I just traded for an almost NIB Model 242. The lockable factory case has everything except an owner's manual. I tried the S&W site to no avail. But since this model was produced in limited quantities in 1990 I figured one of the veteran members of this forum may know where I can find a copy, or a downlowd of a copy of the manual. Evidently some of the material on the 360PD is relevant to my revolver, but I wonder what other particulars I need to know.
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Air Lite Ti Model 242
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Steve_NEPhila
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There is nothing very specific for your 242, which is a fantastic revolver by the way. Read up on the care of titanium cylinders, which directs never to use an abrasive on the front face of the cylinder. Other then that you really do not have much else to worry about. The clearcoat on the frame and barrel shroud should not be abraded or "scrubbed" either.
It really is that simple... congrats on one heck of a collectible. Not many of those were made and in a number of years they will be even more rare.
It really is that simple... congrats on one heck of a collectible. Not many of those were made and in a number of years they will be even more rare.
Revolver King
Member
242
Yes you will like it very much. I will go in the attic tomorrow and see if there is a manual in my box.
Yes you will like it very much. I will go in the attic tomorrow and see if there is a manual in my box.
HEADKNOCKER
Member
Congrats on the 242..
The 242 & 296 are the only L Frame Centennials ever produced by S&W..
IIRC the manual that came with the 242 I had was a general manual & not specific to any firearm..
The area in the manual about how to care for the Titainium cylinder would be not to try an get the front face of the cylinder spotless as damage to that area will cause the cylinder to erode..
Here's the link to the manual that on S&Ws Website in PDF
http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson2/upload/other/S&W_Revolver_Manual.pdf
PG 12 has some info on why not to use ammo that is lighter than 120gr as it can pull the other rounds & erode the cylinder..
Enjoy the L Frame Centennial 242 & BTW any 7 shot speedlaoder for an L frame 586/686 will work in the 242..
Gary/Hk
The 242 & 296 are the only L Frame Centennials ever produced by S&W..
IIRC the manual that came with the 242 I had was a general manual & not specific to any firearm..
The area in the manual about how to care for the Titainium cylinder would be not to try an get the front face of the cylinder spotless as damage to that area will cause the cylinder to erode..
Here's the link to the manual that on S&Ws Website in PDF
http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson2/upload/other/S&W_Revolver_Manual.pdf
PG 12 has some info on why not to use ammo that is lighter than 120gr as it can pull the other rounds & erode the cylinder..
Enjoy the L Frame Centennial 242 & BTW any 7 shot speedlaoder for an L frame 586/686 will work in the 242..
Gary/Hk
I have the same revolver and was wondering how much it is worth. I bought it from a freind who was a dealer and she purchased it new. She said its never been fired and is in a case with all paperwork. The only thing that strikes me as odd is that there is no grip on it. Does anyone know if it came with one? Thanks.
CAJUNLAWYER
Member
1. Put boolits into holes in the round thingy
2. Point at what you wish to shoot.
3. Pull trigger (that little thing sticking out from under the little round thingy) until it stops going BOOM
4. Go back to step one and repeat.
Be careful cleaning the titanium cylinder though. you don't want to breach the coating.
I have a 337 and aside from a little hoppes and a nylon brush to get the loose crud off, I do not agressively try to get every bit off of it. A little carbon just adds character
2. Point at what you wish to shoot.
3. Pull trigger (that little thing sticking out from under the little round thingy) until it stops going BOOM
4. Go back to step one and repeat.
Be careful cleaning the titanium cylinder though. you don't want to breach the coating.
I have a 337 and aside from a little hoppes and a nylon brush to get the loose crud off, I do not agressively try to get every bit off of it. A little carbon just adds character
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