.40 cal ALL stainless 8 shot revolver?
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MWC2068
Well-known member
I'm not sure about the 8 shot, but they made a model 646 ss .40, then later they came out with the 610 10mm that you can shoot 40's in, but I thought that they were both mooncliped 6 shooters.
The 646 was a 6 shot 40 S&W revolver with a 4" full lug barrel that was manufactured from 2000-2003.
The 610 is a 10MM Auto revolver with a full lug barrel that has been offered in 3", 4", 5" and 6 1/2"
The 610 was introduced in 1989 and has been in and out of production since that date. Even though the 610 is chambered for the 10MM Auto cartridge, since it head-spaces on the moon clip instead of the case mouth, the revolver can also safely chamber and fire the 40 S&W cartridge in moon clips
The 610 is a 10MM Auto revolver with a full lug barrel that has been offered in 3", 4", 5" and 6 1/2"
The 610 was introduced in 1989 and has been in and out of production since that date. Even though the 610 is chambered for the 10MM Auto cartridge, since it head-spaces on the moon clip instead of the case mouth, the revolver can also safely chamber and fire the 40 S&W cartridge in moon clips
Georgia1911
Well-known member
I get the revolver preference for reliability, but I am curious about the caliber choice. Any particular reason you are focusing on 10mm/40S&W for home defense?
I would stop listening to the person that told you those stories. He/She does not know what they are talking about.
I have been shooting my 3 10MM Auto revolvers from S&W for about 15 or 20 years now as have thousands of other happy 310/610 owners.
There is no epidemic model failure due to rim thickness.
Georgia1911
Well-known member
Now I get it.
Engine49guy
Well-known member
The .40 and 10 mm revolvers have become highly sought after collectables and their sales prices reflect that.
IMO you can get a quality S&W in .357 Magnum for half the price that offers as much or more power than the .40 S&W / 10mm auto .
4 inch S&W .357 Mag L frame Mt. Gun
BB 180 gr. Hard Cast LFN-GC (1,400fps/M.E. 783 ft. lbs.)
BB 158 gr. J.H.C. (1,475fps/M.E. 763 ft. lbs.)
.40 S&W +P
BB 180 gr. F.M.J. (1,100 fps/M.E. 484 ft. lbs.)
10mm
BB 180 gr. J.H.P. (1,350fps/M.E. 728 ft. lbs.)
BB 220 gr. Hard Cast - FN (1,200 fps/ME 703 ft. lbs.)
If your research suggests the .357 wont accomplish your goals perhaps the .44 Magnum is the next logical step ?
The .357 also doesnt require moon clips or de mooning tools and can fire .38 special on the range .
41mag657ss
Member
I believe this is a reference to 610's modified for IDPA, etc, (chamfered cylinders, Novak sights, etc) with lighter mainsprings. Some of these guns are only reliable with Federal primers. A non-issue for their owners, but a possible issue for the next owner.
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I have put a few thousand rounds through the 610 I bought 20+ years ago and have not had a single failure to fire. I have fired it a few times with 40s in moon clips but most of the time at the range I just drop 10mm in the cylinder and let them head space on the rim. Moon clips may be great for a quick reload but pulling the shells in and out of is an extra step I would rather skip. The gun has always shot very well and the only problem I have had is the ejector rod sometimes comes loose. A little loctite would probably fix that but I have never bothered.
But now that I have a SW69 I am probably going to sell the 610. I want to wait a few months for the new to wear off my .44 before I do so but for me the .44 is a better choice. The sort of ammo needed for defending yourself against large animals is both more powerful and easier to find in .44 magnum. And while I have another gun for HD with .44 specials the 69 would work for that too if you are OK with only having 5 rounds available.
The older 610s will certainly work for what you want but you will be paying twice as much as a new 44 or 357 would cost. And there is a reason cartridges designed for revolvers have rims, it is more convenient and reliable.
My 610 is all stainless but I am curious why you capitalized "ALL". My model 69 is the first S&W I have seen that has a few blued parts on a stainless gun, have they been doing this for a long time?
HarrishMasher
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Just FYI, the 610/310 and 646 are not currently in production, so you have to buy a used one. Which is fine, except demand outstrips supply. So expect to pay $1,500 to $2,000 for any of the .40 and 10mm models.
I just don't see what 40/10mm offers that 357 and 44mag don't for more than twice the price? I would buy a 357 or 44mag and put the savings toward ammo to practice with. 38spl is the same price as 40cal. 357 is a little cheaper than 10mm. 44mag is about the same price as 10mm, maybe a tad more expensive.
