Model 19, four screw variant

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Last week at a local online auction, I won a 1959 model 19. Serial # K356856. Due to the auction house schedule, I can't pick it up until after next week. I will post photos at that time. The gun is blue and has some corrosion issues. My question is. Can the whole gun be submersed in the lubricant mixture without detriment? Of course, the stocks would be removed first. The gun appears to be in pretty good shape. I am not comfortable with removing the side plate. I do have an air compressor to blow it out after soaking.
 
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Thank you "cleger" for posting the video link, and thanks to "quinn & adrianolsen" for your advice. My main concern is not damaging the side plate edges/lines, or screws. I am currently living in my childhood home. There is no tools, equipment or work benches, like I have at my own home. Three thousand miles away. When I stated lubricant mixture, I was referring to 50/50 ATF and acetone. Thanks for clarifying non synthetic ATF and I will certainly check out the ED's Red formula too.
 
Model 19, four screw variant (2 photos added)

Here are a couple of shots from the auction website. I had not really given it to much attention, until trying to post pictures. The gun also comes with what appears to be a very nice leather holster. From a maker called, "Berns-Martin Evaluators LTD Quantico VA."
 

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Here are a couple of shots from the auction website. I had not really given it to much attention, until trying to post pictures. The gun also comes with what appears to be a very nice leather holster. From a maker called, "Berns-Martin Evaluators LTD Quantico VA."

Please post pictures of this desirable holster!
 
Berns-Martin Evaluators LTD Quantico VA.

Please post pictures of this desirable holster!

Here is the only available photo at this time. I will be picking up the package next week. I will post others of the gun and holster at that time.
 

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If you aren't comfortable with taking it apart, I would suggest soaking it for a couple of weeks in a 50/50 mix of regular automatic transmission fluid (ATF) and acetone.

After soaking it a couple of weeks, blow out the lockworks with compressed air through the trigger and hammer openings. Follow that up with spraying some good quality gun oil into the trigger and hammer openings.

Next, give it a good rub down with some bronze wool (available at your local Ace Hardware) followed by a good wipe down with a cotton rag.

Lastly apply a coat of paste wax. Johnsons car wax will work, though Renwax is even better.

I think you will be VERY pleasantly surprised with the results if you follow these few simple steps.
 
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Thank you for your advice BC38. I will be trying my best to conserve or preserve it, if that is the correct terminology. I do plan to shoot it too. I have a 19-2 that is among my favorite shooters. But since I am not currently at my home in WA. this one will hopefully fill the void and possibly be better.
 
NO! Not something I's recommend. You will NEVER get all the lube and old crud out and it will eventually collect dust, debris, crud and cause more harm than good. Definitely not the way to go!

Either bring it to a competent GS or at least someone who is an expert at taking a S&W down and reassembling it. It is not a difficult task and does not take long as long as one has the knowledge and a few proper tools. Clean and lube it properly - you will thank me in the long run! No need to bung up a nice new (to you) gun. The whole process should not take more than 45-50 minutes and as long as there are no other issues should not cost that much.
 
NO! Not something I's recommend. You will NEVER get all the lube and old crud out and it will eventually collect dust, debris, crud and cause more harm than good. Definitely not the way to go!

Either bring it to a competent GS or at least someone who is an expert at taking a S&W down and reassembling it. It is not a difficult task and does not take long as long as one has the knowledge and a few proper tools. Clean and lube it properly - you will thank me in the long run! No need to bung up a nice new (to you) gun. The whole process should not take more than 45-50 minutes and as long as there are no other issues should not cost that much.
Absolutely!

The previously described simple methods will only get 95% of last 65 years of accumulated crud out of the action, So 60 years from now it will be right back where it is now, all crudded up. Maybe even as soon as 50 years from now, and it will probably be even worse.

No, you absolutely MUST buy a set of specialized gunsmith screwderivers and tools, and then teach yourself how to disassemble and reassemble a revolver. OR you can pay someone else another $100 to do it for you.

That is ABSOLUTELY the only RIGHT way! :rolleyes:

Nah - there's always more than one way to skin a cat...

FWIW, I have tried it both ways. Full disassembly and "the big soak".

I've had to pull the sideplate on a gun that I "soaked" when there were other issues inside that couldn't be resolved by cleaning alone. When I pulled the sideplate after a 2-week soaking followed by a good compressed air-blast there wasn't much of anything left to clean out of the lockworks. A couple of weeks in the ATF/acetone solution did a pretty nice job of getting rid of the old oil and accumulated crud.

If you have the tools and the skills, the disassembly method is the more thorough approach and your revolver will almost certainly end up with more squeaky-clean internals.

BUT for those who aren't so mechanically inclined and don't already have the tools, the 50/50 ATF/Acetone bath method is a viable alternative.

The 50/50 ATF/acetone soak is also a good way to deal with light surface rust - a.k.a. rust "frecKling" - that the OP's revolver seems to exhibit. After a good soak, a bronze wool rubdown will minimize the finish issues that I am seeing in the OP's photos.

But that is just my experience, and that's all I was trying to say.

JMO and as always, YMMV...
 
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Thanks for nudging me toward the DIY approach. I am going to further assess the condition of the gun when it's in my possession. I will then decide which avenue to take based on the resources available to me now. I did order an appropriate screwdriver online from Midwest Gun Works yesterday.
 
Brownells and YouTube are your friend. Buy a few simple tools, watch a couple of videos and work slowly. Don't work the side plate with metal tools and you won't damage it.

I've taught myself quite a number of skills using that formula. I haven't paid for a brake job in 25 plus years. (I'm safe with that brag since Pennsylvania pulls the wheels to inspect brakes on yearly inspections.)

Even if you hit a temporary snag, just don't force anything, be patient and start again.

P.S. I attended Glock and HK armorers schools twice each and I'm no mechanical genius.

Good luck and enjoy!
 
Model 19, four screw variant. Picked it up today.

Here are some photos of the package. Revolver, box bottom halves, papers, and holster. Gun pictures to illustrate pre-preservation condition.
 

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Model 19, four screw variant. Picked it up today.

More photos of upcoming project.
 

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Model 19, four screw variant. Picked it up today.

And still more revolver photos.
 

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I think you will need some bronze wool and oil to remove that rust. The soaking in the ATF / mineral spirits won't affect that at all.
 
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