Just as an aside on this:

I have seen the "stressfire" smash-the-ejector-rod reload, that many teach. It's easy to find if you want to watch.

It seems like it would be especially hard on the cylinder stops of these revolvers, and the ejector rods on all of them.

I was taught a little differently, four decades (but not forty years! ) ago:

To unlock the cylinder using my right (shooting) hand with the cylinder release.

To grip and open the cylinder with my left (non-shooting) hand and point the gun vertically muzzle up.

To press and release the ejector rod with my left (non-shooting) thumb while VIOLENTLY plunging the gun downward and pulling it back up. Like your life depends on it. Like you're in a gunfight.

The ejector rod press doesn't require as much finesse to perform as it does to type. If you shake the gun hard enough, you'll release the rod naturally in the process.

This will clear the spent cases in almost every instance; especially in .38 Special. If you have to clear hangers, you do so. It's pretty rare.

There is almost no extra stress placed on the cylinder stop using this technique because you have a crush grip on the cylinder. The whole time your head is up, looking at the adversary, so you should be pretty motivated with clearing the empties.

This had nothing to do with cylinder stops. No one cared at the time. All the guns we used were steel. All the cylinder stops were press-in... (-at least I think that's how they did it) ...the round ones.

But, there you are. I still do it that way. Every time.

I still have the steel guns. But I prefer to carry the light ones, and they don't suffer at all.