I have a 38 M & P 2nd model that I would like to get the grips off so I can soak it in some Ed's Red for a couple of days to clean it. ( I have the correct screwdriver size for the side plate screws but I'm hesitant about trying to get them off). I can get the grip screw out but the grips themselves won't budge and I know/have read enough not to try and pry them off. The gun has a GREAT deal of sentimental value to me (it was my late son's). I just want to keep it in good order. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Removing grips
- Thread starter Zackary
- Start date
Leave the screw partially screwed into the grip. Gently tap on the screwhead with a piece of wood or plastic hammer... once the opposing grip comes loose you can remove it an use a wooden dowel or a small screwdriver handle thru the frame of the gun to tap off the other
Gently is key.
Robert
Gently is key.
Robert
Excellent advise - use it!
Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! You are wise to ask as the grips are made of hard rubber and become very fragile as they age. There are several ways to remove them without damaging them. First, don't pry them or they will likely crack. One method is to loosen the grip screw but don't remove it. Press down on the head of the screw or tap it with the handle of a screwdriver or small hammer to loosen the right panel. Pull it straight off the frame, don't twist it. Then you can push off the left panel with your finger through the frame. If that doesn't work, remove the grip screw. Hold the barrel and cylinder in your off hand and rap the knuckle on the frame above the grip panels with the handle of a tool or a soft hammer to vibrate the panels loose. Then remove them as above.
If those don't work, you can try heating the panels with a hair dryer or heat gun to break them free of the frame. Be careful not to overheat them. Some folks have used a razor blade to wedge between the panel and grip frame to break them free. However, I would only do that as a last resort.
Hope that helps!
Dang, either I type slowly or this site doesn't update very quickly.
If those don't work, you can try heating the panels with a hair dryer or heat gun to break them free of the frame. Be careful not to overheat them. Some folks have used a razor blade to wedge between the panel and grip frame to break them free. However, I would only do that as a last resort.
Hope that helps!
Dang, either I type slowly or this site doesn't update very quickly.
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hobby-gunsmith
US Veteran
removing grips
What works for me is remove the screw and take a razor blade and place it between the frame and the grips. Pry the blade, gently around the grips and frame and it will come out. Once you remove one of the grips, tap the other grip, from the inside of the grip out of the frame. Good Luck
Nick
What works for me is remove the screw and take a razor blade and place it between the frame and the grips. Pry the blade, gently around the grips and frame and it will come out. Once you remove one of the grips, tap the other grip, from the inside of the grip out of the frame. Good Luck
Nick
John in AK
Well-known member
There is one other step you might consider before tapping and razor-blading, or even heating: Light solvent.
After you have the grip screw removed, spray a light, mild lubricant/solvent such as WD40 or CLP in through the hole, and let it soak at least overnight. This will penetrate underneath the grips, loosening whatever's sticking them down, and may allow you to just lift them off. If not, then mild heat, gentle tapping, and the last resort, a razor blade.
After you have the grip screw removed, spray a light, mild lubricant/solvent such as WD40 or CLP in through the hole, and let it soak at least overnight. This will penetrate underneath the grips, loosening whatever's sticking them down, and may allow you to just lift them off. If not, then mild heat, gentle tapping, and the last resort, a razor blade.
I gave up on "the tap the screw method" after the escutcheon popped out of the stock and took a big chip with it. A fool-proof method for me is to take a single edge razor blade and insert it into the bottom of the stock between the butt-frame and the stock after fully removing the screw. Tap it until it hits the pin in the frame and simply lift up on the razor blade. It has worked every time. If one encounters a stubborn one, just move the blade up the front
or back leg. You can also insert more blades until the stock works loose. Have never put a mark on anything doing this.
The good news is there is no chance of stressing the stock at the pin location with this method, since you are lifting straight up, plus this method will dislodge any other part of the stock if stuck on the frame with rust or dried oil.
or back leg. You can also insert more blades until the stock works loose. Have never put a mark on anything doing this.
The good news is there is no chance of stressing the stock at the pin location with this method, since you are lifting straight up, plus this method will dislodge any other part of the stock if stuck on the frame with rust or dried oil.
Attachments
Be very careful because as Wiregrassguy wrote, they can become very brittle with age.Hello Zack, as noted, patience is the key. No one is timing you.
I like the gentle tapping method. Never fails. A little WD-40 between the grip and frame all ways helps.
I like the gentle tapping method. Never fails. A little WD-40 between the grip and frame all ways helps.
As you found out, tapping the screw head often drives the escutcheon out of the far grip.
Remember how you remove a sideplate by tapping the grip frame? The same technique often works for stuck grips as well. Use a plastic or rawhide mallet and hit the frame after you have removed the grip screw.
It usually works with no damage to the gun or the grips.
Remember how you remove a sideplate by tapping the grip frame? The same technique often works for stuck grips as well. Use a plastic or rawhide mallet and hit the frame after you have removed the grip screw.
It usually works with no damage to the gun or the grips.
I do not subscribe to tapping the partially removed screw head. You run the risk of dislodging the escutcheon on the other side. I own several pairs of Culina grips, and the tolerances are extremely close.
For removal, I hold the gun by the barrel, and with something soft for my hand I wrap the gun against my hand, and the inertia will loosen the grip. Do this over a bed, because you do not want the grip falling on the floor.
Wax the grip and frame contact points when reassembling.
Yes, your hand can get sore
For removal, I hold the gun by the barrel, and with something soft for my hand I wrap the gun against my hand, and the inertia will loosen the grip. Do this over a bed, because you do not want the grip falling on the floor.
Wax the grip and frame contact points when reassembling.
Yes, your hand can get sore
Using the screw *lightly*to tap the grip has almost always worked for me, but if the panel is stuck to the grip frame slipping a strand of dental floss between the wood and the grip will break the seal with no risk of damage.
mikepriwer
SWCA Member
The grips on this gun do not project into the grip frame, but rather they sit on the sides of the grip frame, with two exceptions. The exception are the half-moon top portion of the grip panels, and the stock pin on the bottom of the grip panels. A tight-fitting grip panel is wedged between these two anchoring points.
It's reasonable, then, to spray a solvent, such as WD40, or Kroil, around the top half-moons, and around the butt end of the grip panels. These penetrants should work their way around the half moon edges, and onto and around the stock pin. Then, using a razor blade, as mentioned above, and working it around the periphery of the grip frame, ought to start raising the panels up and away from the grip frame.
Slow and easy does it!
Regards, Mike Priwer
It's reasonable, then, to spray a solvent, such as WD40, or Kroil, around the top half-moons, and around the butt end of the grip panels. These penetrants should work their way around the half moon edges, and onto and around the stock pin. Then, using a razor blade, as mentioned above, and working it around the periphery of the grip frame, ought to start raising the panels up and away from the grip frame.
Slow and easy does it!
Regards, Mike Priwer
I’d try the razor broader first for fear of dislodging the escutcheon.
I once dislodged the escutcheon in a very old set of wooden grips , they were never the same. Little to no risk with the razor blade.
I once dislodged the escutcheon in a very old set of wooden grips , they were never the same. Little to no risk with the razor blade.
