Model 66-8

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revolvernerd9719

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I've been looking for any posts on the 66-8 models that Smith has come out with in the last few years, but I can't find them. So I thought I would just start a new post.
Now I'm a traditionalist and I love the old world fine tuning of the older 66 models( I don't own one, but handled plenty), but the new 66-8 caught my eye and I have a few questions for anyone who is in the know.
My questions are as follows, the 66-8 is built on the K frame, so it's grip frame is the same size as the older 66 K frame right? Next is I was wondering if the forcing cone is a full cone and not the flat style at the 6 o' clock position like the older 19 and 66 models had, right? The last question is I've read that the barrel is a two piece barrel, what does that exactly mean and I heard that if you need to have it fixed for any reason you have to send it back to Smith because they wont release to gunsmiths the special tools to work on the two piece barrels. Is that true?
I guess what I'm asking is, if the new 66-8 has the same grip size as the older m66 and the same weight approx. as the older m66 but can shoot hoter .357 mags in it because it has a full forcing cone, should I look at getting it over the older 66 models? Again I love the m19,66,13, and 65, but I already have a Rossi that I can only shoot the 158gr. mags through, much like the older m66's. I really wanted a Smith that matched everything the older 66's had, but could handle the hotter mags, and I didn't want the 686 with it's full under lug and the heftier weight. So I'm I right in thinking the 66-8 is a good way to go to get all the characteristics of the older m66, but be able to shoot hotter .357 mags when I want?
 
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The 66-8's two-piece barrel is an inner barrel screwed into an outer liner that has a lug interfacing into the frame to make it easier to index to 12 o'clock, straight up. The forcing cone has no flat spot. Changing the barrel is, as you mentioned, a factory job. S&W has kept the tool, at least so far, to itself. I suspect too, they want to control the process (e.g., over-torquing can damage the frame/lug interface).

While it is a K-frame, the gun has a slightly bulkier profile (there is no confusing the elegant profile of a 70s era 66 with the new one -- the new one is nice, but just a little blocky for my taste) -- some holsters designed for the older 66s do not work with the new ones.
 
If you want to shoot hot loads in a 4" K frame the new 66 is the way to go. Technology advances if not the aesthetics. Smiths come with a lifetime warranty so any barrel fix is their problem, not your problem.
 
The older 66's were certainly charming and lookers but the new 66-8 is functionally a real improvement. Weight and feel are really the same. Grip frame is the same as the older round butt 66's. The 66-8 has a full forcing cone. The two piece barrel has the barrel itself held in tension by the outer shroud. It's true that repair is a S&W deal. The upshot is that these newer two piece barrel 66-8's have gained a great accuracy reputation. The jury is still out on the durability of the 66-8 with magnum loads. Given the newer engineering features of the -8, I bet it would easily outlast the older guns before "shooting loose". I use my 66-8 for mostly 38+P and milder magnum loads and fewer full magnums. It has proven to be very accurate and not fussy about ammo. If you want the feel of the old 66's and add the ability to shoot some full magnums, the 66-8 is your gun.
 
Oooh, I'm a HUGE fan of the new 66-8. There have been some of the usual cases about the sleeved barrels being a bit canted. When you give one a look-over, inspect the top strap to ensure the ribs line up nicely.

I installed a Wilson Combat spring kit in mine, which made it a completely different gun in DA (SA was pretty nice right out of the box, I thought, but that improved a bit as well). I also installed a Hi-Viz FO front sight that gets me on target quickly. As previously noted, I've had fantastic luck with mine gobbling mild 38s, hot 357s, and everything in between. Accuracy? Oh yes, yes indeed! If you do your job, you'll be very pleased with how far you can stretch this out.

There are deals to be had out there, if you look a bit. Bud's has had them priced under $690 lately.

This is one of my two very favorite guns to shoot, the other being a CZ 75B in matte stainless, with Cajun Gunworks upgrades. On any given day I'd be hard-pressed to pick one over the other, but if I could only have one, this is it. Sorry about the slightly rotten image, but a thread like this requires pictures.

SampW%20NM66%20Combat%20Magnum%2009.23.2015_zpsgiijf1ly.jpg
 
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I have one and I really like it shot over 1000 rounds of LSWC and probably another 100 jacked reloads and love the feel and handling of revolver. As for being wider or bigger frame than older K frames I don't see it I have a 13-2 with heavy 4" barrel and it looks the same only difference are grip size. The new 66-8 has no gas ring so watch if you shoot dirty or poorly matched reloads because you will get cylinder bind from lead or carbon build up I learned what loads my likes and have no problems.

Try the Google/ Smith forum search engine, type in "Smith Wesson model 66-8 " you will find some good posts about the 66-8.
 

