any letters stamped there. And finally, with the cylinder open, get a clear picture of
what is stamped on the rear face of the cylinder.
In the third picture of your second posting, there is a pin end very close to the top
portion of the grips. That pin-end looks to be flat, which raises a question about the
originality of the finish. These other pictures may help in judging the originality
of the finish.
Mike Priwer
can see how it fits into the frame, around its edges. Also, if you can, carefully remove
the grips, and take a picture of both sides of the grip frame, so that we can see
what is stamped there. Swing open the cylinder, and try to get a clear
picture of what is stamped on the flat area on the underside of the barrel, including
any letters stamped there. And finally, with the cylinder open, get a clear picture of
what is stamped on the rear face of the cylinder.
In the third picture of your second posting, there is a pin end very close to the top
portion of the grips. That pin-end looks to be flat, which raises a question about the
originality of the finish. These other pictures may help in judging the originality
of the finish.
Mike Priwer
OP
serafinglez
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2012
- Messages
- 7
- Reaction score
- 0
Welcome.
Are there any numbers written on the back of the right grip, in pencil? The serial number should be written there.
Are there any numbers written on the back of the right grip, in pencil? The serial number should be written there.
OP
serafinglez
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2012
- Messages
- 7
- Reaction score
- 0
Thanks john,nothing is written on the back of the mother of pearl grips.
Last edited:
Thanks for the additional pictures. There seems to be nothing to indicate whether
the gun was originally nickel or blue, and no service department markings. So - I can't
tell if the finish is original, or not.
Mike Priwer
the gun was originally nickel or blue, and no service department markings. So - I can't
tell if the finish is original, or not.
Mike Priwer
The grips are factory and likely original to your gun.
The other side (left side) of the grip frame would be much more helpful unless there's noithing there at all.
Diamonds are on replaced parts or heel of grip frame left side for refinish followed by letters, sometimes in a rectangle, B (blue), N (nickel), or S (standard/blue), with an R (for refinish), on 'heel' of left side of grip frame.
Date numbers for a return to the factory are 3 or 4 digits placed on left side of grip frame on the 'toe' stamped vertically or horizontally, and will not match any other stamped #s ex: 3.48 for march 1948, 10.57 for Oct 1957, etc.
Stars by the serial # on the butt indicating factory rework & rework dates declined by early '60s, eventually no marks and refinishing was discontinued completely some time ago.
OP
serafinglez
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2012
- Messages
- 7
- Reaction score
- 0
As mentioned above, one of the dead giveaways for a refinished gun is if the trigger and hammer are nickel. S&W never did this, they were always originally case hardened as yours are.
Another other major clue is if the seam between the sideplate and frame is noticeably visible. Refinishers typically buff the sideplate separately, which rounds off the edge and makes an obvious mismatch with the frame. Your gun appears to have the near-perfect seamless appearance of a factory nickel finish. That is not proof positive that the gun has not been refinished (a skilled craftsman can maintain the fine fit), but a visible round-off would be proof positive that it had been redone.
Based on what I've seen it looks original, but I'm just some chimp.
OP
serafinglez
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2012
- Messages
- 7
- Reaction score
- 0
thanks
Thank you, so the difference between original nickel or not is the price of the gun,what would be the difference in price between original nickel or not in my gun.
Serafin.
Thank you, so the difference between original nickel or not is the price of the gun,what would be the difference in price between original nickel or not in my gun.
Serafin.
