Model 29-2 6.5" holster help

Hollywood671

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Hey all,

As I said previously, I just picked up a Model 29-2 with a 6.5" bbl. The finish on this gun is cherry, and I want to keep it that way as best as I can though I intend on using it for hunting and shooting. I have been looking through the forum and have seen pictures of some 29's that have been in holsters quite a bit but there doesn't seem to be damage to the finish as I would expect.

I understand that some wear and tear is to be expected, but if I could minimize it, that would be fantastic. Problem is I intend to shoot it and carry it when I can. I was hoping for some of the experts here to give me some advice on the proper holster to get to avoid unnecessary wear, I know that a lot of the older style holsters are fine, but I was hopeful for something that is currently in production. Thanks ahead of time guys. I do appreciate it. I added some pictures also.
 

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If you are going to carry it in a holster, the blued finish will get worn in the usual locations. There is no getting around it.

Bruce
 
To minimize holster wear there are two things to look for:

1. Make sure that the holster is closely fitted for that exact handgun model. Movement of the weapon inside the holster causes far more friction wear than hundreds of holsterings and draws.

2. A smooth leather lining will be much kinder to the finish than the rough flesh-side of leather in an unlined holster.

My personal preferences also include full coverage of the trigger guard and protection of the rear sight (which can be easily damaged if bumped against hard objects).

Best regards.
 
Take a minute to clean the dirt from inside the holster once in a while too. Dirt is more abrasive than leather and will effect your finish in short order. A smooth surface inside the holster makes this easier.
 
Hey all,

As I said previously, I just picked up a Model 29-2 with a 6.5" bbl. The finish on this gun is cherry, and I want to keep it that way as best as I can though I intend on using it for hunting and shooting. I have been looking through the forum and have seen pictures of some 29's that have been in holsters quite a bit but there doesn't seem to be damage to the finish as I would expect.

I understand that some wear and tear is to be expected, but if I could minimize it, that would be fantastic. Problem is I intend to shoot it and carry it when I can. I was hoping for some of the experts here to give me some advice on the proper holster to get to avoid unnecessary wear, I know that a lot of the older style holsters are fine, but I was hopeful for something that is currently in production. Thanks ahead of time guys. I do appreciate it. I added some pictures also.
"Hollywood671":

As already stated here by the others, no matter what you do, carrying and using a gun in the field will expose it to some wear and tear. I always like the “hammer analogy”; although it works with a pry bar too.

As a hobbyist or a professional, you buy a new hammer (or pry bar) from a tool store or catalog of some sort that is of very good quality. You use it regularly, perhaps daily, and like everything else you own, you don’t abuse or misuse it and you routinely clean it off and wipe it down so there are also no issues due to moisture or perspiration. But after some period of time, no matter how much care you exert, because it is a tool and it has been designed to be used in working (perhaps even rough) environments, the hammer (or pry bar) will never, ever, look the way it did the day you either drove or removed that first nail. The same thing will be true of this Model 29-2 if you plan to use it “for hunting and shooting” and if you make good on your intentions “to shoot it and carry it when” you can.

That said, let’s look at a number of options that might help minimize the “damage”.

For a gun as big, as heavy, and (dare I say it), as occasionally clumsy to carry in the field as a fully loaded 6 ½” N-Frame can be, a shoulder holster can offer a comfortable way to lug it around; supporting the weight across both shoulders and not hanging heavily at only one point on your waist. It will also carry it up and out-of-the-way and tight to the body as well; perhaps preventing you from sitting on it and keeping you from snagging it on everything nearby. Additionally, if worn under a jacket (you must determine if that is legal in your jurisdiction) or sometimes even out in the open but still under the arm, a shoulder rig can also help protect your big revolver from the elements as well as from “the briars and the brambles” and the rocks and the branches you might otherwise encounter in the wild. Finally, the generally full-containment body designs found in most large frame shoulder holsters will also help to keep a lot of the dust and pollen out of your gun if your trekking takes you into that kind of environment instead. I used to use one for a 7½” single action while canoeing and it did a good job of all these things back then.

In the past ten years or so, crossbody shoulder holsters (more like shoulder-borne chest holsters because of their size and harness configurations) have become very popular with people carrying large, scoped handguns into the field for hunting. The good thing is that these designs often employ flaps to further protect the weapon from both the weather and the landscape (flaps can be your friend) and some of these designs have also been made as non-scoped versions as well and one of them might work for you here. As a side benefit, because you have to wear such things in front of, and not underneath, the shoulder, many of these models don’t fall into the concealed weapon trap of the conventional shoulder rigs. But remember, it is up to you to know just what the laws are where you are going to be carrying and how they relate to a holster like this and/or any covering garment you might wear.

