460 xvr completely jammed

460harry

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I went to cock my 460 xvr in the deer stand the other afternoon at about 5:00 in anticipation of deer showing up, and the thing does not cock from single action. I tried to open the cylinder, but the thumb release is stuck and will not budge forward. The next day I bring it to the range to try and shoot it from double action, and the trigger is completely stuck.
So, the hammer will not cock from single action, the trigger will not pull from double action, the thumb release will not open the cylinder, and the cylinder will not budge. Usually if it's the ejector rod, I can budge the cylinder open, but not this time. Oh, and it is fully loaded with 300 grain xtps behind 40 grains of h110.
I would be very surprised if S&W took back loaded guns to work on. Do they? Otherwise I suppose I am going to have to find a gunsmith to figure this thing out. I open the side plate but do not see anything impeding any area of the action's process. Completely lost.

and it's not the lock, I tried that.
 
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Best bet is a local gunsmith. You don't want to be shipping that anywhere.
What is your general location? Maybe someone in your area will know where to take it.
 
I don’t think you’d be allowed to ship loaded revolver. Could it be loose ejector rod ? Can you push cylinder lock down with something thin and rotate the cylinder to try to tighten ejector rod ? If that doesn’t help I think local smith is only option.


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The ejector rods on X frames do not have a front lock or center pin like all the rest.

Maybe debris under ejector star holding case heads back, high primer of a bullet that jumped crimp against barrel extension. If held up to a light can you see between cylinder and barrel. Can you slip a .002 feel gauge there or between top case head and recoil shield?
 
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Is the hammer back on a chambered round? Can you get the side plate off?
 
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The ejector rods on X frames do not have a front lock or center pin like all the rest.

Maybe debris under ejector star holding case heads back, high primer of a bullet that jumped crimp against barrel extension. If held up to a light can you see between cylinder and barrel. Can you slip a .002 feel gauge there or between top case head and recoil shield?

Right, I forgot that XFrame locks in front of the cylinder.
 
The cylinder needs to rotate for the hammer to cock, either in SA or DA. The release could be all the way forward already, and may be why it will not go forward anymore. Check to make sure you cannot see anything interfering with the cylinder, like a high primer, a case backed out to the recoil shield or bullet that jumped crimp and now makes the round too long. Is the hand visible below the cylinder? Can you slide a narrow piece of metal like a feeler gauge along the back of the cylinder to imitate the release and allow the pin to move forward?
 
The crane can jump the retaining screw, loosen the screw push back on the crane then re-tighten the screw. It doesn't take very much movement to lock it up, I keep a small screwdriver in my range bag to check the screws during an outing.
 
I don’t think you’d be allowed to ship loaded revolver. Could it be loose ejector rod ? Can you push cylinder lock down with something thin and rotate the cylinder to try to tighten ejector rod ? If that doesn’t help I think local smith is only option.


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Handload/reload, but it can't be the primer because if I cock the hammer back and pull the trigger at the same time, they both give just barely enough for me to rotate the cylinder.
 
The ejector rods on X frames do not have a front lock or center pin like all the rest.

Maybe debris under ejector star holding case heads back, high primer of a bullet that jumped crimp against barrel extension. If held up to a light can you see between cylinder and barrel. Can you slip a .002 feel gauge there or between top case head and recoil shield?

Yeah, they're both clear.
 
The cylinder needs to rotate for the hammer to cock, either in SA or DA. The release could be all the way forward already, and may be why it will not go forward anymore. Check to make sure you cannot see anything interfering with the cylinder, like a high primer, a case backed out to the recoil shield or bullet that jumped crimp and now makes the round too long. Is the hand visible below the cylinder? Can you slide a narrow piece of metal like a feeler gauge along the back of the cylinder to imitate the release and allow the pin to move forward?

No primer interference. As before, I can pull the trigger and hammer back at the same time and get just enough space for the cylinder hand to depress and so I can then rotate the cylinder. I can spin it all day if I want. So it doesn't have anything to do with the cylinder itself apparently, I guess, unless the rod is extremely, extremely jammed, but I've had that before and it wasn't like this.

The release is in its normal position and will not budget forward, at all. I removed the hammer spring but because the hammer won't move, I can't disassemble the rest of the gun. I think I must take it to a smith.
 
I do not know if this may apply to your 460 but, I experienced a similar occurrence with my Mod 610. The cylinder bolt/catch stuck in the forward position and the revolver locked up.

A fiend of mine is a life long collector, shooter and "fixer" of S&W handguns. We loosened the cylinder release screw and removed the cylinder release. I could, with the assistance of a small, flat bladed screw driver, push the cylinder bolt/catch back far enough to unlock the cylinder.

It became apparent that something else was amiss. Off with the side plate and removal of all internal parts. The edges of the cylinder bolt/catch were rough and required stoning to insure smooth movement.

That cured the problem and there have been no further issues with this revolver. I hope your issue is resolved soon. There is little more frustrating to have a handgun that will not function properly.
 

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ALERT

I got a rubber gripped crescent wrench, hit it with mild force on the slide release a few times, and finally got the ******* cylinder open so I could unload it. Thank Jesus. When I go to close the cylinder, there is great resistance between the ejector star and the rear of the frame facing the hammer and release section. The problem must be there. The rod is 100% tightened btw. Will continue trouble shooting.
 
I would open or remove the cylinder and push the extractor back and clean well with an old toothbrush on the back of the extractor and it's recess in the cylinder. Often debris from the fired ammo will fall from the chambers onto the back of the extractor and become trapped. This holds the extractor back too far, making it hard to close the cylinder. It may be something else, but this is the first thing to look at.
 
If you feel competent I would suggest to disassemble the cylinder assembly and examine all the parts.
If you have the correct size screwdriver it is the screw over the trigger guard. If you do not have the correct screwdriver you could carefully dremel down a flathead to make it fit exactly. Its not much work to do that.
Pay attention to the center pin. It should freely move under spring pressure. Seems like something like a burr or bend is preventing it from moving. You can give it a good cleaning.
While you are at it, pull all the other screws off the sideplate, tap off the sideplate and inspect the action.

In my brand new 460pc I had intermittent trigger problems and came to find a ton of black dried glue like substance floating around the inner workings. No idea what it was or how it got into a brand new gun.
 
Sounds like a badly bent crane, ejector rod or both. You say you were able to spin the cylinder at will while still in the gun with some effort and manipulation. You had to beat the cylinder latch (not a slide release) forward to get the cylinder open, and now the cylinder won't close. The cylinder latch was jammed rearward by the ejector rod. That's the only reason it won't move forward unless blocked by a cocked hammer. Difficult closure can only mean a bent crane/ejector rod if the ejector star is down flush. Did the gun get dropped with cylinder either closed or open. That would do it if smacked on the cylinder. That is a heavy weapon.
 
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