Model 10 Durability & Parts

RacingSnake

RacingSnake

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I am looking for a revolver that will last a long time with use of standard pressure ammunition and which will be easy to repair if something goes wrong.

I am not in the US and qualified gun smiths (with revolver experience)are hard to find. If I have a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book and a supply of spare parts will the S&W model 10 be simple to maintain?

For a Model 10-6, which spare parts would you consider essential to keep the gun functioning in years to come after extensive use.

Thanks, Racingsnake
 
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I am looking for a revolver that will last a long time with use of standard pressure ammunition and which will be easy to repair if something goes wrong.

I am not in the US and qualified gun smiths (with revolver experience)are hard to find. If I have a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book and a supply of spare parts will the S&W model 10 be simple to maintain?

For a Model 10-6, which spare parts would you consider essential to keep the gun functioning in years to come after extensive use.

Thanks, Racingsnake
 
Hi, Racingsnake!

The S&W Model 10, as well as the entire range of models built on the J, K, L, and N frame are extremely durable and trouble-free. If you insist on keeping spare parts, the ones you need are a set (3) of sideplate screws, a hammer nose ("firing pin") and rivet. Even with these spare parts, it's extremely unlikely that you will ever use them.
 
Hi:
I purchased My Model 10 4" barrel with Square Butt Blued Finish in 1963. I have had negative problems with it. I have used nothing but Standard Veocity Ammo in it.
I am not a proponent of Plus-P Ammo. I from the school of "If you need/want more power go to a larger caliber".
Jimmy
 
I don't think you could ware it out. I know people that have put thousands of rounds through them and was not able to ware them out.
 
Thank you guys for your information - it's a revolver that inspires a lot of confidence. If it became necessary to replace a part such the bolt would it be possible for me to do so and reset the timing (using Kuhnhausen's book etc) or is it really something that needs to be attended to by a gunsmith?

Racingsnake
 
The only part I've ever had to replace on a S&W revolver is the thumbpiece (used to open the cylinder). I was new to firearms and I failed to ensure the screw was tight.

If I could only have one centerfire handgun, I think it would be my model 10.
icon_smile.gif
 
The model ten was the second hand ejector made. So since 1899 they have been around. If you get a model 10 no - thur 10-8 will give you a revolver for a life time. Even used parts will be around for the next fifty years, so if you are twenty your great grand son will be able to find parts for it. Heck they will be shooting ray-guns by then
icon_biggrin.gif
.
 
Is it possible for you to buy two? The chances of two going bad are about 1 in 1,000,000. Even if something went wrong, you could use one for spare parts.
 
The "worn out" Smiths I have bought in the past, Usually just a new hand or a cylinder stop and a good cleaning are all they needed.
Peter
 
For correcting the common issues of excessive endshake or slight failure-to-carry-up, amatuer gunsmithing is enough. A new M10 would require firing tens of thousands of rounds of factory standard velocity ammunition to get to the point where it might need some attention.

The one thing that will help assure continued trouble-free operation is to remove the extractor rod, cylinder release screw, and mainspring tension screws, and reinstall using a tiny dab of blue Locktite thread sealant. Loosening or loss of these screws and the sideplate screws and the extremely rare broken hammer nose striker are the only maintenance points in this design. For adjustable rear sight models, occasional loss of the rear sight is possible due to loosening of the forward retaining screw.
 
I have "a couple" of Vivas' M&Ps from the early 50s, and worked on others of the same vintage. Ditto the blue loctite. Otherwise it's just a matter of basic maintenance forever. I don't have any hammer noses or rivets but that's about the only thing I could imagine going out on these guns. Probably about the most trouble-free "machines " ever made.
 
Welcome to the best forum on the internet. A good condition model 10 will serve you well for years to come. Be sure to check for buggered screws and hammer pushoff.
 
i have had my model 10 snub since 1975...purchased new it was $90.00
icon_eek.gif

my son has it now....it has many rounds thru it..has been carried a lot...no issues,no repairs,nothing except cleaning...you will be pleased with your purchase...i certainly have been
 
The stainless version, Model 64, is even better. Far less rust issues, and if it gets scuffed, you can often polish it out.

Where do you live? Will a .38 suffice for all your needs?

How bad are the gun laws there?

T-Star
 
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