Just an Old Rookie, Trying to get good with a revolver the last few months, have a 4" 11 months and 6" M617 3 months, think I like the 6" the best if it will work smooth like the 4", sending the 6" back again to the factory tomorrow.. Long story, but I have been shooting around 15 types of ammo, mostly at 15-20 yard steel targets, most leads up the forcing cones, mainly at the top, Aguila 38 gr. CPHP was the worst-dirty. Federal and CCI 36 gr. CPHP was the best, not sure if the copper washed is running any cleaner than a lead round nose ? What is the best for Not Leading the forcing cones ? I need to find a small brass scraper to clean that lead off the upper part between the forcing cone and the frame.. thanks for any info..

The best .22 LR I've found for S&W .22 revolvers is also one of the cheapest, Federal Value Pack. For a cheap brass scraper just take a spent centerfire cartridge case either rifle or handgun calibre and flatten the open end with a hammer on a flat surface. Presto..
simple brass scraper.

Hope this helps,

Al

If that's the Federal Champion 36 gr. that's the best I have tried.. I only had a 38 sp. to try for that scraper, did not work very well, thanks, Clifford..

Sounds like the timing of your revolver may be off, and that may be causing the leading of your forcing cone. I don’t get leading in any of my forcing cones like that, regardless of the type, or brand of ammo. In my experience lead spattering like that is a timing issue.

That said, I get great results with CCI, and also Aguilla and Federal. The things with .22s is that,in terms of accuracy, different barrels tend to like different brands of ammo. You kind of have to experiment with different loads to see what shoots best in your gun. I tend to get universally good accuracy from CCI a standard velocity and Blazer. I also get great accuracy from Wolf Match Target, Eley (Tenex is really good), and Lapua, but it’s more expensive.

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NRA Life Member

dmar.. how do I check that timing problem ?

I have been shooting MiniMags in my K-22s for more than 50 years.
My first choice.
Best,
Gary

I use a squashed rifle brass (more to hold) and file the end so you have sharp 90 degree edges, that will scrape the lead better.

Had mine for a long long time........If says .22 and fits the cylinder I shoot it.

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S&W Accumulator

My 4 inch 617 leaded up pretty badly. I did the Wheeler Bore Lapping kit. I fires 20 with each grit. If I shoot CCI Mini Mag plated, I get no leading.

I’ve used the Wheeler kit 5 or6 times now; Mostly on Rugers. Some of those bores were rougher than a weekend in jail. I’d never bore lap a fine barrel. I cringe every time I do it; usually dire circumstances. But knock on wood. I’ve had good results every time thus far.

I'm not dmar but lotsa info in FAQ sticky of this forum's Smithing section.

FAQ

In all my S&W rimfires (model 34, 35, 17, etc.) I have found that the value pack of Federals work best. The bulk Remingtons have to be slightly pressed into the cylinders, whereas the Federals drop in almost every time. YMMV

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ken
SWCA #1959

I break clay pigeons at 50 yards with federal bulk pack... good enough for me.

Gun(s) that is(are) leading need(s) to go back to the mother ship for correction. Different ammo isn't going to correct the problem.

FWIW,

Paul

If you're serious about "best", get one box of at least five or six ammos (more is better), high velocity and standard velocity. Shoot groups from a rest at twenty-five yards. Yes, a lot of trouble, but you'll find what's best for your gun, not someone else's. I'd always include one box of CCI SV.

Did not know how to check the timing, watched a You Tube video, The timing is slow on the 617 4 inch, that maybe the leading issue around the forcing cone, Calling S&W tomorrow morning, It maybe going back to the factory..

Regarding ammo, for accuracy I almost invariably find some type of standard velocity ammo shoots the best.
Skip all the bulk pack garbage and high velocity stuff.

The most likely to give best accuracy will also almost invariably be something from Europe. SK lapua RWS or Eley.
Substantially more expensive than american made ammo but monumentally better quality control and consistency
Having said that while precision rifle shooters pretty much never use American made or any high velocity or copper plated ammo in match rifles, in pistols where accuracy expectations are less, the lower grades of European ammo like SK pistol match or standard plus, or eley club or target generally beat American made ammo of any type in the accuracy department, though shooting from a r3st might be required to see the difference and you may not be able to extract the extra accuracy potential when shooting offhand.
When I was shooting bullseye competition seriously, my scores with European ammo were about 5-7 points higher for a 300 point match than when using the best American made ammo ( CCI standard velocity)

I'm in 100% agreement with rockquarry, three posts up. I spend winters on the range testing .22 loads in my rifles, less so with pistols. But for me everything seems to like CCI-SV. Yeah the $20. stuff can tighted a group out of 24" match barrel by a 1/10"

But a revolver at 25 yards, does it matter in real life? So I stick with the SV. Buying by the case, 5,000 rounds, it comes out to $3.45 a box. Can't beat that.

I do occasionally buy the cheap bulk junk when it's on sale. That's a hedge against the next .22 shortage. That goes into long term storage. Otherwise it's used for rapid fire at combat distance.

I have had very good luck with CCI Standard Velocity in my 17-1. One of the few brands that does not give me much of a sticky chamber problem.

My 617 no dash likes Blazer best, and gets very little leading. I do keep the cylinder very clean though otherwise the cylinder is hard to open from crud under the extractor/ejector. have a 1 inch ultra-dot on top that allows hitting gophers to 60 plus yards using a window rest. One gun I'll never part with...

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GC45

With the hammer cocked (unloaded weapon of course) Ck for cylinder movement. It “should be locked pretty solid. If there’s movement/slopin the cylinder at full lock you’ve got a timing issue.

I stuff my 17-6 and 617s with any and all makes of 22 ammo. 99% of it goes bang, most is as accurate as I am. The Eley and Norma fodder is cleaner, 100% reliable, more accurate than I am, but you pay for it.

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213th FBINA

Eley is excellent 22lr ammo. But, I rarely use it . I'm a plinker and i mostly shoot CCI MiniMags in my 1954 K-22 Masterpiece.

Cci blazer shoots just as good as premium stuff, I even use it in our clubs competitions.

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Romans5:8

Best group so far is with CCI-SV but it will shoot just about anything. Blazers come next. For inexpensive ammo they are the true winner out of all of my guns, outshooting most of the expensive brands.

For continuously clean ammo I shoot Remington Bucket Of Bullets. I can run over 500 rounds through the gun without having to brush out the cylinder. It's very important if you plan on shooting a lot during your session.

I shoot Steel Challenge and it's vital to me not to have to clean the gun between stages. That's why I shoot BOB (Golden Bullets) at all matches.

Use any ammo you want so long as it is CCI standard velocity and not Remington Thunderbolts

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Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

I have several S&W 22 LR revolvers. All had chambering / leading problems. I bought the Brownell's finish revolver cylinder reamer and used it on every chamber, every cylinder. All ammo dropped into the chambers -- no more shoving with my thumb and no more barrel leading.

CCI Blazers give the best accuracy in all my 22 LR handguns and rifles. Most of everything else that is affordable is second place. I do not waste money on Premium Match 22 LR ammo at $6 + per box of 50 from any manufacturer.

Cylinder reaming is detailed in the Gun Smithing forum in great detail, including Brownell's part number.

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S&WHF 366