I have a S&W model 37 blued airweight and a new model 637 airweight (both in .38spl) and although I don't shoot them nearly as much as my steel framed S&W revolvers and have experienced absolutely no problems with either of them, I can't help but wonder what their relative life-span would be compared to my steel framed J frames. I've heard people say that the aluminum framed revolvers tend to stretch out and loosen up much quicker than do steel framed revolvers. Is there any truth behind this idea or is it totally false? I'm wanting to shoot my 637 more for fun and self defense practice, but I kind of need some reinforcement in my thinking before I do...since I do want to keep it nice and tight as it is my primary CC gun and I want it to be in good shape if I should ever have to really use it. Also, what is the warranty on both of these sweet little revolvers? Can anyone give me some real, first hand experience with how much use (general numbers of standard duty, factory rounds?) S&W airweight J frame revolvers will handle? Anyone ever had any real warranty issues with these older or newer Smiths and how did it go? Any help is much appreciated!
Airweight 637 and 37 lifespan/longevity questions
- Thread starter idaho
- Start date
I have a S&W model 37 blued airweight and a new model 637 airweight (both in .38spl) and although I don't shoot them nearly as much as my steel framed S&W revolvers and have experienced absolutely no problems with either of them, I can't help but wonder what their relative life-span would be compared to my steel framed J frames. I've heard people say that the aluminum framed revolvers tend to stretch out and loosen up much quicker than do steel framed revolvers. Is there any truth behind this idea or is it totally false? I'm wanting to shoot my 637 more for fun and self defense practice, but I kind of need some reinforcement in my thinking before I do...since I do want to keep it nice and tight as it is my primary CC gun and I want it to be in good shape if I should ever have to really use it. Also, what is the warranty on both of these sweet little revolvers? Can anyone give me some real, first hand experience with how much use (general numbers of standard duty, factory rounds?) S&W airweight J frame revolvers will handle? Anyone ever had any real warranty issues with these older or newer Smiths and how did it go? Any help is much appreciated!
rburg
Member
There seems to be little doubt that lighter weight or lighter frame guns tend to loosen up earlier than the heavy frame counterparts. Its true for a lot of combinations, including things like a 586 vs a M28, or a M66 against a M686. And the J frame guns don't last as long as the Ks when they get into high round count guns. Similarly, expecting a M37 to stand the same abuse as a M36 or M60 won't end well. Those that have the light carry guns and invest a bunch of time and money in firing them seem to be able to get them kind of sloppy over an extended period. Notice that they've spent many multiples of the gun's price on ammo (unless they manage to get someone else to foot that bill.)
So yes, you can wear one out. If you shoot light target loads, it won't wear nearly as fast. The opposite is also true. If you elect to shoot +P rounds, it won't last as long, either. View your M37 like you would any other tool. Compare it to a hacksaw blade. It'll only cut so many hardened bolts, but a lot more soft ones. Eventually it will wear out. You determine the pace.
So yes, you can wear one out. If you shoot light target loads, it won't wear nearly as fast. The opposite is also true. If you elect to shoot +P rounds, it won't last as long, either. View your M37 like you would any other tool. Compare it to a hacksaw blade. It'll only cut so many hardened bolts, but a lot more soft ones. Eventually it will wear out. You determine the pace.
On the other hand, you will probably shoot your 637 Airweight less often. When I shoot mine with 148gr DEWC range loads, I always wear a Johnson&Johnson knuckle bandage on the web between thumb and hand. Sometimes I shoot my SD/HD load: Remington 158gr LSWCHP. Ouch! You ain't gonna wear that thing out.
Cordially, Jack
Cordially, Jack
tom turner
US Veteran
Since they don't get shot a lot, they'll probably last you just fine for your lifetime . . . assuming they are in great condition.
Shoot 'em a whole lot though, and with really hot ammo, and (OF COURSE) they won't last that long.
I expect mine to be handed down to my kids with a LOT of life left in 'em!
Enjoy 'em though. And remember . . . grip 'em high . . . and grip 'em firm. If you are using wood grips or stag, invest in a Tyler T-grip and you'll probably discover the pain factor goes waaaay down, or even goes away!
T.
Shoot 'em a whole lot though, and with really hot ammo, and (OF COURSE) they won't last that long.
I expect mine to be handed down to my kids with a LOT of life left in 'em!
Enjoy 'em though. And remember . . . grip 'em high . . . and grip 'em firm. If you are using wood grips or stag, invest in a Tyler T-grip and you'll probably discover the pain factor goes waaaay down, or even goes away!
T.
indiandave
Member
You should change your grips to ones with a covered backstap. also padded shooting gloves help with the recoil of the 642. I can shoot 100 rounds of my home grown wadcutters 20 or so rounds of Buffalo Bore 158 lswchp std. pressue and my hands are ok. With the original grips and with out shooting gloves It would hurt.
My 637 has the short black rubber checkered Uncle Mike's grips that came on it. The 37 has wood grips. Both have exposed backstraps and I have never (and probably never will) shoot +P ammo through either one since neither of them say that they are rated for +P on them. Correct me if I'm wrong, but from my understanding, if they don't say +P on the barrels, that means I shouldn't attempt to fire +P through them...right??
I'm sure that using gloves would help soften the recoil, but I prefer to practice with SD guns in the way they would actually be used...barehanded.
Anyone ever have any experience with a worn out J frame? How do you know if or when it's finally worn out? Where's the limit to sloppyness in the cylinder, etc.?
Thanks for all the good info, I'm learning a lot.
I'm sure that using gloves would help soften the recoil, but I prefer to practice with SD guns in the way they would actually be used...barehanded.
Anyone ever have any experience with a worn out J frame? How do you know if or when it's finally worn out? Where's the limit to sloppyness in the cylinder, etc.?
Thanks for all the good info, I'm learning a lot.
I bought my wife her M37 back in 1976, before we got married. She came home to find her place had been burgled, so I bought her that gun. Bobbed the hammer and did a little slicking up inside. I used it off and on for a few years for work. At the time we were issued the P+P 110 grain "Treasury Load" which would hit 1000 fps out of that little 2" barrel. After 300 or so rounds the gun went out of time. I shipped it in and S&W put it back into shape, and it has functioned fine ever since.
But thereafter all the practice ammo was w/c or at most standard velocity, ball & dummy, with empties cushioning hammer falls on that alloy frame. Carry load now is the +P 158 LSWCHP. The gun is smooth as a bar of soap and has about 70% finish left, but it is still a fine little shooter. So that's what--32 years faithful service? Not bad.
Never did a round count on the M37, but my 442 has about 700 rounds through it with zero issues.
Pretty tough little guns, considering.
But thereafter all the practice ammo was w/c or at most standard velocity, ball & dummy, with empties cushioning hammer falls on that alloy frame. Carry load now is the +P 158 LSWCHP. The gun is smooth as a bar of soap and has about 70% finish left, but it is still a fine little shooter. So that's what--32 years faithful service? Not bad.
Never did a round count on the M37, but my 442 has about 700 rounds through it with zero issues.
Pretty tough little guns, considering.
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