Cylinder play, how much is normal?

PMRet

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Some of my revolvers lock up tight as a drum when cocked, while others have a little side to side play in the cylinder. I have noticed that this is true with NIB guns as well as used ones. How much play is normal? What effect does this have on function and accuracy? How can this play be eliminated?
 
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I am not into gunsmithing myself, but if you are you should get "The S&W Revolver, a Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen. It's available at Amazon, abebooks.com or most gun shows. It covers things like stop timing and end play. I don't think stop timing should require anything on your part unless the gun has been messed with after leaving the factory but, again, I'm not into gunsmithing. HTH.

Bob
 
I can't give you a quantitative answer but of the 9 or ten Smiths I own, some have a tiny bit of side play when cocked and only 3 of them have none; a 22/32, a M19 and a 29. None of the revolvers are poor shooters while the most accurate of the centerfires is a M28 which has noticeable rotational play and a bit of end shake. Go figure.
 
Of all the tolerances in a revolver, this one is the most easily noticed and obsessed over, along with the drag marks on the cylinder--and the least critical.

There are oversize stops available, but you may start to get skipping, which IS important.
Most of us who shoot revolvers in competition like the gun a little loose so that we can shoot 200 rounds or more of fast double action without the accumulating residue affecting reliability. If the entire gun is set up with minimum tolerances, the first bit of grit can stop it. Being on the loose side of tolerances does not seem to affect practical revolver accuracy at all, as long as it is not spitting.
 
Some of my revolvers lock up tight as a drum when cocked, while others have a little side to side play in the cylinder. I have noticed that this is true with NIB guns as well as used ones.
True, sadly many new SW guns do not lock up even PC guns.

How much play is normal?
I would say up to maybe .005" ballpark.

What effect does this have on function and accuracy?
Not a lot unless it's really excessive.

How can this play be eliminated?
Fit some new parts like a wider hand and maybe a wider cylinder stop.
 
Of all the tolerances in a revolver, this one is the most easily noticed and obsessed over, along with the drag marks on the cylinder--and the least critical.

There are oversize stops available, but you may start to get skipping, which IS important.
Another thing is, if you fit an oversized stop and get a tight lockup, it may not be aligned dead on the bore since the wider stop shifts the cylinder in only one direction. Some say a little play is actually good on newer guns which are not precisely fitted because it allows the bullet leaving the cylinder to "center up" as it enters the forcing cone by moving the cylinder a little bit. I tend to think a little play is good unless the action has been blue printed by a pro gunsmith.
 
It's my understanding that cylinder play in lockup is intentional. S&W's are designed that way. Colts were produced with "bank vault" lockup, and have kept a lot of gunsmiths in beans. Guns with a tight lockup often require extra maintenance, with no material payoff in accuracy.
 
It's my understanding that cylinder play in lockup is intentional. S&W's are designed that way. Colts were produced with "bank vault" lockup, and have kept a lot of gunsmiths in beans. Guns with a tight lockup often require extra maintenance, with no material payoff in accuracy.

Maybe, but if the gun is built correctly with no play, accuracy is greatly improved. Freedom Arms revolvers come to mind. My model 83 is bank vault tight, and easily the most accuarate handgun I've ever owned, and that has been quite a few. I find that it doesn't require any more maintainence than any of my Smiths, even though I was warned that it would, when I bought it. It will also remain more accurate over time due to the tight tolerances, and quality construction.
 
Thanks for all the information and opinion. I have always tried to pick revolvers with fairly tight lockup when buying face to face. When buying sight unseen (online, etc.) I always ask about timing and lockup, but sometimes get one with some play anyway even though the seller might say it locks up like Fort Knox. To be honest, I have never noticed a lot of difference in accuracy.
 
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