My holsters insides feel like sand paper...

rollin_hot · Oct 7, 2009

I recently obtained two holster, one for my 686 and one for my 625.

Both of them are what I would consider medium to higher (not high) end holsters. One is a Kramer and the other is a Wild Bills Fusion holster.

My issue is that the insides of both literally feel like 120 grit sand paper, why is this? Every other holster I have i.e. Bianchi, Galco etc. feels like suede inside.

Is there anything I can do to soften the insides up? I know guns are tools, but I am a little apprehensive about using these with my handguns due to the potential of scuffing the heck out of them after a few trips to the range.

brucev · Oct 7, 2009

With respect, you would be wise to contact the manufacturer and ask them what steps to take. It is very likely they will be able to help you. Sincerely. brucev.

RedBerens · Oct 7, 2009

What kind of lining is in the gun now? If it's smooth leather, then you have an interior which will actually be better/easier on your guns finish than suede lining. Suede is the worst lining you can get. It holds oil, and attracts dirt which turns the inside of your holster into sandpaper. Smooth leather linings can be easily brushed out, and are much better for your guns finish in the long run.

Speaking of the long run, taking a gun in and out of the holster will eventually cause wear on your gun.

Black_Sheep · Oct 7, 2009

What you are describing sounds like an unlined holster. Leather working as a hobby dovetails nicely with recreational shooting, I enjoy both. Leather is smooth on one side and for the lack of a better description, "nappy" on the other side. Wet molding removes the oils and hardens the leather. Sometimes the "nap" on the inside feels kind of coarse, every piece of leather is a little different...

rollin_hot · Oct 8, 2009

Black_Sheep said:
What you are describing sounds like an unlined holster. Leather working as a hobby dovetails nicely with recreational shooting, I enjoy both. Leather is smooth on one side and for the lack of a better description, "nappy" on the other side. Wet molding removes the oils and hardens the leather. Sometimes the "nap" on the inside feels kind of coarse, every piece of leather is a little different...

That is pretty much what it feels like. It appears to be unlined, but rough as hell. I am use to holsters that have a sooth nap where these two are very rough coompared to my others. Should I try to get the nap back by say a wire brush or just leave it alone?

Frankie2blue · Oct 8, 2009

All my holsters are Kramer or Milt Sparks and they are rough on the inside. I know that Sparks makes a "Summer Special" that reverses the leather and has the rough side out, smooth side in. You may want to check them out and sell the Kramer, which on this forum would take about 10 minutes. I don't think I would want a lined holster though.

Camster · Oct 8, 2009

Personally, I wouldn't consider an unlined holster.

LoboGunLeather · Oct 8, 2009

Some manufacturers utilize a "forced drying" process, in which the damp newly-formed holster is dried quickly using heat (typically in a "drying cabinet"). This can reduce production time by eliminating the typical 24-hour-plus air-drying process. This process has been used for centuries to create armor using heavy leather, and such armor reportedly resisted knife and sword cuts, as well as arrow penetration quite well.

The result is a very stiff and rigid product that retains its shape exceptionally well. One side effect is that heating the damp leather causes the leather to expand somewhat, with the exposed fibers of the flesh side swelling and sticking up. This increases the roughness of the texture considerably.

Typical finishing processes in use by many modern holster manufacturers involve applications of acrylic sealants. This provides very good moisture protection, but also tends to freeze the roughened interiors in that state.

More traditional leather workers continue to use finishing agents such as neatsfoot oil compound, beeswax, and other natural products which enhance surface softness and provide better flexibility in the finished product.

For extreme cases, such as you have described, I might recommend applying a coating of Johnson's Paste Wax (used for wood floors and furniture) to the handgun, then inserting and withdrawing it from the holster repeatedly. The residue can be wiped off the handgun and does no harm (if you prefer, you may wrap the handgun with plastic wrap, then apply the wax to the plastic wrap). The wax will be taken up by the leather fibers inside the holster and remain there, providing a lubricated surface at contact points with the handgun, and will not affect the structural strength of the holster.

Best regards.

HEADKNOCKER · Oct 8, 2009

I've had great results using "Saddle Dressing" that contains neatsfoot on the interior of the holster & then putting the gun in a sock or plastic bag & drawing the gun several times & then storing the wrapped gun in the holster for a day or two.
This saddle dressing that I use is made in Australia & is quite hard to find but being I live a few miles from Churchill Downs were the KY Derby is held there's plenty of local Tack Shops that have this available.. My Favorite Tack Shop is "LeatherHeads", He's helped me repair several of my Alessi shoulder holsters with new snaps..
I have also heard of useing Wax as Lobo stated..
Gary/Hk

fat tom · Oct 8, 2009

Black Rock leather cleaner and conditioner. Problem solved.
f.t.

KD_Holsters · Oct 20, 2009

LoboGunLeather said:
Some manufacturers utilize a "forced drying" process, in which the damp newly-formed holster is dried quickly using heat (typically in a "drying cabinet"). This can reduce production time by eliminating the typical 24-hour-plus air-drying process. This process has been used for centuries to create armor using heavy leather, and such armor reportedly resisted knife and sword cuts, as well as arrow penetration quite well.

The result is a very stiff and rigid product that retains its shape exceptionally well. One side effect is that heating the damp leather causes the leather to expand somewhat, with the exposed fibers of the flesh side swelling and sticking up. This increases the roughness of the texture considerably.

