Any J frame shooting tips?

I was taught pistol shooting by starting with Crossman 1911 pellet gun, K-22's, graduating to 6"K38's and finally 6.5", 5" and 3.5" N frame 357's!

I began shooting snubbies by shooting Dad's Colt Detective Specials, which are basicly a M-10 2" short grip round butt. My Dad (ex-FBI) started me off shooting single action light wadcutters until I had a good understanding and accuracy with it.

Then he had me shoot DA with again wadcutters and when I got to be decent, then to .38 Special standard/medium loads. Then to the FBI load.

When I transitioned to J frame S&W's it was a piece of cake. SA with wadcutters, then work my way up DA with more powerful loads.

I've got to the point where I am as comfortable with an AirWeight J frame as I am a N frame out to 100 yards on a 12" target.
 
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Wow! Lots of great advice here. Maybe this thread should become a "sticky".

I'm really pleased about how I shoot my shooter J frames. Especially my Md 49 and Md 649-3. But I've gained several tips here that may make me even better.
 
I was sick of the 442 after the range session today, but after reading all the replies, I wish I could shoot it again tonight. Thanks for the tips.
 
ContinentalOp said:
I use the vise analogy for applying pressure with the support hand, except the pressure is applied side-to-side. I use equal pressure. I squeeze hard until my hands shake and then back off pressure until the shaking stops. Firm pressure is applied with both hands.
Click to expand...

ContinentalOp gave good advice. I just condensed it to highlight this part.

A lightweight J-Frame is a bit snappy. Without a firm, no make that FIRM, grip it will jump all over the place. So will your shots. There's not a lot to hang on to, so you gotta hang on TIGHT.

The other benefit to a tight grip is it doesn't hurt much. Instead of the gun slamming into your hand, it just pushes it back.
 
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When practicing with mine I put an 8x10" paper target out to 5 yards.
If I score hits consistently I'm satisfied, since any close encounter should fall into that range. 20 rounds at one sitting is normal for me.
 
I've carried an all-steel J-frame daily for a good many years, but I know some people practice with a steel gun and then carry the identical model Airweight.

Not a recommendation--I'm happy with steel--but some shooters say it works for them.
 
I would have to 2nd the Pachmayr compact grip for my s&w 642. The factory grips are good, but too smal for my hands and I kept getting knuckle bit on top of my right thumb from the cylinder release. The new grips helped tremendously.
 
You gotta hold it steady.....

..right on through the trigger break, not while the trigger is breaking. Do a lot of dry fire practice. Put a penny on top of the gun and see if it stays through the whole trigger operation. Have someone take videos. Watch yourself in the mirror.

I think the key is not gripping tightly, but using the grip that holds the gun most tightly/rigidly with the least movement after the trigger break and the beginning of recoil.

S&W revolvers are generally sighted to shoot heavier bullets at POA. That's not so much a big deal to me as pulling right or left. An inch up or down isn't as critical, but still needs to be refined in your gun.

I put Hogues on my wife's alloy gun and Pachmehrs on my steel J frame. Instantly shot better and more comfortably with defense ammo, ESPECIALLY the alloy mod. 38.

I sympathize with you. It took a lot of work to be able for me to shoot snubs anywhere in the acceptable range. Some people are good with them. I really have to work at it.

I often relate the story of Hickok45 on Youtube hitting a gong at 80 yards with snubs and pocket pistols. I'm pretty jealous, but if you watch his form, it's easy to see how he does it, Even if not as easy for us.

PS: Your grip on a revolver is a bit different from that on a semi. On a revolver try rotating your grip until the web of your thumb and finger is on the backstrap. The pull of your trigger finger is straight down the hand, wrist and arm. At least that's the advice from someone who is trying to be a better shooter like you. Anybody with great technique, please chime in and give us some pointers.
 
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Get some proper grips like these. Make all the difference. I have shot high score with the 640-1 at the top in carry qualification. I will not shoot a J frame without a good rubber grip. Makes no appreciable difference in concealment. I prefer to carry a k snub, but always have that 642 near. I also shoot it sparingly. Just a few times a year. Trying to shoot one with an exposed backstrap is not my idea of fun, but neither is hitting my head with a hammer.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
2f37ea8685abf3d4eba2ce260ac8fa14.jpg
 
nanney1 said:
I was sick of the 442 after the range session today, but after reading all the replies, I wish I could shoot it again tonight. Thanks for the tips.
Click to expand...

