Best Value Vintage Revolvers?

Hi everyone. I've just recently started buying pistols since my state (CA) is effectively banning handguns and I figured I'd better get some now before I no longer can. I'd like to get a revolver or two... or three but I don't know too much about them. I'd prefer S&W's, although I'm open to other brands (except for Ruger). From what I've been reading it seems that as long as I can put up with some signs of use, I might get a better value by going vintage. I'm not sure where the sweet spot is in terms of age, so my apologies if I chose to post in the wrong forum.

The things is, there seem to be a dizzying variety of models out there, especially when you include the ones that are now discontinued. I was wondering which models in particular do members think represent the best value? Not necessarily collectibility, but the highest quality for the going price. I'm open to a wide variety of types, but my first inclination is to go for ones that can shoot both .357mag and .38 special, and .22lr ones. I'm also very open to recommendations for older revolvers that don't run afoul of the no bashing rule (or PM me if you want to bash).

Also, are there any resources you could point me to on what to look for in an a used revolver to ensure that I get one that functions well? Thanks in advance.

And so I don't come in here empty handed, here's some eye candy for you all:

It's the first variant of the S&W M&P (made between 1899 and 1902 IIRC). I've shot it and it works beautifully, but I don't plan to make a habit of using it as it's a family heirloom. My great grandfather carried it in the Alaskan gold rush.

Welcome to the forum.
I'd recommend you spend some time here reading about all the different S&Ws. There is no better place to gain some knowledge about these guns. Look at all the revolver sections.
S&W 22s and 357s are very popular and are selling at all time highs but if you are not too picky or want collector guns you should be able to find some.
I'm curious, why no Rugers?

Buy a copy of the the standard catalogue of smith &wesson to start with(amazon)and depending on your budget look at the -2 versions (60s-70s) or go earlier with 4 or 5 screw (50s) guns.Or even better, look at the prewar guns.

Some of best values in revolvers are law enforcement or security company trade ins. In 357, these are mostly 4" K frames with fixed sights (models 65 and 13). Even better values are the 38 special versions (models 64 and 10).

A good start for a recent gun in 357/38 is a M686. I'd look for a pre-lock version with forged trigger and hammer. The standard catalog will tell you which model introduced the lock and MIM parts. IMHO, the M686 is one of S&W's best.

As for a 22lr, I'd look for a 617 also trying to find one with no lock.

Or if you want a smaller gun, a M63 is another good 22lr.

Can't go wrong with any of those three.

I also live in CA and am tempted to buy a new 1911 while I still can.

Dave

I suggest a look at the model 28-2 "Highway Patrolman" revolvers. Very well built and still can be found at good prices. Bought mine, a 28-2 with 6" barrel built in 1972 from a co-worker very cheap.

Check them out : http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...lman-thread-including-n-frame-ser-ranges.html

That '99 is about as nice a beginning to pistol collecting as you're gonna get. It's a beauty. Collectors around these parts draw a distinction between pistols and revolvers, but pay 'em no mind.

Very nice heirloom! I'd love to have one with family history like yours.

As for what to get next, well, you are going to get all sorts of answers! I've seen the model 15 and its stainless counterpart, the 67, going for pretty fair prices. They are .38 Special, and will handle +P with aplomb. And just for fun, here is a photo of a 1st year no-dash Model 67 I picked up last year for $350. It is in great shape and a hoot to shoot:

DO NOT BUY A FIXED SIGHT HANDGUN ! ! ! PAY THE SMALL EXTRA MONEY AND GET SOMETHING WITH ADJUSTABLE SIGHTS THAT YOU CAN TRULY ZERO IN WITH ANY WEIGHT BULLET AT ANY RANGE YOU CHOOSE TO SHOOT AT. THE M686 IS THE FINEST .357/.38 IN PRODUCTION TODAY. THEY COME IN 6 SHOT AND 7 SHOT AS THE 686+. I WOULD LOOK FOR A NO DASH, UP THROUGH A -4 VERSION. BUY A GOOD ONE--ESP IF THIS IS THE LAST ONE YOU WILL BUY. I HAVE THREE, BUT MY FAVORITE IS THE M686+ MOUNTAIN GUN. LOOK AT THE GUNS FOR SALE ON THIS FORUM OR ON GUN BROKER. THE M617 IS A GREAT .22 REVOLVER. THEY COME IN 10 SHOT AND 6 SHOT, IN A VARIETY OF BARREL LENGTHS. TRY TO GET A NO LOCK. I WAS FORCED TO BUY A CURRENT MFG VERSION WITH A LOCK, BECAUSE I WASN'T PATIENT. IT'S STILL A GREAT GUN, IF YOU END UP GOING THAT ROUTE. I HAVE AN 8 3/8 INCH BARRELED NO DASH THAT SHOOTS LIKE A RIFLE. THAT IS MY FAVORITE. THE 10 SHOT 617-2 HAS AN ALUMINUM CYLINDER. I WOULD STEER CLEAR OF THAT, AS IT WAS DISCONTINUED FOR A REASON. LOOK AT THESE GUNS AS LIFETIME INVESTMENTS THAT WILL APPRECIATE IN VALUE, ESP IN CALIFORNIA. REMEMBER THAT KNOWLEDGE IS POWER. READ EVERYTHING THAT YOU CAN ABOUT THESE MODELS. A RUGER DOESN'T COMPARE TO A S&W, BUT IT'S A DECENT GUN. WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT BUY A TAURUS ! ! ! GOOD LUCK…………
HERE'S SOME PICS OF MY 686 NO DASH, CONVERTED TO A 7 SHOT @ S&W, AND MY 8 3/8 INCH, NO DASH 617…...

