Model 60 vs model 37 airweight

Roofuss

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I am seriously looking for a small, very concealable and light weight older S/W snubby.
Have pretty much narrowed it down to a model 60 {stainless } or a model 37 airweight { blued }, and am wondering which would be the better buy ,and why ?

Any opinions, comments and / or advice would be greatly appreciated ....Thanks in advance ! Roof
 
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Just my personal opinion...everyone has one. If you intend to carry occasionally and shoot it frequently, the Model 60 would be the choice. If you intend to carry it frequently and shoot it occasionally, the airweight would be the choice.
 
What is a decent price for each ?
Looking at a very nice early "pinned " 60, for $500 and also a near NOS 37 for $400 ?
 
Compared to new M60's ($729 list), 500 sounds like a good price.

I recently bought a M37 3" for $400 in very good shape except it got light strikes and needed the mainspring replaced. The repair cost me $36.
I have a new M60 3" and it's a little easier to shoot than the 3" M37. But there isn't that much difference and recoil with 38 special isn't bad in either.

If you are going to carry it frequently, I'd go for the M37.
 
Leaning toward the 37 due to the fact its probably 98%, has original box, all paperwork & tools, cheaper and maybe a bit lighter for carry. Still kicking it around , tho......
 
If you can, you should check for frame cracks on the M37.

There are pictures of M37's on the Web with cracks under the barrel that can be seen with the cylinder folded out.

Not sure how much of a problem this is, and any problem presented on the Internet tends to take on a life of it's own and seem bigger than it really is.

Shouldn't be a problem with a new gun.

Mine is rated for 38 special standard pressure and no way will I shoot +P in it.

Dave
 
In a J frame, I prefer a steel frame over alloy. It does take a little bit of the bite out of shooting it. The alloy frame makes for a little bit more ease in carry, but for me, the weight is negligable in a gun like that in a good holster. The pros of alloy may not outweigh the cons.
 
The 37 is a very early 1970's gun, and has seen very little use, pretty much a safe queen since new. Owner says no evidence of cracking...anywhere.
The 60 is not quite as nice, seen some use, and has light holster wear. Nothing extra, gun only .

I have no plans to use +P ammo in either gun
 
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The model 60 can be made to look like new. Stainless guns clean up very nice and it's up to you how much you would want to polish it. I have both and like both. For an investment, if you get box and papers that could possibly help for resale down the road. Don't forget to post pictures, here's mine. :)
 
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Both are good guns. the 37 at around 15 ounces is nearly a half a pound lighter that the 22 ounce model 60. If all you intend to shoot are standard pressure .38 specials both would do fine.
The 37 has a blued carbon steer barrel and cylinder which requires a little more care than the stainless model 60.
Either'd make an excellent carry gun but the 37 would tug on your trousers a little less than the 60.
 
The one issue that has me on the fence regarding the 37 is "frame cracks" that have been well noted here and elsewhere. I have no desire for a newer 637, 642, etc. just an older 37 A/W for concealed carry so the weight could be a factor. Just not sure how much of a real problem this cracking issue is for the older guns ?
 
The one issue that has me on the fence regarding the 37 is "frame cracks" that have been well noted here and elsewhere. .... Just not sure how much of a real problem this cracking issue is for the older guns ?

I had the same concerns when I bought my M37.

I'm an engineer, although electrical and computers are my focus and I'm not a mechanical or materials engineer.

But, in general, most systems fail as follows:

1. They fail when the product is fairly new, usually due to a design or manufacturing problem. In the case of a m37, this might be because the barrel was over-tightened by the factory creating stress or even the beginnings of a crack.

2. If you get past the infancy failure problem above, then systems usually fail because they are abused in some way. In this case, one form of abuse would be using +P ammo in a gun not intended for it. In the case of an M37, I realize many people get away with using +P, but I think you still are subjecting the gun to stresses it wasn't designed for and risking cracks or other problems.

3. Systems fail because they wear out. Nothing lasts forever. If you buy an aluminum gun which has already fired 20,000 rounds you can expect it to just plain wear out at some point. Metal fatigue cracks are one example of how mechanical systems wear out.

So I'd say if you want an M37 just buy it. If the frame cracks, you may be able to get S&W to make it right -- even though you aren't the original owner.

If not, then you are out some money, and need to buy another gun. Remember nothing lasts for ever, anyway.

Finally, there is no guarantee an M60 won't also suffer some problem or a frame crack.

Or course, don't buy a gun that is already cracked.

There is no certainty in life -- so I won't let worrying about low probability events that might happen keep me from doing what I want to do.

FWIW

Dave
 
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The one issue that has me on the fence regarding the 37 is "frame cracks" that have been well noted here and elsewhere. I have no desire for a newer 637, 642, etc. just an older 37 A/W for concealed carry so the weight could be a factor. Just not sure how much of a real problem this cracking issue is for the older guns ?

It's the same as the Model 19 forcing cone failure thing.
Yes, there has been some failures, but they have in my opinion, been overblown and are certainly no reason to shy away from them after a thorough inspection.
 
I traded a Model 60-7 with a fellow Forum member for a CZ-75. I believe both of us were happy with the deal, but I often miss that Model 60-7. What is the "dash" number of the Model 60 you're looking at? If it's a Model 60-7, I'd snag it fast. Many think the Model 60-7 was the best Model 60 version ever built. I know I miss mine.

Best of luck,

Dave
 

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I carried a 442 (Airweight Centennial) for a while. I went to a steel M49 Bodyguard, and honestly couldn't tell a difference. Of course, being a fairly fit 200+ pounds helps, but I'd take the 60 (with a good custom/combat grip or an adapter) as first pick. The Airweight would be nice company for it. :)
 
637-2 here

And the finish from the hammer back to the bottom of the grip where your hand contacts it most, DOES take a beating. The trigger and lock up are surprisingly good/light IMO. IT IS VERY LIGHT, but I'm always afraid 1 hot load and the frame will snap. My 640 stainless is a tank by comparison/wt, and can't imagine why you would need a hammer on a j frame snub. for S/D, I gotta go along with guns should be comforting not comfortable.
 
As stated earlier, the M60 is a "no dash ".
The M37 is very early 1970's vintage
 
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