Expanding hammer nose rivet

Kris Whiteleather · Dec 16, 2016

Replacing my hammer nose rivet on 625-3. What is the technique to assure it expands while staying below the surface level of the hammer?

I am imagining putting two steel BBs on the ends of the installed rivet then squeezing them with either a vise or a set of vise grips.

Any other way to assure even expansion of the ends of that rivet?

riversalmon · Dec 16, 2016

There is an excellent video on' you tube ' that shows the entire process. I believe it is under the gunsmithing sections Smith and Wesson. Hope this helps.

armorer951 · Dec 16, 2016

I use an approx 1/8" flat punch or a 1/8" center punch, laying the assembled hammer and parts down on a flat peening block. Strike each side of the rivet firmly, and then carefully center the rivet after staking by very lightly tapping on the side that is flush with the surface of the hammer itself, so that both ends of the staked rivet are slightly below the edge of the rivet cavity in the hammer.

After staking in completed, check the integrity of the staking by pushing on the rivet with a pin punch using hand pressure to verify it is secure, then simply verify free movement and rebound of the hammer nose as assembled on the rivet.

Big Cholla · Dec 16, 2016

Make sure that you don't over tighten the riveting. The hammer nose has to be able to float up and down. Some of the older hammer nose came with a tiny spring to hold it in the desired position but still allowing it to move to center in the hammer bushing when the hammer is dropped by the trigger. ....

Kris Whiteleather · Dec 16, 2016

Big Cholla said:
Make sure that you don't over tighten the riveting. The hammer nose has to be able to float up and down. Some of the older hammer nose came with a tiny spring to hold it in the desired position but still allowing it to move to center in the hammer bushing when the hammer is dropped by the trigger. ....

Yes, I noted that the hole in the nose is larger than the rivet by a good margin.

The way I plan to flare the rivet with a hardened ball-tipped punch should keep the middle of the rivet at its original diameter. The punch is too large to fit inside the rivet, but the curve of the ball will reach in by 1/16 of an inch in.

Kind of like dropping a bowling ball into a 4" down spout...at least I HOPE it flares and peens out like that.

armorer951 · Dec 16, 2016

You can re-invent the wheel if you want. The instructions I gave you are the technique taught at the armorer's school.

4barrel · Dec 16, 2016

This is a lot better than reading a book. I have my ears open to the last post. Lots better than TV. I like all comments. I can replace a few parts & save money by looking at your posts. I work with my hands so this is right down my alley. Thanks to all the armorers.

armorer951 · Dec 16, 2016

S&W calls the punch used to set the rivet a "flaring tool". Looks alot like a center punch to me.

Muley Gil · Dec 17, 2016

armorer951 said:
I use an approx 1/8" center punch or a 1/8" center punch, laying the assembled hammer and parts down on a flat peening block. Strike each side of the rivet firmly, and then carefully center the rivet after staking by very lightly tapping on the side that is flush with the surface of the hammer itself, so that both ends of the staked rivet are slightly below the edge of the rivet cavity in the hammer.

After staking in completed, check the integrity of the staking by pushing on the rivet with a pin punch using hand pressure to verify it is secure.

I've used the same method to expand the rivet.

chief38 · Dec 18, 2016

As they said above, ^^^^^^^^^^^ and just want to mention that back a bunch of years ago when the Rivets were hard to buy new, I learned how to remove the old Rivet so it could be used again. Yea, I much prefer to start with a fresh new Rivet, but just wanted to mention that if careful, the old one can be reused if need be. I believe new ones are now available at Powers Custom.

Kris Whiteleather · Jan 7, 2017

Thanks to all! Forgot to get back you you.

I used "centering" punches. Mounted static one in my vise and used a spring-loaded one to save the need for hitting it with a hammer.

Every thing working just fine. Thanks for the suggestions.

Expanding hammer nose rivet

Kris Whiteleather

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riversalmon

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armorer951

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Big Cholla

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Kris Whiteleather

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armorer951

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4barrel

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armorer951

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Muley Gil

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chief38

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Kris Whiteleather

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