Any J frame shooting tips?

OP here: Saw some actual improvement with the 442 this weekend. Used the grip with the left thumb on top of my right as described by a couple of posters. Did some extra dry firing and tried the dry firing with the penny on top. Actually got it to stay a few times and ever so often could do two fires in a row with the penny. Never three though.

Used splatter targets so I could see where the holes were punched instead of a silhouette with tons of holes in it and no idea where the round went. Started out at 2 yards and put it on the bullseye. Moved back to 3 yards and then went to 4 yards and finally 5 yards. Shot much better at this distance than I ever have before. Then got cocky and went one handed and missed the target completely. Oh well. Gonna need some extra work there.

Limited myself to 25 rounds of fmj and 5 rounds of my carry ammo. Still using the factory grip. Thanks for all of the tips.
 
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OP here: Saw some actual improvement with the 442 this weekend. Used the grip with the left thumb on top of my right as described by a couple of posters. Did some extra dry firing and tried the dry firing with the penny on top. Actually got it to stay a few times and ever so often could do two fires in a row with the penny. Never three though.

Used splatter targets so I could see where the holes were punched instead of a silhouette with tons of holes in it and no idea where the round went. Started out at 2 yards and put it on the bullseye. Moved back to 3 yards and then went to 4 yards and finally 5 yards. Shot much better at this distance than I ever have before. Then got cocky and went one handed and missed the target completely. Oh well. Gonna need some extra work there.

Limited myself to 25 rounds of fmj and 5 rounds of my carry ammo. Still using the factory grip. Thanks for all of the tips.

WTG, nanney1. REGULAR PRACTICE. IS PROBABLY THE BIGGEST FACTOR IN IMPROVING THE SHOOTING OF YOUR J-FRAME, OR ANY OTHER FIREARM THAT YOU MIGHT OWN. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK ! ! !
 
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I would recommend shooting a larger revolver first like a model 10 then shooting the j frame with a glove or low power ammo then shoot it with no glove and work your way up to higher powered ammo
 
nanney1, I had the same problem as you with my Model 36 "Chief's Special." I put some Altamont boot grips on my Chief and my groups tightened up considerably.

Model 36 "Chief's Special" with original grips.
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Model 36 "Chief's Special" with Altamont boot grips.
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Thanks for looking at my Chief's Special.

God bless,
Birdgun
 
I have added S&W walnut round-butt to square-butt conversion grips to five of my J-frames and it makes a world of difference to me. Three of my shooting partners converted after they tried mine. S&W part number 411740000 "Grip J-AH Stipple, LOGO. About $45. As far as I know, Smith is still shipping their model 60 pro model with these - check out the picture at Performance Center(R) Pro Series(R) Model 60 | Smith & Wesson
 
RE: Snap cap / Penny Dry Fire. Both SWLog (post 20) and RWSMITH (post 28) recommended balancing something on the top of the gun while dry-firing. I must be overlooking something very obvious, but how do you see the front site on a J-frame with something between the rear site and front site? Isn't sight alignment practice part of the dry-fire exercise?
 
I went to the gun range a week or so ago. Shot my MP's (9mm, 40, & 40 Shield). What fun! Then I decided to put a few rounds down range with my little 442 (Crimson Trace grips) loaded with +p ammo since I hadn't shot in awhile. Having adjusted my trigger finger to the nice easy pull of the MP's I forgot how the little mule could kick. It took about five rounds to re-adjust to a trigger similar to my Daisy Red Ryder except with lots of snap. The next five rounds were much better. I'm glad I re-acquainted myself with it. I won't go so long without shooting it again! :o
 
Practice works. At least I'm getting a bit better. Owned this 438 for a few years. Decided to learn how to shoot it this year. Still room for improvement.
 

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I found that there's a tendency to lift the front site up so you can see it better. This is a mistake. The small trench rear site needs the front site only barely visible. Keep the front site just high enough to see it peaking up between the two sides of the little trench rear site. It really isn't much.

Practice dry firing the snub at a target. This will help mitigate any movement when pulling the trigger.

At 7 yards I've been able to keep all five rounds inside a fist sized group, with double action pulls. That's about as good as it gets for me, and it should do just fine for defensive purposes.
 
Practice works. At least I'm getting a bit better. Owned this 438 for a few years. Decided to learn how to shoot it this year. Still room for improvement.

Looks good to me. Inside a minute of perp at 7 yards..
 
RE: Snap cap / Penny Dry Fire. Both SWLog (post 20) and RWSMITH (post 28) recommended balancing something on the top of the gun while dry-firing. I must be overlooking something very obvious, but how do you see the front site on a J-frame with something between the rear site and front site? Isn't sight alignment practice part of the dry-fire exercise?

The reason for balancing something on the barrel while pulling the trigger is for trigger control. Has nothing to do with the sights.
Using a penny is ok, but snap cap or a live round is better. It's top heavy and make it harder. It teaches you to not move the gun around while your pulling the trigger. If you practice at it yu can pull the trigger fairly fast and not have the obje t fall off.
My model 60 is very accurate. I was keeping good groups at 65 yards this
Past weekend with some 38+p and 357 140 grain hornadys.
 
and...

of all the above advise, grips that fit are really important. I use pac's on my 640 and S&W J bananas on my 642. I have another set of bananas I plan to modify to be able to use a speed loader with and when they are done they will go on my 640.
Also you might try rotating your weak/support hand as to point the thumb down.... it works for me.
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shooting the J frame

I totally agree with others that the grip is the key. I was ready to give up on my trusty 642, which wore boot grips for years; at age 70 and arthritic wrists, I no longer enjoyed shooting it. But after I installed these grips ( on suggestions from another thread on the forum), It completely changed the game. Now I can keep my old friend, and actually enjoy shooting a box of plinkers at the range:):)

 

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