Galco’s non-flap, under-the-arm, all leather VHS Shoulder System might be something to look it for it will carry a big gun comfortably and it is not of the spring type so you won’t be dragging the gun through a tensioned opening every time you draw (and, to a lesser degree, reholster) the firearm. Just make sure that it will accommodate that 6 ½” tube and not just a 6”. Their crossbody, all leather, non-flap Kodiak Shoulder Holster is an interesting design as well but I think it is only available for the 8”-type Smiths.

The extremely well molded, all leather, open top, DeSantis Black Mamba Chest Holster might work for you too.

It’s a little hard for me to figure out what Uncle Mike’s is or isn’t making these days and I know that they have changed some of their designs and materials from what they were originally doing a few years ago. But a properly sized (to eliminate internal movement), multi-layer laminate (to prevent moisture transmission) shoulder holster with the correct lining (oxford or pack cloth and not Cordura to protect the finish) could be a good choice too. They are (or at least were) made in both under arm and bandolier (chest) types for both scoped and iron sighted revolvers and, in the past, anyway, some came with flaps to even better protect your handgun. I’m afraid that here you’d really have to check what it was that you were getting before making a decision.

Blackhawk makes a multilayer, nylon laminate, underarm vertical shoulder holster that parallels the right concepts in the regards what’s spelled out above and it might meet your needs too.

If you can’t get used to the idea of a shoulder holster and depending on how you are built and what your activities are, a gun that big can, in many cases, be carried comfortably and relatively out of the way in a properly designed and angled cross draw holster. Looking once more at leather models, both the Galco DAO Crossdraw and the DeSantis Dual Angle Hunter could be of help in this matter. Crossdraws like them (there are others out there too) work well in vehicles and on horseback. And by not sticking out from your “strong” (dominant) side hip (being a crossbody design, they generally ride somewhere in front of the “weak” or non-dominant hip), they can often allow you to walk confining trails and push your way through brush more easily without getting hung up. The two models cited do not have flaps (some other models do) but both employ what appear to be wider-than-normal retention straps because of the expected usage.

I keep mentioning flaps as an option here and one place they really shine are in traditional, strong side, full flap, hip holsters. Not made by as many of the mainstream, commercial houses as they used to be (I still have several from Bianchi and Lawrence), El Paso Saddlery continues to make a wonderful leather version and Uncle Mike’s has made multilayer laminate models off-and-on for the last several decades (again with optimized interiors and exteriors for both abrasion resistance on the outside and finish protection on the inside with a foam core to resist moisture transmission).

The thing to realize is that the flap does more than keep the gun “in” and contaminates and the elements “out”. It also protects the gun’s grip panels (or stocks) from damage and wear. If you have never carried a gun before, one of the first things that you’ll learn is that the grips usually take a much greater beating than the gun itself and if you are concerned about protecting the originality of the firearm, you will either have to cover them or understand that at some point, they will need to be replaced. In fact, if you will be in rough terrain (bushes, branches, sharp or jagged rock outcroppings, etc.), you might want to just switch the original stocks out to something else (perhaps more tolerant) at the outset.

The only drawback to a conventional, strong (dominant) side carry, hip holster for a gun this big, will be its tendency to get hung up and often times be “in the way” (this obviously dependent on where you plan to go and how you plan to get there). There can also be clothing conflicts to consider as well.

But hopefully, even with those and my other caveats in mind, these few remarks have given you something to think about as you begin your search for a holster that is currently in production.
 
There are some fine custom holsters out there but also some durable production models available. Here are my favorite "in the woods" holsters for my N frame revolvers. I believe both are still in production.....or at least available at online auctions.

The 6 1/2" holster is a Bianchi #111 "Cyclone" for 6 1/2" S&W 44's. I like this holster because of the way the belt insert is cut. The holster can be worn strong side or crossdraw. I also like the fact that it is open at the bottom.
The 4" holster is a Safariland #25 for S&W Lg/Fr guns and it is also available for 6 1/2" guns. I have one of the longer ones for a Python.

Both are extremely well made,, fully lined and ride comfortable.
Be safe,
Craig.....
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I appreciate the responses from everyone, some very helpful information. Dave, I would really like to thank you for the extremely detailed response. The idea of a spring enclosed holster is not one I like too much becuase while it helps with retention, a very well made and fitted holster can do the same. Again, I appreciate the responses guys, keep 'em coming.
 