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Thanks everyone for all the info about the 66-8. I think I'll just have to handle the older m66, 66-8, and the 4" 686 all at the same time and see which one works best for me. I wish I could get all of them. Haha. The 66-8 sounds like it's a good blend of the older m66 features and new updated features to make it almost perfect. Although I was wondering when the extra parts will be out. I think for me I would like to change the cylinder latch, hammer and trigger to match the color of the frame itself. Speaking of new guns does anyone know if Smith will re-introduce any updated classic versions of the model 19 or 13? Just wondering. Thanks again for the info. I'll go this weekend and try one in person to see what I think. Thanks again.
 
Oh, sorry I was so eager to do more research on the 66-8 I forgot to ask, just curious to know between the older m66's the 66-8 and the 4" 686 which one would any of you choose? Granted it comes down to what you would use it for, but I think we all would like a do all sidearm. A little target, pinking,conceal/open carry, and meeting the beasts of the Forrest in the wild. What would you all choose?
 
revolvernerd9719 said:
Oh, sorry I was so eager to do more research on the 66-8 I forgot to ask, just curious to know between the older m66's the 66-8 and the 4" 686 which one would any of you choose? Granted it comes down to what you would use it for, but I think we all would like a do all sidearm. A little target, pinking,conceal/open carry, and meeting the beasts of the Forrest in the wild. What would you all choose?
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M-66's of the original sort, ideally, M-66-3 or 4. These have a modified yoke system for longer life. I'd avoid M-66-8 or any new Smiths and buy a Ruger GP-100 or a M-686 if I shot a lot of .357 ammo.

But my basic handgun, if I had just one, would be a four-inch M-66-3. I'd add a M-686 or GP-100 ASAP. But an all-round gun doesn't need .357 power a lot of the time. A .357 Magnum is not a range gun. It's a killing gun, when you need that much power.

BTW, I'd buy a M-60 snub .38, too, maybe before the heavier .357. A M-66 is concealable, but that has its limits, so you do need a J-frame gun or a Ruger SP-101.
I'd avoid the various aluminum or titanium framed guns, especially in .357. Recoil is grim.
 
Texas Star said:
M-66's of the original sort, ideally, M-66-3 or 4. These have a modified yoke system for longer life. I'd avoid M-66-8 or any new Smiths and buy a Ruger GP-100 or a M-686 if I shot a lot of .357 ammo.

But my basic handgun, if I had just one, would be a four-inch M-66-3. I'd add a M-686 or GP-100 ASAP. But an all-round gun doesn't need .357 power a lot of the time. A .357 Magnum is not a range gun. It's a killing gun, when you need that much power.

BTW, I'd buy a M-60 snub .38, too, maybe before the heavier .357. A M-66 is concealable, but that has its limits, so you do need a J-frame gun or a Ruger SP-101.
I'd avoid the various aluminum or titanium framed guns, especially in .357. Recoil is grim.
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Texas Star why would you avoid the 66-8 or other new Smith & Wessons? The new 66-8 has been reengineered with with better locking system and larger forcing cone.
 
Here are some measurements I took a while back – remember these are quick and dirty with dial calipers.

Frame window front to back:
M66 - 1.815”
M19 - 1.805”

Frame window top to bottom:
M66 - 1.475”
M19 - 1.475”

Top strap:
M66 - 0.665”
M19 - 0.655”

Cylinder Diameter:
M66 - 1.450”
M19 - 1.450”

Cylinder Length:
M66 - 1.670”
M19 - 1.675” (Recessed charge holes)

M66 Barrel is larger in diameter than the M19 – I didn’t measure it.

Here are some pictures top two are of the M66 barrel shank and face of cyl assy that shows how the cyl closes with the full size barrel shank of the M66.

Bottom two of M19 – couldn’t get a real clear picture of the cut on the bottom of the barrel shank.

M66
IMG_0651_zpsc72dd6d3.jpg

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IMG_0639_zps339ba85c.jpg

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Model 19-3
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IMG_0644_zps54a4a6f6.jpg

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IMG_0649_zps8341aeef.jpg

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I’ve had one since the middle of August 2014. I’ve fired a little over 2,000 rnds of middle to upper level .357 Mag loads (all 158gr) thru the gun with no problems. FWIW, I’m favorably impressed with the new m66 and have basically retired my M19.
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Hope some of this helps.

Paul
 
I am sure the new smiths possess some metallurgical advances, but my 66-1 hasn't failed to go bang when I pulled the trigger and there's something about P&R models that float my boat. There's no amount of propaganda or brainwashing that will convince me to buy the new MIM, IL versions. They just don't have the je ne sais quoi the older Smiths have.
 

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