686 trigger pull ,single & duoble action
- Thread starter samtan
- Start date
Cal44
Member
I don't think that is a question anyone can answer. Production variation between revolvers would make each gun slightly different.
Also, I think older 686's with all forged parts come with slightly stiffer trigger pulls than current MIM revolvers.
At least, my 25 year old no dash 686 has a little heavier trigger than some of the newer ones I've tried.
But I consider my gun's trigger very good for a factory gun with no special work done on it.
With guns, like almost everything else, it's tough to come up with "exact" answers.
Also, I think older 686's with all forged parts come with slightly stiffer trigger pulls than current MIM revolvers.
At least, my 25 year old no dash 686 has a little heavier trigger than some of the newer ones I've tried.
But I consider my gun's trigger very good for a factory gun with no special work done on it.
With guns, like almost everything else, it's tough to come up with "exact" answers.
Last edited:
scooter123
Member
Typical DA trigger pull for a new S&W Production revolver is in the 12 to 13 lbs. range with an average of about 12.5 lbs. Revolvers from the Pro Series and Performance Center typically are shipped with the Strain Screw loosened to reduce the trigger weight to a range of 9.5 to about 11 lbs with such a large amount of variation that the average isn't statistically significant. In addition, loose Strain Screw loosen more with use so the Pro Series and Performance Center revolvers that get used a lot almost universally will start to misfire. When that happens we see the complaints here and all are told to tighten the Strain Screw all the way down. BTW, if your are getting the idea that I am NOT impressed with how the Performance Center tunes their revolvers you are correct.
There are two proper method for reducing mainspring tension and obtaining a lighter double action trigger. Method one is to purchase a lighter mainspring such as those produced by Wolff Springs. The second method is to File Fit the Strain Screw to produce a specific weight when that strain screw is fully tightened down. Because what some call cheap, my preference is to use a file and it works very well for trigger pulls of 8 lbs or more. However, if you file the strain screw too much you can unbend the mainspring so much that the geometry of the spring doesn't match the geometry of the hammer motion and produce what is referred to as "knuckling" and a very uneven and rough feeling trigger stroke. Personally, I've had so many misfire issues with DA triggers under 8 lbs. that I won't bother trying to go lighter and generally adjust my triggers to 9.5 lbs. So, my cheap method using a file is perfectly suitable.
Single action triggers can vary by a huge amount. Typically at the present time a brand new S&W revolver will have a 4.5 lbs. single action break right out of the box. Give that same revolver a bit of time shooting in single action and it will drop to 4 lbs. after the sear surfaces wear in together and stabilize at that weight. Replace the factory 16 lbs. rebound spring with a 14 lbs. rebound spring and you'll typically see the single action break at just a hint over 3 lbs.. Put in a 12 lbs. rebound spring and you'll produce a single action break of about 2.5-2.6 lbs. on a well broken in new S&W revolver. Now, go old school and start stoning the Sear Ramp on the trigger to what I call an Assist Angle and you can take that single action even lighter. However, when you stone the trigger you create a situation where all of the wear on the sear on the hammer is at the tip of the sear so in time that gun will produce a situation called Push Off. Push Off means you then have to purchase a brand new hammer and probably trigger, so stoning on the trigger is something that I do NOT advise. In addition IMO anyone who can't shoot well with a 2.5 lbs. single action trigger needs to do just a tiny bit of exercise and probably spend some time with a professional firearms trainer.
There are two proper method for reducing mainspring tension and obtaining a lighter double action trigger. Method one is to purchase a lighter mainspring such as those produced by Wolff Springs. The second method is to File Fit the Strain Screw to produce a specific weight when that strain screw is fully tightened down. Because what some call cheap, my preference is to use a file and it works very well for trigger pulls of 8 lbs or more. However, if you file the strain screw too much you can unbend the mainspring so much that the geometry of the spring doesn't match the geometry of the hammer motion and produce what is referred to as "knuckling" and a very uneven and rough feeling trigger stroke. Personally, I've had so many misfire issues with DA triggers under 8 lbs. that I won't bother trying to go lighter and generally adjust my triggers to 9.5 lbs. So, my cheap method using a file is perfectly suitable.
Single action triggers can vary by a huge amount. Typically at the present time a brand new S&W revolver will have a 4.5 lbs. single action break right out of the box. Give that same revolver a bit of time shooting in single action and it will drop to 4 lbs. after the sear surfaces wear in together and stabilize at that weight. Replace the factory 16 lbs. rebound spring with a 14 lbs. rebound spring and you'll typically see the single action break at just a hint over 3 lbs.. Put in a 12 lbs. rebound spring and you'll produce a single action break of about 2.5-2.6 lbs. on a well broken in new S&W revolver. Now, go old school and start stoning the Sear Ramp on the trigger to what I call an Assist Angle and you can take that single action even lighter. However, when you stone the trigger you create a situation where all of the wear on the sear on the hammer is at the tip of the sear so in time that gun will produce a situation called Push Off. Push Off means you then have to purchase a brand new hammer and probably trigger, so stoning on the trigger is something that I do NOT advise. In addition IMO anyone who can't shoot well with a 2.5 lbs. single action trigger needs to do just a tiny bit of exercise and probably spend some time with a professional firearms trainer.
shawn mccarver
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There is no difference of which I am aware as regards the way the revolvers are built and fitted at the factory simply due to barrel weight.
TALO is a group of distributors who buy special runs of often not well thought out revolvers just to have a "special edition" to sell. Those have no difference in the action or trigger pull unless ordered and advertised as such, and I have never seen any TALO advertised as such.
So, to answer your question, no trigger pull weight difference based upon either barrel length or on TALO's special editions.