If you carry the weapon for hunting you should not get any appreciable wear IF:
It doesn't live in the holster
If it fits snugly
If to keep the dirt and grime out of the holster

If you hunt three weeks out of the year and don't leave the gun in the holster during the day/night--even when hunting--or at home--it should be good for a few years.
Blessings
 
I appreciate the responses from everyone, some very helpful information. Dave, I would really like to thank you for the extremely detailed response. The idea of a spring enclosed holster is not one I like too much becuase while it helps with retention, a very well made and fitted holster can do the same. Again, I appreciate the responses guys, keep 'em coming.
“Hollywood671”:

No problem, I’m glad I can help. Just remember to weigh anything I said against your own experiences and the words of others. Nobody has cornered the market on this stuff, which is one of the real benefits of this forum: the ability to hear from others and then decide for yourself.

The Bianchi 111 Cyclone very correctly mentioned by “dnonac” is one of the “others” that I was referring to in the section of my post dealing with crossdraws. It is a well-made, commercial design as are most of the things that Bianchi offers. However, if you go to their website to look around, I would caution you against their otherwise remarkable X15 Shoulder Holster for it is exactly what I mentioned to avoid (and that you agreed with) for it uses a “U-shaped” spring to keep its full length mouth “shut”.

I really like the X15 and I do recommend it for all kinds of applications (as a matter of fact, it was this holster I was referring to when I mentioned carrying a 7½” single action years ago) but I am afraid that while it would hold your 29 snugly once installed inside it (an important point stressed by a number of the people here), you would be dragging it through the spring-loaded opening every time you drew the gun or put it away. On my plain finish Ruger “work” gun, I felt that I could live with that. But as your focus here is to protect things as much as possible, I don’t think it would be the best choice for this application.

Unfortunately, I think that the Safariland Model 25 that “dnonac” also mentions (and it was a great holster in its day), is no longer made. Not that you can’t find a used one around somewhere but I think as they have shifted their line away from outdoors to duty and concealment holsters, this one was one of those that didn’t make the cut. But as Bianchi is now a sister operation to Safariland, if you look up that 111 Cyclone crossdraw on their site, you might want to take a look at either the Bianchi 5BH or 5BHL, which are current, thumb break (rather than safety strap) competitors to that Safariland model (pictured in “dnonac’s” preceding post).

My only consideration here is that this well made holster (as was the Safariland “dnonac” mentioned) is going to be a long holster to wear on the hip (it can be difficult to sit) because of the 6½” barrel on your 29. Also wearing it directly on the hip can be somewhat uncomfortable because of how we are built and it can make the holster susceptible to snagging as discussed in my first post. Normally, with something like the 4” gun pictured in “dnonac’s” own post, these two issues can be minimized by positioning it just behind the hip if you are male. This reduces the silhouette and takes the pressure off the hip “bone” and nerve packets in the area.

The problem is that a 6+” gun doesn’t always fit back there and it makes sitting even more difficult for a variety of reasons and applications. Just a thought as this is merely another example of how there is often a lot more to this stuff than it appears at first glance.

One last thing to think about before I go is how these holsters are lined. The 5BHL (the “L” indicating that it is a lined holster) and the 111 Cyclone both employ what are called “silicone” suede linings. This type of thing became quite the rage in the 1970’s and 80’s but, for a variety of reasons, it has fallen out of favor in more recent times. One of those reasons is that it is not believed to be as protective of the gun finish it surrounds as it was once thought to be. Originally (and still today in some circles) it was thought that it was easier on the bluing than an unlined holster or one lined with a layer of burnished cowhide. It was also thought it could be made to “fit” closer or tighter to the gun than a conventional holster interior; thereby limiting movement while carried and minimizing wear. These days, however, people aren’t quite so sure and they also wonder about the moisture such materials can retain and the grit they can pick up. Arguments abound both for and against it. Me, I have moved away from it and now lean toward a quality conventional leather lining on multi-layer concepts or a decent interior finish on single layer designs. You need to read more and make up your own mind.

Once again, I hope all of this helps.
 
I swear by suede lined holsters like the Bianchi #5BHL. And I spray them heavily with a good food-grade silicone spray. That way they won't absorb moisture and the gun slides in and out smoothly.
 
Has anyone had any experience with the Ted Blocker Lifeline Holster and the M29? I was doing some looking around and saw that as an option as well. Thanks
 
Try El Paso Saddlery. They make outstanding holsters, which are affordable. For about $80, you can get a Tom Threepersons holster, line with leather.
 
I hate to use them but evilbay auction site usually has a decent selection of Safariland and Bianchi "vintage" leather holsters. I've bought numerous new in the bag Safariland 29s and other styles for my revolvers. The trick is finding them among all the plastic holsters. I found a few of the above mentioned Bianchi and Safariland flap holsters over the last few years. They are great field holsters. The bianchi flap holster has the suede lining and covers the grip nicely.
 
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