Do you need a hammer block in a modern S&W?

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chp

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I understand why a hammer block is required in a S&W with a hammer mounted firing pin.

Why do you need a hammer block in the current revolvers w/o the hammer mounted firing pin? Thanks for educating me!
 
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Because without the hammer block in place, you can still push the hammer fully forward so that it contacts the frame mounted firing pin. This means that if the gun were dropped on the hammer spur, it could cause the gun to discharge.
 
scooter123 said:
Because without the hammer block in place, you can still push the hammer fully forward so that it contacts the frame mounted firing pin. This means that if the gun were dropped on the hammer spur, it could cause the gun to discharge.
Click to expand...

Not without the trigger fully pressed, however. Right?
 
The hammer block is what keeps the hammer from striking the firing pin unless the trigger is fully depressed. With the hammer block removed, the hammer can strike the pin regardless of trigger position.
 
There is a foot on the bottom of the hammer and a shelf on the rebound slide that prevent the hammer moving forward when it is at rest. But, if it is dropped with enough force on the hammer, it could break off. So, they added the hammer block safety.
 
snw19_357 said:
There is a foot on the bottom of the hammer and a shelf on the rebound slide that prevent the hammer moving forward when it is at rest. But, if it is dropped with enough force on the hammer, it could break off. So, they added the hammer block safety.
Click to expand...

Thanks. So do the modern J Frame Centenials have hammer blocks?
 
chp said:
Thanks. So do the modern J Frame Centenials have hammer blocks?
Click to expand...

I have had my 640-1 apart and the centennials do not have a hammer block. This is simply because, the hammer is not accessible from the outside of the fire arm to put any pressure on it to make it impact the frame mounted firing pin.
 

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I have heard of people carrying a revolver with the hammer down on an empty chamber.
Does this meam it is safe to carry with the hammer down on a loaded chamber?
Thanks
Randy
 
Hammer down on an empty chamber is for Single Action Armys, Colt clones such as Ubertis and old model Rugers, etc. As far as I know, and someone correct me if this is wrong, any modern double action is safe to carry with a full cylinder. Also, modern single actions such as New Model Vaqueros/Blackhawks are safe to carry fully loaded as well due to the transfer bar.

S&W added the hammer block during WWII due to the incident with the sailor. They were safe to carry with six rounds long before that due to the rebound slide, though as mentioned that can fail if enough force is applied from a drop.

YouTube - Gunsmith - Safety features of the Smith & Wesson revolver
 
Wingmaster said:
I have heard of people carrying a revolver with the hammer down on an empty chamber.
Does this meam it is safe to carry with the hammer down on a loaded chamber?
Thanks
Randy
Click to expand...

With an old-style single action revolver (think Colt SAA), the firing pin rests directly on the primer of the round in battery. More recent revolvers (Ruger New Model Blackhawks, all modern DA revolvers) have some type of transfer bar or hammer block as detailed above, so the firing pin doesn't touch the loaded round, and it is therefore safe to load all chambers.
 
Dragon88 said:
Hammer down on an empty chamber is for Single Action Armys, Colt clones such as Ubertis and old model Rugers, etc. As far as I know, and someone correct me if this is wrong, any modern double action is safe to carry with a full cylinder. Also, modern single actions such as New Model Vaqueros/Blackhawks are safe to carry fully loaded as well due to the transfer bar.
Click to expand...

New Model Rugers ARE safe to carry with a full cylinder. However, not all modern single actions are safe to carry except with the hammer down on an empty chamber. You mentioned Colts and Clones and Old Model Rugers. However, even the very expensive Freedom Arms is not safe to carry with a full cylinder (according to the factory manual).

All modern Smiths are safe with a full cylinder, as you state.

Not intended to be argumentative, just adding information to your excellent post.

Dale53
 
I've never handled a Freedom Arms so thanks for adding that. I guess it's best just to say consult your owner's manual or check with the manufacturer if unsure. Though once you've seen and felt the difference between an original colt-style action and a modern transfer bar-equipped action, it's quite easy to tell.
 
It took me forever to oonvice my father he could load all 6 rounds in his model 19. I'm sure that once I left he still unloaded that one chaamber.

Most of my guns do not have the hammer block in them.

Pistol smiths were notorius for throwing them away while doing an action job. Just one more piece that needed polishing and didn't do anything. Now that I do my own work I keep it in and polish and grease it. Smith must have put it in there for a reason.

If you drop a Smith without the hammer block it still on't go off because of the design of the rebound block.
 
chp said:
I understand why a hammer block is required in a S&W with a hammer mounted firing pin.

Why do you need a hammer block in the current revolvers w/o the hammer mounted firing pin? Thanks for educating me!
Click to expand...

The firing pin in the modern S&W is frame mounted and held back with a spring. A sharp blow to the hammer without the hammer block will cause the hammer to strike the firing pin, resulting in a discharge.

The hammer block in the S&W still does the same job it always has. It prevents the hammer from going forward if a sharp blow to the back of the hammer occurs, whether by dropping on a hard surface, or by striking the back of the hammer with something.
 
AzShooter said:
It took me forever to oonvice my father he could load all 6 rounds in his model 19. I'm sure that once I left he still unloaded that one chaamber.

Most of my guns do not have the hammer block in them.

Pistol smiths were notorius for throwing them away while doing an action job. Just one more piece that needed polishing and didn't do anything. Now that I do my own work I keep it in and polish and grease it. Smith must have put it in there for a reason.

If you drop a Smith without the hammer block it still on't go off because of the design of the rebound block.
Click to expand...

I am sorry, but this is suicide or serious injury waiting to happen. The rebound mechanism is not sufficient to prevent discharge if the revolver is dropped or struck. Just ask the sailor who was killed in WWII when his Victory Model was dropped on the deck of the ship. This is what caused S&W to design the new hammer block, after which an "S" for safety was added to the serial numbers of the Victory models.

Any pistolsmith who "throws away" the hammer block in the S&W after 1943 is an ignoramous, and obviously does not understand the S&W mechanism. Such a "pistolsmith" would be a contributing factor to any injury or death that occurs as a result. And it will occur. It has before.

Even the S&Ws prior to the change in WWII had a hammer block of sorts, in addition to the rebound mechanism, but it was in the sideplate, it was sort of fragile and it was subject to malfunction with grease and garbage.

The only S&W revolver that does not have the hammer block is the Centennial revolvers, and due to the enclosed hammers, the hammers cannot receive a blow from the rear.

Get those hammer blocks back in.
 
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Dale53 said:
All modern Smiths are safe with a full cylinder, as you state.



Dale53
Click to expand...

UNLESS you have one "modified" by AzShooter as mentioned a couple posts up. His father was right. AzShooter's S&W's, without the hammer block, are NOT safe to carry with a round under the hammer!

Sorry to beat on AzShooter, but this is seriously dangerous and EVERYONE should chime in and tell him so.

The fact that it MAY not happen is NO EXCUSE for AzShooter endangering everyone else on the line with his S&Ws that have had the hammer block removed.

It is possible that a blow to the hammer MAY result in the round firing right back up to the head of AzShooter, but there is no guarantee of that if he drops his revolver on a hard surface.
 
Don't sweat it. I carry this old school pocket rocket with all cylinders full and the hammer cocked :eek:

P1040141.jpg


Just adding some levity to the thread. The pistol was my grandmother's - a Marlin XXX STANDARD 1873 - .30 short rimfire - and definitely NOT safe to shoot (even if you could find ammo).
 
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