Dry firing S&W pistols

John Hill

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I have four S&W revolvers, mod's 60, 617-6, 17-5, and 14-3. Can or should any of these be dry fired? Also if you know, how about my S&W mod 41 .22 semi-auto?
Thanks
John
 
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The centerfires, i.e. models 60 and 14 should be okay. Do not dry fire a .22 rimfire. The firing pin can/will strike steel instead of a softer primer and can break. Consult your owners manual to be sure, but dry firing a S&W centerfire revolver is not a problem.
 
any rim fire firearm should not be dry fired without protecting the firing pin or striker with a snap cap.
what walkintrails said is spot on.
 
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You can use a wall anchor that fits into the chamber and lower the hammer onto it. It has a soft rim to protect the firing pin.
 
pharman---the issue is that the firing pin or striker can hit the edge of the chamber and damage not only the pin but the chamber as well.
leaving the weapon cocked is of no consequence.
 
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The thing that I use for snap caps are the plastic yellow wall anchors. It is not easy to load one in the mod. 41 but that is what I use. They are easy in a revolver. They can take many uses particularly if I rotate them so that a new spot is struck.
My initial question was to see if there was the possibility of dry firing. When I load only 5 rounds to shoot the mod 617 that holds 10, sometimes I lose track of the shots and accidentally dry fire.
John
 
I have four S&W revolvers, mod's 60, 617-6, 17-5, and 14-3. Can or should any of these be dry fired? Also if you know, how about my S&W mod 41 .22 semi-auto?
Thanks
John

I have been shooting, including dry firing, for over 40 years without ill effects to any S&W, including rim fires.

Although the factory web site currently says dry fire is ok with centerfire, but not rimfire, the instruction sheets with the rimfires used to recommend dry fire.

Here is the old instruction sheet for the Models 34 and 35. Take a look at page 4 paragraph 7, second sentence, under Helpful Hints.

http://stevespages.com/pdf/s&w_34-35.pdf
 
i ALWAYS use snap caps when dry firing ANY of my S&W revolvers.

"a zoom" is a good brand to use with center fire revolvers.
for rim fired revolvers, i use plastic anchor fastners, size 4-6-8 X 7/8. they are more durable and less expensive than snap caps.
 
OK, so what about semi-automatic rim fire 22 long rifle pistols? Do you just store them "cocked?" Because if you dry-fire with a snap-cap, when you open action to get snap-cap out, you "cock" action again. I've never seen a 22 long rifle snap-cap...what do you use, just a spent 22 casing? I do not like to leave the pistol in the "cocked mode" especially if I am storing for a prolonged period of time. Ideas? Comments please?

My Ruger SR22 (.22LR) manual says you can safely dry-fire it as long as the magazine is inserted, and since it has a magazine disconnect, that problem solves itself.
It also has a de-cocker lever.
But, I digress.


Back to the original question - as was posted above, Smith & Wesson says you can safely dry-fire.
If you choose to use snap-caps in your center-fire, by all means enjoy yourself - but they aren't necessary.
 
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I have a model 642-2 when dry fired or with A-Zoom snap caps it sparks between frame and cylinder. Is this normal or is something wrong?
 
I must respectfully disagree here on this....my Uncle had a "cocked" Colt Woodsman stored away for a number of years and when he went to fire it, the firing pinspring was so weak it would not even strike hard enough to fire the pistol. This was the essence of my question, based upon my Uncle's findings years ago. Hence the question about storing the pistol "cocked."

I suggest that the spring was defective and would have failed whether the hammer had been cocked or not. A properly designed and manufactured spring will not "take a set".
 
An occasional dry firing of a rimfire is unlikely to do any damage, doing it a hundreded times a day probably will, the factory has to take stupidity into account.
 
i ALWAYS use snap caps when dry firing ANY of my S&W revolvers.

"a zoom" is a good brand to use with center fire revolvers.
for rim fired revolvers, i use plastic anchor fastners, size 4-6-8 X 7/8. they are more durable and less expensive than snap caps.

The #8-10x1" size anchor fasteners work well with my Model 48 also.
 
I have a model 642-2 when dry fired or with A-Zoom snap caps it sparks between frame and cylinder. Is this normal or is something wrong?
Hey wesley,
I had an M&P 340 j-frame that sparked as well....didn't wear anything out or cause any damage.....
I'll bet you can find a thread on this very phenomenon, if you can trick the cranky search feature into finding it!
 

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