Typical finishing processes in use by many modern holster manufacturers involve applications of acrylic sealants. This provides very good moisture protection, but also tends to freeze the roughened interiors in that state.

More traditional leather workers continue to use finishing agents such as neatsfoot oil compound, beeswax, and other natural products which enhance surface softness and provide better flexibility in the finished product.

For extreme cases, such as you have described, I might recommend applying a coating of Johnson's Paste Wax (used for wood floors and furniture) to the handgun, then inserting and withdrawing it from the holster repeatedly. The residue can be wiped off the handgun and does no harm (if you prefer, you may wrap the handgun with plastic wrap, then apply the wax to the plastic wrap). The wax will be taken up by the leather fibers inside the holster and remain there, providing a lubricated surface at contact points with the handgun, and will not affect the structural strength of the holster.

Best regards.

Actually heat causes the leather to contract (shrink) not expand. It extracts some of the natural oils from the leather and this is how you end up with the stiffer pieces. The flesh side (nap, as referred in other posts) can be pre-finished in a number of ways by the tannery. We have our leather finished with a moss paste type finish. This lends to the flesh side being very smooth and rarely has any roughness to it. Depending on where the holster manufacturer gets his leather from will determine what tannery is being used.

An acrylic finish after the fact provides for a moisture resistant surface. Thus it repels a great amount of water/sweat. Neats Foot Oil, by itself, allows the absorption to a greater extent of water/sweat. Thus you'll have a holster break down much sooner in comparison. That means your holster will become very flexible and create a myriad of issues.

Suede-lined holsters are not recommended. The reasons for that is the tanning process used on the suede is a chemical process, called chrome-tanning. These chemicals ultimately interact with your gun's finish, causing a loss to it. Even if the maker is using veg-tanned suede, you have the fibers of the suede itself which retain moisture and grit. In turn, these rub on the finish of the gun. I've personally seen a suede lined holster take the finish off a gun in very short order. If you desire a lined holster, then make sure that it's lined with the veg-tanned leather - the same used to make the body of the holster.

To the OP: I would suggest contacting both Kramer and Wild Bill's and see what they suggest for a remedy.

Good luck to you.

sonny · Oct 20, 2009

My best/most expensive/highest quality holster is Kramer horsehide; maybe 15 yrs old now.
Sonny

bbqbob51 · Jan 14, 2012

What if you rubbed a little bit olive oil inside and rubbed it in? If not olive oil then what would be a nice natural oil/compound would work? What about Rem oil? There is a little bit of that on the outside of my guns anyway?

dlbx2 · Jan 14, 2012

Do you have a Dremel tool? They make brushes of all shapes, sizes, & textures. You can have the inside feeling just about any way that you wish. Personally, I agree with Camster. I use the polymer holsters for my Glock, but otherwise, Galco Phoenix is all that I use. There are others that I haven't seen or tried, but I know I won't go wrong with the Galco. My 2 cents worth.
DLB

team sidewinder · Jan 14, 2012

All my Bianchi holsters are suede lined and I treat them with a leather conditioner with mink oil and beeswax among other things. It softens the suede which is already pretty soft and keep some lube between the leather holster interior and the gun finish. My guns see a lot of holster use and the finish on my guns show almost no holster wear considering. I can see the point of attracting dirt and grit in dusty/dirty conditions but I just wipe the interior of the holster every so often and reapply the leather conditioner. Maybe I am just not in conditions outdoors where dirt and grit would make it into the interior of the holster.

williamlayton · Jan 15, 2012

I am of the opinion that a little use will solve the problem.
Blessings

SAFireman · Jan 15, 2012

I think that anything that contacts the finish of your gun will cause wear of some kind. The models that you listed are stainless, and not difficult to refinish rub marks.

The makers of your holsters treated them in a certain way to help them retain their shape. Try inserting a similar (maybe more worn) model into and out of the holster 20-50 times and see if it knocks down some of the high points.

The Kramer may be horsehide and does have a different set of qualities than cowhide. Kramer builds a fine holster. If you want it broken in: send it to me

Good luck - and don't make any rash decisions putting home remedies on those holsters, it may well ruin them.

corgiS&W · Jan 15, 2012

LoboGunLeather said:
For extreme cases, such as you have described, I might recommend applying a coating of Johnson's Paste Wax (used for wood floors and furniture) to the handgun, then inserting and withdrawing it from the holster repeatedly. The residue can be wiped off the handgun and does no harm (if you prefer, you may wrap the handgun with plastic wrap, then apply the wax to the plastic wrap). The wax will be taken up by the leather fibers inside the holster and remain there, providing a lubricated surface at contact points with the handgun, and will not affect the structural strength of the holster.

Best regards.

Very helpful advice from someone who obviously knows what he is talking [writing] about. Thanks, Ray.

RevolverShooter · Jan 17, 2012

There is a leather treatment product called "Lexol". It is available on line and is especially recommended for leather treatment after the leather has become wet and dried into the condition you describe. I first found it through the "Simply Rugged" holster manufacturer and it works!

fat tom · Jan 17, 2012

fat tom said:
Black Rock leather cleaner and conditioner. Problem solved.
f.t.

Let me repeat.

f.t.

My holsters insides feel like sand paper...

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