Model 10 bobbed hammer

GJW1911

Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2010
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
I just purchased this revolver and would like to know from someone who knows more about S&W revolvers than I.
Does the bobbed hammer on this gun look factory? I am not interested in lettering the gun if it has been modified. Thanks in advance for your help.
George

030.jpg
[/IMG]
028.jpg
 
Register to hide this ad
George - Welcome to the Forum!
I'd venture to bet that someone modified it and it is not Factory.
I have a good used, orig. hammer (only has hammer nose). If you can swap out your sear and stirrup and exchange it in your gun - I'll GIVE it to you so you can put yours back to original.
PM me if you want it.
Mike
 
Thank you for the offer, I truly appreciate your generosity, but I really like it the way it is now. It has personality (to me anyway).
I think in its current configuration it will make a good carry gun.
 
Thank you for the offer, I truly appreciate your generosity, but I really like it the way it is now. It has personality (to me anyway).
I think in its current configuration it will make a good carry gun.

I like bobbed hammers too.............if you change your mind down the road, let me know.
 
Make sure it goes off, that non-factory despurred hammer has less weight behind it and the last owner may also have trimmed the strain screw.

When a gun has one "alteration" I always assume the owner didn't stop there, and more has been done to it.

I have bought a few "improved" guns done by kitchen table gunsmiths and when I went to test fire, instead of a nice "bang" heard a "click!".....
 
Stantheman86 I intended to test fire today, thanks for the advice.
What would trimming the strain screw do to this gun?

It feels to me that when pulling the trigger, the gun cycles very quickly, it feels like a Glock trigger.
Thanks
George
 
Trimming the strain screw cause the screw to put less bend in the mainspring, thereby lessening the force the mainspring puts on the hammer. If you never have a misfire with the ammo you use and will use, it's not a problem.

If the gun cycles very easily, that's mostly a good thing. However, it probably means that the rebound slide spring has been exchanged for a weaker one. Whether this is good or bad depends partly on how you handle a gun. Given whatever your habits, instincts or reactions are, you must be sure that the trigger returns reliably, so that you can fire DA quickly with no hangups (trigger return problems). Myself, I strongly prefer a full-strength factory rebound slide spring. However, I recognize that this is a personal problem, and may not be true for everyone. I'm going to go out on a limb, and speculate that the end results may even be affected by grip choice (!), as it can affect how the finger reaches the trigger. Regardless, I feel safe only with factory springs, but I know that there are others who are fully justified in trusting some pretty fancy modifications.

The situation calls for individual testing.

BTW, nice-looking gun! All it needs is a Tyler.
 
Last edited:
I had a gunsmith bob the hammer on my 64-2, 2-inch. It's my nightstand gun!
 
I have a 6" 10-5 that someone had lightened and trimmed every possible spring and screw.......the rebound spring was trimmed by half, the strain screw barely made contact with the mainspring......pretty bad, the trigger felt like a cap gun or something, I was like "Who the hell thought this was a good idea?" The gun couldn't set off a single round, I hope this wasn't someone's home defense gun:eek:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top