I'm sure I could find it if I looked but does anyone know the diff in weight of these 2 3" revolvers???
Just thinking that a 686 w/7 shot cyl would not weigh very much more than my 65-3 w/3" brl and would be stronger and have adjustable sights.

If my train of thought runs true I may have a police trade in 65-3 for sale soon..... 308

I don't have the exact numbers but a 4" 686Plus is less than an ounce heavier than a 4" Model 10.

That may be good news for you but somehow I suspect you will someday regret trading away a 3" 65.

My 3" model 65-3 weighs 1 lb 15.75 oz wearing magnas and a Tyler T.
My 2.5" model 686-3 weighs 2 lbs 2.25 oz wearing magnas ( no t-grip)

So, about 2.5 oz more on the 686, maybe 3 counting the T-Grip. The 7 shot cylinder 686 would be slightly lighter, but the 3" bbl 686 would be heavier. Probably a wash. Incidentally, six rounds of Buffalo Bore 158 .357 weighs 3.75 oz, the seventh round weighs another .5 - .75 oz or so.

The K frame is still easier to carry due to smaller cylinder diameter.

It's not the weight. Really.
It's the FEEL.
You will regret dumping your 65. I do.

I agree completely. My 3" 65 has a perfect feel and balance that I've never found in any other handgun.

On the hunt at a local gunshow this weekend for one.

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Dick

Isn't any way I'd give up that 65 for a 686 if you're using it for SD. Especially for an IL model. It's your revolver and can do what ya want with it, but them 65's are great carry weapons and feel much better in the hand IMO. Have a 3" 66 and a 3" 686 and would sell the 686 first.

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V/R
Roger / SG

Another vote for the 65 3" as the one to have -- and with magnas plus Tyler-T. Mine, too, must weight 1 pound 15.75 ounces - thanks for the info dubhelix.

OK, try this one. I have a M 65 3"; I'm looking at a 3" Ruger GP100. Any idea as to how much heavier the Ruger would be? Carrying and rotator cuff are the consideration.

HiCap (LoCap) when I carry a revolver.

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HiCap

Sorry, I don't know what the weight of the GP is, but in my opinion, the superior trigger action of the Model 65 wins the day for me.

Best of luck,

Dave

Ok, I can answer this one, as I have had multiple of both.
IF (and this is a BIG "IF") you get the 3" GP100 with the partial underlug, it will be almost a total wash.
I had the full underlug blued 3" GP100, and a 3" model 65LS at the same time, and they were able to be carried in the same leather, and shooting them was actually quite similar, although the GP uses L-frame speedloaders.
I decided that I did not like the apearance of the stainless 65 OR the appearance of the (badly) blued GP, and sold them both. If it were a half underlug stainless ruger, I may have kept it.
I advise you to seek out a 2.75" Speed Six, as it will have nearly identical handling caracteristics of the 3" model 65, and be both cheaper and (some would say) stronger.

M65, the perfect gun for general work, imo

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I’m your Boogie Man, uh huh.

Personally, that's not a trade I would make.

Practice with the 3 inch and 158gr +P's will overcome any disadvantage you may think you have.

The 3 incher points almost naturally in a defensive situation.

If 6 won't do the job...you shouldn't be there in the first place.

Speed strips work great if you practice with them. And you can always load 2 real quick and get back on target fast, then load the other 4 after the dust settles.

My wife and I practice that drill until it's second nature.

If belt carry is too much, a good shoulder rig works great.

Just my .02 worth.

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Take your time..quickly.

Had my 3" 65 with me this week at the range and have to agree that it has become my favorite go-to gun for the reasons described above. It points, weighs and feels like an extension of my fingers - so that "aiming" isn't really necessary anymore short to medium distances. Mine usually wears RB combat grips but I'm experimenting with a set of Uncle Mike's grips that I picked up cheap recently.

Jerry