I think the 40/10mm S&W revolvers are a great collectors or conversation piece and have a super cool factor. If you want to buy one for those reasons, I totally dig it. But for practical purposes 357 and 44mag just make more sense on the gun and ammo fronts.
I just don't see what 40/10mm offers that 357 and 44mag don't for more than twice the price? I would buy a 357 or 44mag and put the savings toward ammo to practice with. 38spl is the same price as 40cal. 357 is a little cheaper than 10mm. 44mag is about the same price as 10mm, maybe a tad more expensive.
I think the 40/10mm S&W revolvers are a great collectors or conversation piece and have a super cool factor. If you want to buy one for those reasons, I totally dig it. But for practical purposes 357 and 44mag just make more sense on the gun and ammo fronts.
In all honesty...Glock, love 'em or hate 'em, may have what you need. There are several reasons why you should consider a Glock 20 for HD and woods carry. The 15 round capacity...one third the price of a 610...and you can buy a conversion barrel (such as Lone Wolf) to use the much cheaper .40 S&W.
I bought the 20 SF long before the 610, and it has been as reliable a shooter as any Smith revolver i've ever owned. I'd never consider using the 610 for HD just because of the possibility of it being taken away for good should it ever be used in a HD situation.
If you decide on a 610, good luck in your search for one!!
I must disagree
In all honesty...you should never, Never, NEVER buy a firearm that you HATE for defensive use.
If you HATE it you will not take it to the range enough
If you do not take it to the range enough you will not practice with it
If you HATE it you will not carry it all the time
If you HATE it you may not even put it out for home defense all the time
If you HATE it you will always be wondering why you did not buy the gun you LOVE
My LIFE is worth more than the cost of any firearm out there, isn't yours?
Just buy the gun you LOVE
Pizza Bob
SWCA Member
Just for clarification's sake: The 610/310 series are N-frames and will shoot 10 mm or .40 S&W in moon clips. The 646 is an L-frame and is limited to .40 S&W only.
What was said about light strikes and guns used for IDPA, or other games, is true of any revolver used for competition and is not specific to the 10 mm / .40 S&W. Just depends on how light the owner wanted to go and what they were willing to put up with.
Adios,
Pizza Bob
What was said about light strikes and guns used for IDPA, or other games, is true of any revolver used for competition and is not specific to the 10 mm / .40 S&W. Just depends on how light the owner wanted to go and what they were willing to put up with.
Adios,
Pizza Bob
thanks for the very enlightening lecture...but my not so clear choice of words was to imply that Glocks are either loved or hated...not to buy a gun that you hate.
Dan Christopher
Well-known member
My two cents...for what they're worth:
If your primary purpose for the gun is woods/trail defense against four legged critters...AND ( and this is important ) if you are for whatever reason committed to that gun being a 10mm, a Glock 20 is a much better choice than a 610.
With the G20, you have a 15+1 capacity. You also have a gun that is way less expensive than a 610 and much easier to replace. You also have a gun that when it acquires all the knocks and dings that trail carry will always bring with it, it won't matter.
If I scratch up a 550 dollar Glock, no big deal. If I scratched up a 1500 dollar + S&W 610, I wouldn't be happy at all.
All that said, either 357 Mag or 44 Mag would be better choices than a 10mm.
But if you have to have a 10mm for trail carry, Glock is a better choice for that all things considered.
If your primary purpose for the gun is woods/trail defense against four legged critters...AND ( and this is important ) if you are for whatever reason committed to that gun being a 10mm, a Glock 20 is a much better choice than a 610.
With the G20, you have a 15+1 capacity. You also have a gun that is way less expensive than a 610 and much easier to replace. You also have a gun that when it acquires all the knocks and dings that trail carry will always bring with it, it won't matter.
If I scratch up a 550 dollar Glock, no big deal. If I scratched up a 1500 dollar + S&W 610, I wouldn't be happy at all.
All that said, either 357 Mag or 44 Mag would be better choices than a 10mm.
But if you have to have a 10mm for trail carry, Glock is a better choice for that all things considered.
at_liberty
Well-known member
If you want a revolver for other than competition, get one in a caliber for revolvers and skip the moon clip business. If ammo is the controlling factor, buy a semi auto designed to shoot it.
I have two Smith 625s and a Charter Arms 9mm that doesn't require moon clips, but I don't buy into the same considerations for 40/10mm. Whatever turns you on, but my opinion is not to encourage.
I have two Smith 625s and a Charter Arms 9mm that doesn't require moon clips, but I don't buy into the same considerations for 40/10mm. Whatever turns you on, but my opinion is not to encourage.