Thanks for the responses, everyone. I see a few terms and features I'm unfamiliar with, so now I know some things to start looking into. The recommendations for specific models are also very helpful. Are there any red flags I should look out for when buying a used revolver?

bamabiker said:

I'm curious, why no Rugers?

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I haven't been very impressed with their semiautos, and even if I was I've vowed to not buy from them due to their involvement in enacting the 10 round limit that we still have in CA. I realize that they're fighting the new microstamping law, but it seems like they're only doing that because this one affects their profits. I have nothing against people who enjoy their Rugers, but I've decided not to buy them unless they somehow undo the damage they've done.

Cal44 said:

I also live in CA and am tempted to buy a new 1911 while I still can.

Dave

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Take a look at the single shot exemption law. Any gun sold with a barrel over 6" that can only fire one shot is exempt from the roster, so some dealers have kits to convert 1911's and will sell them to you that way. Then after you buy it you convert it back to its original form, which is viewed as gunsmithing. Not all dealers will do this, but I haven't heard of one that does SSE and can't do 1911's. Unfortunately there's no way to exempt something like a snub nosed revolver, though, and dealers often don't have kits for less common semi autos.

Revolvers

I read somewhere last week tha Ruger and smith and wesson will stop shipping gun to CA, gun dealers sometine in the futher due to the stamping, The shipping to CA buy them will have to bee seen. Never count out Ruger these are very well built guns, for the cost, and one pull = one shot, and u can use it as a hammer and still shoot, here are a few i have, but my first is smith.Good luck on your hunt, also just rember alot of dealer and people will not ship to CA. eaven if you find one.

Ruger is my 3rd favorite revolver brand, after S&W and Colt. The Super Blackhawk was one of Elmer Keith's favorites. If you buy an older one, you're not actually supporting Ruger financially. Don't count them completely out just because of their decisions. And for what it's worth, except for their .22, I'm not a fan of their autos, either.

BTW, welcome to The Forum! Stick around, this place can be entertaining! And very nice photo with a great story to go with it!

samwood said:

Some of best values in revolvers are law enforcement or security company trade ins. In 357, these are mostly 4" K frames with fixed sights (models 65 and 13). Even better values are the 38 special versions (models 64 and 10).

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Yep, for a shooter I'd say that's right on.

Some large agency just dumped a slew of 681s on the market (fixed-sight .357) that are going about $500-$550.

Some folks on the forum will tell you that's way too much, but I'd sure like to know where they find those bargains, cuz they're sure not in my neck of the woods.

I guess it is what you mean by Vintage as I feel the best values are for 38 special revolvers as they can still be had in good condition for around $400 and sometime even less depending on the condition. In 4 inch with fixed sights I would go with the Model 10, Model 64 and Model 67. With adjustable sights in the 4 inch I would go with the Model 15. If a 6 inch barrel would work I'd add the Model 14 as well and the fixed sight models like the Model 10.

In the 357 Magnum caliber with a 4 or 6 inch barrel I would got with the 686, 586, or model 28-2.

Alright, I've been combing through the info on these forums and am starting to get a better idea of what's out there. That S&W catalog is a great resource, too, which I wasn't aware of before posting here.

A couple of quick questions: Is there a quality difference that accompanies the 4 or 5 screw models, or is it just an indicator of age and collectability? Also, what can I look for when handling a gun to determine if it's shootable, besides rusting?