You didn't mention how old your revolver is, or how much it's been fired.
I second the dry-fire suggestions. My 442 trigger has smoothed out over a period of time. My girlfriend has a 642 that only has around 100 through it. The difference is night and day.
 
petepeterson said:
You didn't mention how old your revolver is, or how much it's been fired.
I second the dry-fire suggestions. My 442 trigger has smoothed out over a period of time. My girlfriend has a 642 that only has around 100 through it. The difference is night and day.
Click to expand...

442 was purchased new on Dec. 30, so it's not even a month old. First range trip was 50 rounds of Remington UMC 125 grain fmj and 15 rounds of Hornady Critical Defense +P 110 grain FTX.

2nd range trip yesterday was 50 rounds of Remington 130 grain fmj and 5 rounds of the Hornady +P. So, only 120 rounds total. And probably an equal number of dry fires.
 
Sol-Invictus said:
Get some proper grips like these. Make all the difference. I have shot high score with the 640-1 at the top in carry qualification. I will not shoot a J frame without a good rubber grip. Makes no appreciable difference in concealment. I prefer to carry a k snub, but always have that 642 near. I also shoot it sparingly. Just a few times a year. Trying to shoot one with an exposed backstrap is not my idea of fun, but neither is hitting my head with a hammer.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
2f37ea8685abf3d4eba2ce260ac8fa14.jpg
Click to expand...

What type of grips are those? Particularly, the bottom gun pictured.
 
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They are smiths j frame combat grips available on the Smith and Wesson site.

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It is REAL easy....

nanney1 said:
I was sick of the 442 after the range session today, but after reading all the replies, I wish I could shoot it again tonight. Thanks for the tips.
Click to expand...

It's really easy to get discouraged shooting a snub, especially a J frame. But learning and practice turns it into a valuable skill. I've got a 6" 686 that makes me look GREAT from when I first got it. HONING that skill though, still takes learning and practice.
 
Sol-Invictus said:
They are smiths j frame combat grips available on the Smith and Wesson site.
Click to expand...

I've purchased the three-finger Smith and Wesson factory rubber grips, as shown in the bottom of the picture, the factory store web page. They were under $30. However, right now (26 Jan 18) they are not on the S&W web site store... Rubber Grips - Smith & Wesson

They come stock on several J frame models, particularly the 640's. They work well for me. I like them better than the Hogue rubber grips because they are a bit smaller and thinner.

But I think you'd have to call S&W to ask for them special order, because they do not appear to be available. Hopefully, they will be back in the web store soon.
 
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JohnRippert said:
Practice, practice, practice.

Dry fire, dry fire, dry fire.

Rinse, and repeat.
Click to expand...

It takes years of practice...Jerry Miculek didn't get where he's at in two or three range trips...decades of hard practice made him. And he has some God given abilities some of us will never have.
Put your dues in and don't think buying a special gizmo will magically make you a crack shot...it wont.
Gary
 
FWIW, my view: I don't know how much shooting experience the OP has prior to the purchase of the J frame. I certainly don't want to be presumptuous, but I should say, that for shooting handguns in general, it can often take starting shooters hundreds or even thousands of rounds before they stop cringing before shots in anticipation of the recoil and associated discomfort. This is especially true of small carry guns chambered in powerful cartridges, like the alloy J frame in .38 Special.

I'm guessing it took me thousands of rounds before the flinching impulse was more or less under control. So the training is as much psychological as it is muscle memory, at least in that sense.

If this is the case with the OP, then check if the ammo is +P. That might be a good place to start. Forego the +P for a while and use some standard ammo, both for practice and carry. Hornady makes a "Custom" non+P ammo that has less recoil and pressure, but still has an expanding SD projectile.

I also like the suggestion of bigger/better grips, though I have no experience with them on the J frame. Also, focus on the front sight when shooting.
 
Tried the crossover thumb grip which solved the cylinder release bite...but still suck wind shooting. Will order some new grips and march onward. All 638 shots were SA....DA aren't even on target.
The FIRM grip also helped....thanks for the tips!
 

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