X frame cracking- Real or FUD?

3rdgeargrndrr

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I have been warned by several people hearing of and "knowing a guy" that had his 460 or 500 SW frames crack shooting only factory loads. I haven't found too much info on these, other than some crazy Russian blowing his Taurus apart with a hot load.
I have read about forcing cone erosion and flame cutting but no real cracking issue. Internet FUD?
 
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It seems like the first thing people who have problems with a S&W product do if they have a complaint is join the S&W Forum so they can b**** about poor S&W quality. I have to believe that if there was any truth to this rumor that at least one person would have posted about it here at some time. As I can recall there has never yet been a post about the X-Frame guns "cracking".

The only thing I do recall is several new S&W owners who have just noticed the sideplate joint on their new J, K, L, or N Frame (and probably X-frame too) and have asked about the "crack" in the frame! Too bad the ROFLMAO emoticon isn't availalable!
 
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The only instance I can recall offhand was some time back...and it has been a while, but some fellow here had a 460 with a cracked forcing cone. If I remember the details right, he had been shooting the 200gr factory loads, which is really a ridiculously light bullet clocking at 2200fps with a lot of blast.

That's the only one I can think of.
 
Possible yes- likely no, internet FUD my opinion.

I own 19 X-frames and have shoot tens of thousands of rounds and have not had any frame issues.

All magnum hand guns experience flame cutting and forcing cone erosion. This is a function of the powder type bullet weights and pressure as opposed to the frame.

Unless pictures are posted and details provided I will remain sceptical.

The last "cracked" frame rant posted with picture turned out to be side cover.
 
I had not heard of the issue but after reading your post I checked my 460 and could not see any problems. The only loads it has seen is the 240 gr Hornady over 45 gr of H110 with Starline Brass with Fed 215 primers.
 
Just another evolution of whining about the X Frames, mostly coming from inexperienced/incompetent shooters, the same ones who were triggering the gun out of fear and a death grip, causing two rounds to be fired in quick succession.

Show us proof. In this wacky age, I wouldn’t put it past some clown to stage or induce an X frame failure in order to get his minute of “fame.” Such is the internet age. Don
 
DSCN0529%20(Large).JPG


Picture credit goes to "Whoever".
 
The article above meantions some of the design challenges and states the issue was in the development of not an issue with production guns.

In the above photo all I see is some forcing cone erosion - normal in my opinion for a well shoot magnum revolver.

You can limit erosion by not shooting light for caliber bullets and using slower powers if you are a hand loader.

200 grain is light for caliber, shoot 240 grains or heaver, 300 grains and up preferred. note they are also cheaper than the FTX if you are a hand loader.

Avoid Lil'gun and similar powders.

Using IMR 4227 will provide great results with those heaver bullets, and erosion will be minimal.

If you really need to get the last bit of speed then H110., but another 80fps is not worth much in the real world. Matter of fact you can these 250 fps slower (1600 fps) and still take any animal in North America.

We all like the rush of the pressure wave and concussion of the 200 FTX loads but the reality is shooting the heaver bullets will extend the life of your forcing cone and the 460 will still be as effective as any hunting revolver out there.
 
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Afternoon ruggyh;

After you get a little more experience on the S&W revolvers you will be able pick on things like the crack in the forcing cone shown in that picture & the gas leakage line that visibly shown coming from that crack.
 
Gas cutting typically seen as part of erosion is not a crack, provide a macro photo and you will be able to distinguish between the two.

(Note: as an internet viewer of a photograph we are handy capped)

From your photo I don't see a crack.

Excessive flame cutting could be considered as a potential stress riser from which a crack could could form possibly.

I have seen and have forcing cones that have eroded completely to the edge and have not developed into cracks, not saying it is not possible just saying I have not seen any 460 or 500 shot more than mine and again I am sure there are some out there.
 
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I would not certify that as a crack from a pic.

Magnaflux or a "Hilbilly" magnaflux by spraying the suspected area with carb cleaner then hitting the same area with a torch or heat gun.

If its a crack you will see solvent boil out of the crack once heat is applied.
 
I would not certify that as a crack from a pic.

Magnaflux or a "Hilbilly" magnaflux by spraying the suspected area with carb cleaner then hitting the same area with a torch or heat gun.

If its a crack you will see solvent boil out of the crack once heat is applied.


Morning cal50

A close inspection shows a definite crack (no Magnaflux needed). It is definitely crack as it shows no flame cutting erosion on the outside.


DSCN0530%20(Large).JPG
 
From your second photo it looks like we have a crack.
Can you provide any insight into round count and type loads shoot?

Send it back to S&W from barrel replacement, its warranty work.
 
Morning ruggyh;

I wish I could give more info, but it's not my gun so I don't have the history.
 
Possible yes- likely no, internet FUD my opinion.

I own 19 X-frames and have shoot tens of thousands of rounds and have not had any frame issues.

All magnum hand guns experience flame cutting and forcing cone erosion. This is a function of the powder type bullet weights and pressure as opposed to the frame.

Unless pictures are posted and details provided I will remain sceptical.

The last "cracked" frame rant posted with picture turned out to be side cover.

Man, would I love to see 19 X frame revolvers lined up, what a sight to behold that would be!
 
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