I'm surprised that the older guns can still be used regularly. Makes me think it might be worth getting a curio and relic license to facilitate getting some of the older guns without the PRK interfering too much.

one eye joe said:

DO NOT BUY A FIXED SIGHT HANDGUN ! ! ! PAY THE SMALL EXTRA MONEY AND GET SOMETHING WITH ADJUSTABLE SIGHTS THAT YOU CAN TRULY ZERO IN WITH ANY WEIGHT BULLET AT ANY RANGE YOU CHOOSE TO SHOOT AT. THE M686 IS THE FINEST .357/.38 IN PRODUCTION TODAY. THEY COME IN 6 SHOT AND 7 SHOT AS THE 686+. I WOULD LOOK FOR A NO DASH, UP THROUGH A -4 VERSION. BUY A GOOD ONE--ESP IF THIS IS THE LAST ONE YOU WILL BUY. I HAVE THREE, BUT MY FAVORITE IS THE M686+ MOUNTAIN GUN. LOOK AT THE GUNS FOR SALE ON THIS FORUM OR ON GUN BROKER. THE M617 IS A GREAT .22 REVOLVER. THEY COME IN 10 SHOT AND 6 SHOT, IN A VARIETY OF BARREL LENGTHS. TRY TO GET A NO LOCK. I WAS FORCED TO BUY A CURRENT MFG VERSION WITH A LOCK,

BECAUSE I WASN'T PATIENT. IT'S STILL A GREAT GUN, IF YOU END UP GOING THAT ROUTE. I HAVE AN 8 3/8 INCH BARRELED NO DASH THAT SHOOTS LIKE A RIFLE. THAT IS MY FAVORITE. THE 10 SHOT 617-2 HAS AN ALUMINUM CYLINDER. I WOULD STEER CLEAR OF THAT, AS IT WAS DISCONTINUED FOR A REASON. LOOK AT THESE GUNS AS LIFETIME INVESTMENTS THAT WILL APPRECIATE IN VALUE, ESP IN CALIFORNIA. REMEMBER THAT KNOWLEDGE IS POWER. READ EVERYTHING THAT YOU CAN ABOUT THESE MODELS. A RUGER DOESN'T COMPARE TO A S&W, BUT IT'S A DECENT GUN. WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT BUY A TAURUS ! ! ! GOOD LUCK…………
HERE'S SOME PICS OF MY 686 NO DASH, CONVERTED TO A 7 SHOT @ S&W, AND MY 8 3/8 INCH, NO DASH 617…...

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No need to shout!

I agree with what a couple others have said. Take a look at the 686. They are a little spendy right now and I don't know what the future holds for them as far as price but they are a great gun. I have a no dash and love it... but then again I have a few Rugers and love them too!

Are you looking for an investment that holds its value? I'm seeing all the used older s&w revolvers at my
LGS prices starting at $750. Guns never go down in value. You can always make your money back. Some models that maybe rare or more sought after you may make a few bucks on it depending how long you hold on to it and what condition it's in.

I have two rugers from the 70's now. One is worth $750 while the other is worth $1k. I never knew they were collectable. I know the s&w are.

I hope this CA ban on handguns doesn't spread like a virus to other states.
I'm just starting to enjoy my few s&w handguns. I always said I was born 200 years too late I just don't fit in the modern world. Maybe I was reincarnated from back then. I love being up in the mountains.

Tsujigiri said:

[...] And so I don't come in here empty handed, here's some eye candy for you all:

It's the first variant of the S&W M&P (made between 1899 and 1902 IIRC). I've shot it and it works beautifully, but I don't plan to make a habit of using it as it's a family heirloom. My great grandfather carried it in the Alaskan gold rush.

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OP, that is quite a handgun, I've got an heirloom revolver but it isn't anywhere near as cool as that one.

I know we overuse the phrase, 'If only it could talk' but that is one revolver I'd be more than happy to listen to anytime.

I think "value" ends up being muddied by preference. I love your grandfather's gun BTW. Wonderful family heirloom. Priceless.

I personally prefer the "Pre-model" guns. Prior to 1957, when model numbers were introduced, models were named such as the Terrier (Pre-32), Chief's Special (Pre-36), Model of 1905 M&P (pre-10), Highway Patrolman (Pre-28), Ladysmith (the original), and so on.

Depends on what you want to do with it. For a range plinker, you can't beat an older M&P in 38 special. You can often find them between $200 - 400 and they are smooth shooters (better than more modern ones in my opinion). You can generally find them in dusty corners of pawn shops, estate sales, and even local gun shops for quite reasonable prices (sometimes!).

I also like the Highway Patrolman if you are looking for a magnum (I have the Mod 28-2). And don't forget the .44 Magnum Model 29 (Dirty Harry's gun). I personally have a 1956 vintage Chief's Special (pre-model 36) as my carry gun.

You also have a lot of frame sizes to choose from. The I-frame (smallest) is no longer made, J-Frame (snubbies), K-frame (model 10 and similar), N-frame (model 27/28 etc.). L and X frames came later. Be careful of the .32 I-frames. They tend to be addictive...

Some models are more valuable due to rarity (K-32), some are better value due to the huge numbers produced (1905 M&P). Some are invaluable becaue of their history or family connection.

Tough choices!
Rick